Main bearing clearance questions?
#42
TECH Apprentice
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wow this thread is full of hillarity.. DDNSPIDER at no point said that a forged crank wasn't better than stock.. LOL he was stating that for what the OP wanted it would be unnecessary money spent..
now you guys can take your i've done more research crap and throw it in the garbage.. you knock on how JOE BLOWS car made xxx on the interweb but its on its last legs i've done my research but then you quote research you got off of the internet..
lets take the research and kick it in the trash
I have personally made over 740 ftlbs of torque on the stock crank hell entirely stock bottom end in my own personal car.. i have personally had my hands on numerous other cars that have made well north of 700 ft lbs of torque on a stock crank.. MY personal truck went north of 550 ftlbs on a stock crank
so take your "research" and stick it right where the sun doesn't shine please.. I've learned with hands on knowledge.. if i tell you a parts weak its cause i've broke it my damn self and had to pay out of my own pocket and turn the wrench myself to fix the damn thing.. and unless the OP is running a damn F3r at 15lbs you recommending him to buy a forged rank is about as smart as my 1 year old neice trying to shove the square block in the round hole..
i've been doing this for far to long threads like this are why i quit trying to give good onfo on this board.. cause you'll chase your tail for hours and hours over the same useless BS..
WHite 97 you seem as though you have a decent amount of knowledge.. so heres my recomendation to you.. shut your trap.. continue on your quest for thousands of hours of internet research and learn something.. you are attacking a guy in ddnspider who has a forced induction car that has run for YEARS now with no maintnance.. thats unheard of.. and he built it on a budget.. THATS doing your damn research..
when you've done it your self feel free to post your EXPERIENCE thats what makes great information.. when you've read about it on the internet.. don;t repeat it.. you just took the blame for someone else's ignorance
Mike
now you guys can take your i've done more research crap and throw it in the garbage.. you knock on how JOE BLOWS car made xxx on the interweb but its on its last legs i've done my research but then you quote research you got off of the internet..
lets take the research and kick it in the trash
I have personally made over 740 ftlbs of torque on the stock crank hell entirely stock bottom end in my own personal car.. i have personally had my hands on numerous other cars that have made well north of 700 ft lbs of torque on a stock crank.. MY personal truck went north of 550 ftlbs on a stock crank
so take your "research" and stick it right where the sun doesn't shine please.. I've learned with hands on knowledge.. if i tell you a parts weak its cause i've broke it my damn self and had to pay out of my own pocket and turn the wrench myself to fix the damn thing.. and unless the OP is running a damn F3r at 15lbs you recommending him to buy a forged rank is about as smart as my 1 year old neice trying to shove the square block in the round hole..
i've been doing this for far to long threads like this are why i quit trying to give good onfo on this board.. cause you'll chase your tail for hours and hours over the same useless BS..
WHite 97 you seem as though you have a decent amount of knowledge.. so heres my recomendation to you.. shut your trap.. continue on your quest for thousands of hours of internet research and learn something.. you are attacking a guy in ddnspider who has a forced induction car that has run for YEARS now with no maintnance.. thats unheard of.. and he built it on a budget.. THATS doing your damn research..
when you've done it your self feel free to post your EXPERIENCE thats what makes great information.. when you've read about it on the internet.. don;t repeat it.. you just took the blame for someone else's ignorance
Mike
#43
9 Second Club
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Your a hilarious little troll you know that.Whose cars been on the cover of a book?who has stickys on this site?Who will be in a magazine soon?You should be banned just for your stupidity.How about this, do a search on this site and find me 1/2 a dozen cars whove broken the stock LS1 car crankshaft specifically due to a crankshaft failure.Dont go posting crap like the balancer bolt wasnt on tight enough or the bearings wore/spun due to debree in the engine or other stupid stuff.Link threads that honestly show the ls1 crankshaft snapping in 2 or breaking, THEN you have a leg to stand on(albeit a peg leg).
this guy started this thread because he was out to save some money, and as i stated above i was looking out for the durability of his engine. Not to state that you can hold 1000 hp on a stock crank just because a guy with unlimited funds did it. If this guy is driving is car everyday, then dont he need something that he KNOWS will hold up? i know i sure would. But as this goes on and on, in the end the guy will probably do what he wants anyway. no matter how we bitch and fuss about it.
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Last edited by CodeRed2000SS; 01-22-2009 at 10:34 PM.
#44
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
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CodeRed2000SS....thanks for proving my point
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#45
TECH Apprentice
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[QUOTE=ddnspider;10917942]It doesnt matter what parts you put in the car, if youre detonating the crap out of the motor, NO MOTOR will hold together indefinitely.The argument in question is "what will hold together when someone cant tune". The argument is assuming the car is run correctly, can you run a stock ls1 crankshaft.You've only proved that you associate with people who do not know how to tune a car.
Ok evidently i havent gone into enough detail about this whole situation. So i guess ill have to compare what a nodular iron or all iron cranks Vs forged steel cranks actually do, for you. Bare with me here. Ill start off by giving you a idea of what their tensil strength is. Granted these numbers prolly werent actually tested on a crankshaft but is still a comparison by the material they are made of. Cast iron < 85,000 PSI, nodular iron < 95,000, cast steel < 115,000, (4340 forged steel < 155,000). What alot of people dont know is cast cranks just dont have the elasticity that a forged steel crank offers. Therefore limiting the amount of power that can be made reliably. Not sayin that at a givin power level cast will just haul off and fail. What im sayin is it will cause other failures related to it over a period of time. Let me give you an example: say you took a in this case a nodular iron crank and put it in a press with a dail indicator on it. Then you deformed it by .020 held it there for 10 seconds and released it and recorded the results. Then do the same thing with a forged steel crank. I promise you 9.9 out of ten times the forged will come much closer to returning back to zero. Ok with that said, if cast is known for flexing and moving around that much, then exactly what do you think will happen to your bearings, and timing chain? Thats right they will fail over a shorter period of time as compared to their lifespan with a forged steel piece. Thats why i said in the last post that the crank was bent and the bearings were shot. I did fail to mention that the timing chain was insanely sloppy,in my last post. Granted the detonation didnt help matters, but i have good reason to believe that overtime the cast crank wont take the beating from loads of torque even if the engine is spot on. And no im not sayin if you have a stock crank and making 700 hp that its gonna break at anygiven moment. Thats not remotely close to my point. If you were to build 2 engines that would make 650 Hp, both the same other than the crank and made a series of a hundred pulls on an engine dyno from 2500 to 6500 rpm and tore them completely down and inspected both, i think you would be shocked at the amount of wear increase that the cast crank induced in the whole shortblock assm. And NO ONE said one thing about an indefinite motor but you. I believe i stated before that anything with a beginning has a ending. Im not in this to win a pissing contest. Im just trying to provide you with the facts. Hopefully ive explained this well enough for most to grasp the concept.
Ok evidently i havent gone into enough detail about this whole situation. So i guess ill have to compare what a nodular iron or all iron cranks Vs forged steel cranks actually do, for you. Bare with me here. Ill start off by giving you a idea of what their tensil strength is. Granted these numbers prolly werent actually tested on a crankshaft but is still a comparison by the material they are made of. Cast iron < 85,000 PSI, nodular iron < 95,000, cast steel < 115,000, (4340 forged steel < 155,000). What alot of people dont know is cast cranks just dont have the elasticity that a forged steel crank offers. Therefore limiting the amount of power that can be made reliably. Not sayin that at a givin power level cast will just haul off and fail. What im sayin is it will cause other failures related to it over a period of time. Let me give you an example: say you took a in this case a nodular iron crank and put it in a press with a dail indicator on it. Then you deformed it by .020 held it there for 10 seconds and released it and recorded the results. Then do the same thing with a forged steel crank. I promise you 9.9 out of ten times the forged will come much closer to returning back to zero. Ok with that said, if cast is known for flexing and moving around that much, then exactly what do you think will happen to your bearings, and timing chain? Thats right they will fail over a shorter period of time as compared to their lifespan with a forged steel piece. Thats why i said in the last post that the crank was bent and the bearings were shot. I did fail to mention that the timing chain was insanely sloppy,in my last post. Granted the detonation didnt help matters, but i have good reason to believe that overtime the cast crank wont take the beating from loads of torque even if the engine is spot on. And no im not sayin if you have a stock crank and making 700 hp that its gonna break at anygiven moment. Thats not remotely close to my point. If you were to build 2 engines that would make 650 Hp, both the same other than the crank and made a series of a hundred pulls on an engine dyno from 2500 to 6500 rpm and tore them completely down and inspected both, i think you would be shocked at the amount of wear increase that the cast crank induced in the whole shortblock assm. And NO ONE said one thing about an indefinite motor but you. I believe i stated before that anything with a beginning has a ending. Im not in this to win a pissing contest. Im just trying to provide you with the facts. Hopefully ive explained this well enough for most to grasp the concept.
#48
Race your car!
iTrader: (50)
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Having been around these cars enough, the stock crank is a capable piece that can support a good amount of power. I think it will support about as much RPM as a stock ignition system will, and as much as a 4 bolt setup will.
That being said, if you don't need 6 bolt heads to keep the heads down, and if you don't need an aftermarket computer/distributor type setup becuse of the RPM that the car turns, you probably can run the stock crank with no problems, unless you need the stroke to get the cubic inches in that case the aftermarket cranks are a better bet.
Could a 7500 rpm n/a motor make more power with a lighter knife-edged crank, I'm 100% sure that it can, is it worth the $, depends on what you're trying to do. If you're after a stock CI record of some sort, or are running an nhra class that requires stock CI or the like, yes it's probably worth it.
For a street setup that's gonna make 700 hp and you're gonna run a supercharger, turbo or nitrous where there's no rules how you get to the power #, then no I wouldn't bother I'd use a stock crank in that and not be too concerned about it.
Again, anything that you are gonna drive around probably doesn't need 6 bolt heads to keep them down, and probably doesn't need 10,000 rpm potential.
That being said, if you don't need 6 bolt heads to keep the heads down, and if you don't need an aftermarket computer/distributor type setup becuse of the RPM that the car turns, you probably can run the stock crank with no problems, unless you need the stroke to get the cubic inches in that case the aftermarket cranks are a better bet.
Could a 7500 rpm n/a motor make more power with a lighter knife-edged crank, I'm 100% sure that it can, is it worth the $, depends on what you're trying to do. If you're after a stock CI record of some sort, or are running an nhra class that requires stock CI or the like, yes it's probably worth it.
For a street setup that's gonna make 700 hp and you're gonna run a supercharger, turbo or nitrous where there's no rules how you get to the power #, then no I wouldn't bother I'd use a stock crank in that and not be too concerned about it.
Again, anything that you are gonna drive around probably doesn't need 6 bolt heads to keep them down, and probably doesn't need 10,000 rpm potential.
#52
#53
TECH Apprentice
#54
TECH Apprentice
#56
9 Second Club
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It doesnt matter what parts you put in the car, if youre detonating the crap out of the motor, NO MOTOR will hold together indefinitely.The argument in question is "what will hold together when someone cant tune". The argument is assuming the car is run correctly, can you run a stock ls1 crankshaft.You've only proved that you associate with people who do not know how to tune a car.
CodeRed2000SS....thanks for proving my point![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
CodeRed2000SS....thanks for proving my point
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#58
TECH Apprentice
#60
9 Second Club
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who said my other motor was blown up? i dont remember saying anything about that. My motor that came out of my car is sitting in the floor of my shop right now. Show me where i said that
9.95 with a crappy 1.47 60', hmm i wonder if your piece of **** can do that and drive home witht he a/c blowing.... OH WAIT A MINUTE i forgot, your car is from florida, where real street cars race in the street. Im sorry your majesty.
ddnspider u are a real jackass. you sit up here and think u know everything there is to know about these cars cause you READ IT. Honestly, i dont give a damn what you know or what you have read. Im pretty sure you have NEVER turned a wrench on your own car. You just go out and pay somebody to do it for you. Therefore I am WAY out of your league.
Now im not saying that i have never learned anything on this site, because I have. LS1TECH has taught me alot. But I also learn things form outside of the internet. (from being around cars all my life)
But go on with your STOCK FORGED 383 crank and tell everyone on this site about how good a stock one is. When you dont have one in your OWN car.
P.S. Im pretty sure these two guys from NC, can take this blue car and DRAG YOUR *** all the way down the 1/4. (With the a/c blowin'.....)
9.95 with a crappy 1.47 60', hmm i wonder if your piece of **** can do that and drive home witht he a/c blowing.... OH WAIT A MINUTE i forgot, your car is from florida, where real street cars race in the street. Im sorry your majesty.
ddnspider u are a real jackass. you sit up here and think u know everything there is to know about these cars cause you READ IT. Honestly, i dont give a damn what you know or what you have read. Im pretty sure you have NEVER turned a wrench on your own car. You just go out and pay somebody to do it for you. Therefore I am WAY out of your league.
Now im not saying that i have never learned anything on this site, because I have. LS1TECH has taught me alot. But I also learn things form outside of the internet. (from being around cars all my life)
But go on with your STOCK FORGED 383 crank and tell everyone on this site about how good a stock one is. When you dont have one in your OWN car.
P.S. Im pretty sure these two guys from NC, can take this blue car and DRAG YOUR *** all the way down the 1/4. (With the a/c blowin'.....)