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Wheel machining help please.

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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Default Wheel machining help please.

Hello. I just built a 9" for my car and ordered the 5/8 wheel stud package thinking I would get the fully threaded studs and I could use a normal 60° seat lugnut. Instead I recieved the shoulder stud with the big spacers and nuts which I am happy with but have to have my wheels machined to accept those spacers.
I was wondering if anyone had any ecperience with something like this.
I just want to purchase some sort of arbor 1 1/4" or 1 5/16" to macine my own flat seats seeing every machine shop around here wont touch it cause there scared.
Can some one please help me.
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Oldsmobility85
Hello. I just built a 9" for my car and ordered the 5/8 wheel stud package thinking I would get the fully threaded studs and I could use a normal 60° seat lugnut. Instead I recieved the shoulder stud with the big spacers and nuts which I am happy with but have to have my wheels machined to accept those spacers.
I was wondering if anyone had any ecperience with something like this.
I just want to purchase some sort of arbor 1 1/4" or 1 5/16" to macine my own flat seats seeing every machine shop around here wont touch it cause there scared.
Can some one please help me.
What is the application that you need 5/8 studs?

Aluminum or steel wheels? What holes and seats are currently in the wheels?

Hub-centric wheels?

More information will help folks answer your questions.



Jon
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:34 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I am drag racing the car. Makes roughly 800hp so I went with the 5/8" studs.

The wheels are aluminum and have the 60* acorn seats in them for standard lug nuts. I wasn't expecting to get the 11/16 shoulder style race bolts instead I was expecting the full threaded 5/8 studs which you can get a 60* lug nut for.

I machined my wheels myself today seeing no machine shop would touch them.

I took a long 5/8 shoulder bolt and cut the head and threads off from the shoulder piece. Then I drilled through the shoulder lengthwise on a drill press with a 11/32" bit. Which is standard sbc valve stem diameter.
Then I took a nice square block of wood I found and drilled a 5/8 hole in it and put my bolt shoulder in it sticking up. I placed the wheel one lug hole at the time over the bolt shoulder which is being used to serve as a pilot.
Then I rented a 1 1/2 inch valve spring seat cutter and a 11/32" arbor from the local machine shop. I carefully place all this together in a drill press and drove the seat cutter into the aluminum making a perfect circle until it became perfectly level with the original lug nut seats.

I did all ten holes with not problems and it looks professional.
I'm very happy with it.
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Old May 4, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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