Correct timing at idle, normal driving and WOT determination.
My question is a simple one ( I think) for the experienced guys out there. I would like to know how the OPTIMAL timing at idle and under normal driving conditions can be determined without raising timing until you get knock? My 98 knock sensors are crap and I have had to desensitize them in order get rid of most of the (false) KR that I was detecting. Please don't speculate as to whether I had real or false knock as it was certainly false and stick to the question of determining OPTIMAL timing. I know that OPTIMAL WOT timing can be seen on a dyno based on HP/TRQ output but not idle and normal driving timing.
THanks!
This is why many tuners will set your closed TPS tables (idle timing tables) at 22 degrees. This will give you plenty of headroom (in spark advance) to raise rpm with additional timing. Working with your idle underspeed and overspeed timing tables will also help keep the idle stable.
Once your throttle goes beyond 0% TPS, you go from your closed TPS tables to your main spark tables. You will probably want your low-load timing tables in the 28-32 degree range up to 1200 rpm, then gradually going up to the high 30s to even the mid 40s at higher rpm. But since the table is a sliding scale, your timing will be reduced as your load increases. This will keep you out of detonation. The stock timing tables are actually a great place to start.

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Of course the best way is on an engine dyno. There, you just swing timing at a constant RPM and MAP, and see what minimum timing gives most torque (within 1% or so). There's a bell shaped curve of torque vs timing if it doesn't hit knock, and you'll want to be on the less timing side of the curve, near the peak torque.
Idle: just do what they've suggested above. Use enough to smooth out the engine, and use little enough to mabye raise the idle MAP 3-5 kPa over minimum MAP achievable. Blend it into the normal driving areas. Use a little more timing in the MAP areas higher than idle MAP, to help it compensate for applied loads a little better, but keep things gradual and well blended.
At very light load, in the negative torque region, use less timing. Peak the timing at about 50 kPa for smoother drivability (reduces the jerk when exiting fuel cutoff).
It's probably fine to base the part load stuff off of a stock table, but with a bigger cam, you'll probably need a little more timing in the low RPMs. WOT should be done on a dyno.




