JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I'm getting pretty tired of researching here. Let me just see about putting a differential right behind the T56. Even if I have to stretch the car a little, it will be strong, cheap and reliable. Hell, the car may even look better if it's longer. I don't know. I'll try and make a picture of it.

I don't think the vette diff will fit. Has anyone seen a diff that has the axles close to the input shaft?

Or how can I get this connected to the trans as closely as possible?



They both have splined shafts, maybe a female/female adapter can be made?

Maybe there is a shorter rear housing for the t56?

Can the shifter be mounted more forward on the trans so that the vette tail housing can be used?

What other ways can the T56 be shortened?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Keisler Automotive Engineering offers a kit for a front mounted shifter location for $199.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Looks like the Caddy unit has above short tail housing.




From a Mustang GT 500

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

In studing a lot of pictures I'm starting to think the output, or main shaft, length is the same between the vette T56 and the f-body T56. If I can move the shifter forward then it might be possible to mate the vette tail housing and diff to my existing T56. That would certainly simplify things.

Do any T56 pros out there think it would work?

Thanks Camaroholic and Eroc!

Let me see what a C5 auto trans and rear end can be bought for. I know their roughly half tje cost of the manual combo. If it's cheap enough, I can swap the bellhousing and bolt it directly to my engine. All I really need to do is add a few wires and reflash the ECM for an automatic and voilà!
No shifter linkage to mess with. I can swap to a high stall converter or steeper gears later on when I have the money. I can even swap in the T56 as well if I feel like it. Hmmm, I'm going to think about it.

Has anyone seen paddle shifter kits for the 4l65e?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Here's a few pics of the preposed drivetrain with the auto trans.





I wonder if the regular 4L60E will bolt right up to the C5 rear? If so, then I could probably save some money. The front part would be ready to go, so all I'd need to buy would be the rear diff.

-

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

This setup is going in


this Corvair.


With engine cover.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I think this drivetrain picture is pretty close.


And here is the look of the car. A bit long, but not too bad. I may have to modify the roof shape a little.


Actually, I think the sharp rear angle is hurting a me a little. If I add a little bit of the stock bumper to push it out some, I can shorten up the main part of the body. Toss some big side scoops on it and it should look badass!

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I just found an amazing link of a guy building his own mid-engine car just like me! He's really starting from scratch whereas I have a few of the main pieces due to my donor car. He's using an LS1, auto trans and C5 differential just like I was thinking about. It's kind of eerie.

Here you go. Follow along as he builds it up.
3 ***** Racing

w3s1c0a5t

iTrader: (3)

Just noticed this thread man. The time and effort put forth is INSANE. Good luck with everything sir. Probable the coolest project i have seen.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Thanks.



You guys are not going to believe this next idea. You would think it was mine, but no, someone else thought of it.

It's a belt drive system that lets you attach a common diff to the back of a transmission and then move the axle centerline where ever you want. It can support 1000HP as well.

jfg455

iTrader: (5)

Why not use that system with a C5 trans/diff combo and it will shorten it even more.

deuce_454

i can sort of relate to the idea of running the belts with the C5 transaxle... but i cant for the life of me understand why the idea of mounting it transversly is so bad.. i mean why not install an engine/tranny from a MCSS or Impala ???? it would keep the price of the build at bay atleast....

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Very simple. It's a waste of money.

The only advantage to using an expensive C5 diff is to shorten the driveline by maybe 5"-7". If you use the belt drive system you can use the cheaper 8.8 IRS or anything cheap and strong.

I still haven't looked at the belt drive system yet.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Those transmissions run about 4 grand to build one up. So cost is the reason.
I've already explained this in detail.

deuce_454

a built t56 like "son of tranzilla" is up there too.. and the belted 8.8 IRS could mean some awefully short halfshafts.. but i guess the belts are the cheapest route.. especially considdering that you in theory could run dirt cheap th400 and a diy shortened 9 inch... im presonally biased towards running a porsche transaxle or getrag g50 though..

99345hp

with the belt drive system you dont even need a intependant rearend. Your 10 bolt should work to start out. The independant suspension is up where ever you put your axle centerline. I see motorcycle primaries in your future.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Why are you bringing up a built T56? The one I already own can handle 450hp.
Any rear diff using belts is going to mean fairly short axles. 8.8, 9", doesn't matter.
Why would I even consider a T400? Your just all over the place.
I'm also personally biased to an upside down Porsche G50. They are just hard to find and when you can find one, they are really expensive.

deuce_454

now now!! i think i answered a post quoting a price of "about 4 grand to build one up" and i simply tried to put that price into perspective... a bowler tranny and a pro-tourque converter arent cheap either.....

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Put it in perspective that I already have a perfectly good transmision that needs no beefing up, adapters or clutch. Consider those free.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

My current 10 bolt has a wore out LSD in it. Plus I've broke about 3 of them already. If I use those belts I can run pretty much any rearend that has a good LSD in it. The gear ratio won't matter as I can fine tune it by changing pulley sizes.