Things they dont tell you about building a stroker..
#61
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
Ok guys..here is last nights saga.
ARP is sending me a new nut...and free too...yeah
SLPs Timing set instructions suck...keyways to the left of standard are advance and keyways to the right are retard..dont use standard dot when using non-standard keyway...who the hell writes that ****? ever hear of clockwise or direction of crank rotation?
Cam was supposed to come in at 110 dot to dot...mine came in at 106 after doing it twenty times...242/250 .595/.595 109...Piston to valve was .165 exhaust closest.
Try degreeing a cam with new hydraulic lifters....you know what im talking about..
Dial indicator doesnt like staying on the damn comp 1.75 rocker...pushrod hole on top moves it all around...it was a bitch to set up.
There is not an easy way to turn over an LS1...just flywheel bolts in the crank sucks..what do you guys do.
ARP is sending me a new nut...and free too...yeah
SLPs Timing set instructions suck...keyways to the left of standard are advance and keyways to the right are retard..dont use standard dot when using non-standard keyway...who the hell writes that ****? ever hear of clockwise or direction of crank rotation?
Cam was supposed to come in at 110 dot to dot...mine came in at 106 after doing it twenty times...242/250 .595/.595 109...Piston to valve was .165 exhaust closest.
Try degreeing a cam with new hydraulic lifters....you know what im talking about..
Dial indicator doesnt like staying on the damn comp 1.75 rocker...pushrod hole on top moves it all around...it was a bitch to set up.
There is not an easy way to turn over an LS1...just flywheel bolts in the crank sucks..what do you guys do.
Didn't see the specs on your cam above? You assuredly already know this, if the LSA on the cam is 114 +4 then yea, it should have come in 110 IC. Sure you don't have a 110 +4 LSA that should have been 106 IC?
Here's a good one, I bought Comps degree kit, watched the videos and started to do mine. Ended up on the camhelp line with two guys for an hour before we figured out that the SBC shown in the video had the intake port forward, and that I had been trying to degree in the cam on the exhaust port, d'oh! We kept thinking about I was 90deg off on something but it never added up. I probably spent 4 hours trying before I called them.
I rotated the crank the hardway, and due to the fact that I was so worried about messing something up, I probably ended up rotating the crank 300+ full turns. Good workout! If I ever had to be a mechanic for a living I would have no hands/knuckles left.
Getting the dial setup was a major pain, getting the caliper set right on the lifter was precarious. I did multiple reads on each setting to test for variances.
I couldnt get a straight answer as to whether the lifters should be preloaded or not when adjusting to zero lash. I have the comp PM 1.85s. I did them unloaded and the car really sounded like crap, definately should have done them preloaded. (Thanks to Dennis at The Vette Doctors for schooling me on that one).
I guess I got lucky using the Rollmaster Doube Roller timing set. It came with spacers for the oil pump which worked perfectly. Had to pull the damn crank gear off a good 10-12 times to get it dialed in right. You're right the instructions read freakin wierd, in the end the presence of a single comma in a sentence (where it shouldn't have been) caused me to keep reading the instructions wrong! Everyone said I would probably have to machine the back of the ASP UD pulley, but it all fit perfect.
Used cometics also. Does take a little effort to make sure when you put them on, but other than that, they are hard to beat. I probably spent an hour trying them in different positions to make sure. Nice that I had two months to do all this in! Couldnt imagine trying to make a living at it.
So did you take your hood off, or leave it on? man what a mistake that was!
Well you have to agree the educational aspect of it all is good, and if I ever go a second round it'll be easier. But all in all, if I had the money, I"d gladly pay a pro to do the next one!
Good luck and let us know how it turns out!:thumbs:
#62
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Dallas, North Mexico
Posts: 1,842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
57 sounds way too high. Last turbo car i worked on was 750hp with some extra room fo boost on 40psi. i think we used 45 or 50. for 600 on 43 psi- 42lb injectors should be good.
80% duty cycle is the magic number. do the math, i'm lazy. bigger isn't better
80% duty cycle is the magic number. do the math, i'm lazy. bigger isn't better
#63
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: harrisburg, pa
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cam card doesnt say anything...just 109
BTW guys...this thread started over a year and a half ago...car is running fine still..had a little wire harness glitch but that is all fixed up.
BTW guys...this thread started over a year and a half ago...car is running fine still..had a little wire harness glitch but that is all fixed up.
#64
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
After seeing all the problems, I am having a 383 stroker built and have a few questions. i am putting in an Eagle Crank, Eagle forged rods, JE pistons, LSX 90mm Intake & Throttle body, and want to run a 150 shot.
What size injectors do I need and size fuel pump? Will i need a fuel regulator? And who do you recommend for the tuning? What size Cam for a still streetable car?
2000 Z-28
SLP Headers, Cut-out, K&N FIPK, 160 T-Stat, 3500 TCI, 342 Gears
1/8 mi. 7.76 @ 86 mph
What size injectors do I need and size fuel pump? Will i need a fuel regulator? And who do you recommend for the tuning? What size Cam for a still streetable car?
2000 Z-28
SLP Headers, Cut-out, K&N FIPK, 160 T-Stat, 3500 TCI, 342 Gears
1/8 mi. 7.76 @ 86 mph
#67
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: harrisburg, pa
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by 5150-Z28
After seeing all the problems, I am having a 383 stroker built and have a few questions. i am putting in an Eagle Crank, Eagle forged rods, JE pistons, LSX 90mm Intake & Throttle body, and want to run a 150 shot.
What size injectors do I need and size fuel pump? Will i need a fuel regulator? And who do you recommend for the tuning? What size Cam for a still streetable car?
2000 Z-28
SLP Headers, Cut-out, K&N FIPK, 160 T-Stat, 3500 TCI, 342 Gears
1/8 mi. 7.76 @ 86 mph
What size injectors do I need and size fuel pump? Will i need a fuel regulator? And who do you recommend for the tuning? What size Cam for a still streetable car?
2000 Z-28
SLP Headers, Cut-out, K&N FIPK, 160 T-Stat, 3500 TCI, 342 Gears
1/8 mi. 7.76 @ 86 mph
I'll see if I can get a clip of the 109...snowed in here right now...but it feakin rumbles...I did it for the sound.
#69
Staging Lane
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by stealth
If "they" told you "everything" in advance, no one ever build a high horsepower motor or car. The pain and suffering is just too great.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
Yeah, but it is so worth it when it's in there and your kicking @$$ and taking names.....
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
#70
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
Cam card doesnt say anything...just 109
BTW guys...this thread started over a year and a half ago...car is running fine still..had a little wire harness glitch but that is all fixed up.
BTW guys...this thread started over a year and a half ago...car is running fine still..had a little wire harness glitch but that is all fixed up.
#71
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Originally Posted by DrkPhx
I will one add thing I didn't see mentioned in this thread that is a critical factor when assembling a stroker.
You must shim the windage tray so the rotating assembly can clear; otherwise it will nick the inside bottom of the tray.
You must shim the windage tray so the rotating assembly can clear; otherwise it will nick the inside bottom of the tray.