Front/Rear wheel weight and performance...
Input?
The interial weight of the drivetrain is what he should be calling negectable as noted by revving the motor with the car in the air. I swear the drivetrain isn't really that damped by its own weight. I say your main enemy is static weight and not rotational energy. As noted that most static weight isn't needed in the car for structure and most of the rotational weight of the drivetrain is needed for structure. You don't make to make those smaller unless you want to break something!
If you are super concerned about this run the smaller diameter AND weight wheel you can get noting that the radius term is squared.
I built a heavy stick shift car once that came with a 40 lb. flywheel. I swapped it for a 15 lb. unit and gained performance that would have been equivalent to removing about 400 lbs off the front end. If I had swapped the wheels out for a set that weighed 25 lbs. less the difference wouldn't have been close. If I had taken 25 lbs. off the body I wouldn't have noticed.
Do you see what I'm saying? Reduce wieght where it does the most good first and work down. Aluminum flywheels or smaller torque convertors are one of the most effective weight mods as are lightwieght pulleys and crank dampeners. Thats why factory cars come with lightwieght pulleys now.
Vernon
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(I'm not agreeing with your friends, here)
say some aftermarket rims and tires weigh 35lbs each
that 20lbs of extra rotational weight
so if you didnt have thoes aftermarket rims its like adding 80 lbs to the car
right?
Damn Impala SS wheels are heavy. 60 some lbs with a tire.... Anyway, even on a 400rwhp car adding 15 lbs of weight in the worse possible senerio (outer edge of rim) only made like a 4 rwhp difference in a 4th gear pull.





