what allows an engine to spin to 8,000+ rpms, and stay together for a long time
12-25-2006, 09:58 PM
#61
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High RPM and Long life If it were me I would deffinately use that new Cast Iron LSX block.
I hate it when things move around. You need to ask yourself why GM come out with that block. It was for guys like you - think about it.
And I'd use the same rods that allow the Cup cars to spend hours at the RPM you'r looking for. You can get them from Carrillo with 1.88 inch journals and 6.2 inches long. They were originaly made for Olds Quad 4 engines. The small journals reduce the surface speed of the bearings and allow you to keep them lubricated. I would also have the crank, rods, and pistons cryo treated, it's very cheep insurance. Also seriously consider a dry sump with three scavengers and an external pressure pump along with a 12 quart or larger oil tank. You need to be using nice clean air bubble free oil to lubricate and cool your engire not foam that's 1/3 oil and the rest air.
Then do what every one else is telling you.
Regards
Pete
I hate it when things move around. You need to ask yourself why GM come out with that block. It was for guys like you - think about it.
And I'd use the same rods that allow the Cup cars to spend hours at the RPM you'r looking for. You can get them from Carrillo with 1.88 inch journals and 6.2 inches long. They were originaly made for Olds Quad 4 engines. The small journals reduce the surface speed of the bearings and allow you to keep them lubricated. I would also have the crank, rods, and pistons cryo treated, it's very cheep insurance. Also seriously consider a dry sump with three scavengers and an external pressure pump along with a 12 quart or larger oil tank. You need to be using nice clean air bubble free oil to lubricate and cool your engire not foam that's 1/3 oil and the rest air.
Then do what every one else is telling you.
Regards
Pete
12-26-2006, 05:27 AM
#62
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I'm going with a 4.155 bore and 4.0 stroke in my build. We're using the LSX block for strength and the better oiling system. We'll spin it to right about 7000, and we're using the lightweight Callies Magnum XL crank, Carrillo rods, and custom JE pistons. We're still talking about valvetrain... I really want to keep it hydraulic roller if I can. As long as it's run properly (timing, afr, etc) it should see years of use without problems. With a progressive system, you could spray a similar motor (higher comp than mine) to 1400hp (I'm not a nitrous junkie so I'm not sure how big of jets they sell, but all the parts are rated at these levels and above) and never have to pass 7k rpm. When you find a way to hook 1400hp during your highway rolls, come back and we can talk more about upping the ante (higher rpm). 
12-26-2006, 02:06 PM
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just thought I'd throw this out there, big N2O shots don't seem work at high rpm. I've seen dyno results in which the overall HP peak occurs lower and lower as the shot size increases.
12-27-2006, 11:19 PM
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Is there a reason why you are saying no FI?
Cause I can show you a vid of a Strokd Vette on a 300 shot getting YANKED HARD by a TT 03 Cobra. (I had an 660rwhp 03 Cobra before my Vette.)
If your going to run highway go with a full blown turbo setup cause I guarantee you get walked hard by some turbo cars up top. JMO
Zach
Cause I can show you a vid of a Strokd Vette on a 300 shot getting YANKED HARD by a TT 03 Cobra. (I had an 660rwhp 03 Cobra before my Vette.)
If your going to run highway go with a full blown turbo setup cause I guarantee you get walked hard by some turbo cars up top. JMO
Zach
12-27-2006, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickin
Nate,
I guess I just need to have another badass stroker engine built and spray it and it'll be just fine.
The builder I'm using built my friend in West Palm a 422ci (535 RWHP, N/A), 3 1/2 years ago that he's been spraying a 300 shot (850 RWHP) for the past year and the engine is still perfect. All he does is roll races and he kills everything he races.
.
I guess I just need to have another badass stroker engine built and spray it and it'll be just fine.
The builder I'm using built my friend in West Palm a 422ci (535 RWHP, N/A), 3 1/2 years ago that he's been spraying a 300 shot (850 RWHP) for the past year and the engine is still perfect. All he does is roll races and he kills everything he races.
.
12-28-2006, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Zee916
Then you have some slow cars in your area cause 850 is not getting it done around here if your going to be King of the Hill.
Come on down to Miami and Lauderdale with your cars and race the 1,000+ RWHP cars and you'll see what "slow" is.
.
12-28-2006, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 280Z28
I'm going with a 4.155 bore and 4.0 stroke in my build. We're using the LSX block for strength and the better oiling system. We'll spin it to right about 7000, and we're using the lightweight Callies Magnum XL crank, Carrillo rods, and custom JE pistons. We're still talking about valvetrain... I really want to keep it hydraulic roller if I can. As long as it's run properly (timing, afr, etc) it should see years of use without problems. With a progressive system, you could spray a similar motor (higher comp than mine) to 1400hp (I'm not a nitrous junkie so I'm not sure how big of jets they sell, but all the parts are rated at these levels and above) and never have to pass 7k rpm. When you find a way to hook 1400hp during your highway rolls, come back and we can talk more about upping the ante (higher rpm).
And YES, I will let you know how it is to hook 1,400 hp, just add 400 to that and you'll see what I'll be hooking from a roll. One thing for ya......NRE.
See ya.
.
12-28-2006, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickin
Thats my friends daily driver, he doesn't live in south Florida. He races people whenever the event arises and he kicks peoples ***.
Come on down to Miami and Lauderdale with your cars and race the 1,000+ RWHP cars and you'll see what "slow" is.
.
Come on down to Miami and Lauderdale with your cars and race the 1,000+ RWHP cars and you'll see what "slow" is.
.
01-01-2007, 10:13 PM
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Lol....no offense (even though you should be)...but I cant stand people that just write checks and talk big about "hey i need 1400hp in my daily driver, can I spin 9000 rpm???"
If you have to ask, you probably dont have any business trying to build it. Its just sad that people know very little to nothing about cars, couldnt probably change the cam in their car and write huge checks for their 450+ cube 1000hp+ street cars and talk like they are in the know.
There should be a test to own a fast car, where you have to know how to use a jackstand and maybe how to using a timing light at minimum lol...
Ok my rant is over
If you have to ask, you probably dont have any business trying to build it. Its just sad that people know very little to nothing about cars, couldnt probably change the cam in their car and write huge checks for their 450+ cube 1000hp+ street cars and talk like they are in the know.
There should be a test to own a fast car, where you have to know how to use a jackstand and maybe how to using a timing light at minimum lol...
Ok my rant is over
01-01-2007, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by motorbuilt
Lol....no offense (even though you should be)...but I cant stand people that just write checks and talk big about "hey i need 1400hp in my daily driver, can I spin 9000 rpm???"
If you have to ask, you probably dont have any business trying to build it. Its just sad that people know very little to nothing about cars, couldnt probably change the cam in their car and write huge checks for their 450+ cube 1000hp+ street cars and talk like they are in the know.
There should be a test to own a fast car, where you have to know how to use a jackstand and maybe how to using a timing light at minimum lol...
Ok my rant is over
If you have to ask, you probably dont have any business trying to build it. Its just sad that people know very little to nothing about cars, couldnt probably change the cam in their car and write huge checks for their 450+ cube 1000hp+ street cars and talk like they are in the know.
There should be a test to own a fast car, where you have to know how to use a jackstand and maybe how to using a timing light at minimum lol...
Ok my rant is over
who cares? Do I need to know how my computer works in order to buy one?
01-02-2007, 12:03 AM
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But motorbuilt, its those same people that provide us with endless entertainment of their opinions and labors, good or bad.
hell, SBC's can turn 9 if blueprinted and balanced, wouldn't wanna use it for enduro-racing and daily driver.
You cannot defeat stress. Bigger the stroke, the more problems. I consistently remember F1 engines, and some of the 60/70/80's Porsche enginers. Tiny stroke, huge bore, wicked rpm's.
Theres far better options with a properly engineered sub 6K rpm monster with proper gearing.
hell, SBC's can turn 9 if blueprinted and balanced, wouldn't wanna use it for enduro-racing and daily driver.
You cannot defeat stress. Bigger the stroke, the more problems. I consistently remember F1 engines, and some of the 60/70/80's Porsche enginers. Tiny stroke, huge bore, wicked rpm's.
Theres far better options with a properly engineered sub 6K rpm monster with proper gearing.
Last edited by OKcruising; 01-02-2007 at 12:17 AM.
01-02-2007, 04:07 PM
#74
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throw the stroke at it, the shortblock doesnt give a **** about the rpm near as much as the valvetrain will. solid roller and some good springs like PSI and Ti retainers.
also dont skimp on pushrods. talk to manton and get the biggest ones you can in there. saving weight on a pushrod makes about as much sense as drilling holes in your oil pan to save weight.
spend the loot on the valvetrain. rev kits, hydraulic lifters, and the like is just shooting yourself in the foot. get jesel rockers, psi springs, manton pushrods, etc. look at the manufacturers nascar uses. they use them for a reason.
also dont skimp on pushrods. talk to manton and get the biggest ones you can in there. saving weight on a pushrod makes about as much sense as drilling holes in your oil pan to save weight.
spend the loot on the valvetrain. rev kits, hydraulic lifters, and the like is just shooting yourself in the foot. get jesel rockers, psi springs, manton pushrods, etc. look at the manufacturers nascar uses. they use them for a reason.
01-03-2007, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by V6 Bird
Sorry...I dont take my camera with me when I go to the shop...THey do a lot of Nascar R&D and that stuff isnt to be leaked out. Ill see if he willbring the rev kit home away from the shop to take pics of.
I havent forgot about you guys. Im going up there Friday to watch the LS1 with this rev kit on it dyno...Ill try to get the pics before he buttons it up completely.
01-03-2007, 08:51 PM
#77
Originally Posted by Quickin
Probably my last post here, at least for a long time. My set-up has been decided, its on paper, and its a decision made from all the posts and threads I've started. No need for any more. Just be checking PM's from now on from certain people.
And YES, I will let you know how it is to hook 1,400 hp, just add 400 to that and you'll see what I'll be hooking from a roll. One thing for ya......NRE.
See ya.
.
And YES, I will let you know how it is to hook 1,400 hp, just add 400 to that and you'll see what I'll be hooking from a roll. One thing for ya......NRE.
See ya.
.
01-05-2007, 10:33 PM
#78
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Originally Posted by NoMoreFWD
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...k/HPIM0624.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...k/HPIM0622.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...k/HPIM0621.jpg
Rockers that will be used with it.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...k/HPIM0627.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...k/HPIM0626.jpg
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...k/HPIM0625.jpg
Enjoy folks.
01-06-2007, 08:45 PM
#79
Originally Posted by SpeedyPAL
If it were me I would deffinately use that new Cast Iron LSX block.
I hate it when things move around. You need to ask yourself why GM come out with that block. It was for guys like you - think about it.
And I'd use the same rods that allow the Cup cars to spend hours at the RPM you'r looking for. You can get them from Carrillo with 1.88 inch journals and 6.2 inches long. They were originaly made for Olds Quad 4 engines. The small journals reduce the surface speed of the bearings and allow you to keep them lubricated. I would also have the crank, rods, and pistons cryo treated, it's very cheep insurance. Also seriously consider a dry sump with three scavengers and an external pressure pump along with a 12 quart or larger oil tank. You need to be using nice clean air bubble free oil to lubricate and cool your engire not foam that's 1/3 oil and the rest air.
Then do what every one else is telling you.
Regards
Pete
I hate it when things move around. You need to ask yourself why GM come out with that block. It was for guys like you - think about it.
And I'd use the same rods that allow the Cup cars to spend hours at the RPM you'r looking for. You can get them from Carrillo with 1.88 inch journals and 6.2 inches long. They were originaly made for Olds Quad 4 engines. The small journals reduce the surface speed of the bearings and allow you to keep them lubricated. I would also have the crank, rods, and pistons cryo treated, it's very cheep insurance. Also seriously consider a dry sump with three scavengers and an external pressure pump along with a 12 quart or larger oil tank. You need to be using nice clean air bubble free oil to lubricate and cool your engire not foam that's 1/3 oil and the rest air.
Then do what every one else is telling you.
Regards
Pete
01-06-2007, 11:08 PM
#80
FormerVendor
LS1Joe's crazy engine has a 4.000 Eagle crank and a 5.7L 3.9 inch bore and it just made 655 RWHP and went 143 mph in the quarter. It has good valvetrain and good heads and a good intake as has been said and so it turns 8000 rpm and yet has an undersquare engine combo right now. It's basically doing what several people in this thread were saying it couldn't do! Reality can certainly be a bitch sometimes. 