Still pushing water.
07-11-2007, 02:34 PM
#81
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
No
4.125 is the Max most engine builders are reccomending for power adder cars.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/740241-lsx-block-ready-use-out-box.html
4.125 is the Max most engine builders are reccomending for power adder cars.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iv-internal-engine/740241-lsx-block-ready-use-out-box.html
could conceivably have a lsx block done to match my 4.010 pistons then.....then again....lsx is heavy
Good to know though....
Last edited by Fireball; 07-11-2007 at 02:58 PM.
07-11-2007, 02:59 PM
#83
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
Break the **** you have 1st then build one 
07-12-2007, 06:28 AM
#84
Originally Posted by Fireball
when I said mid 8s, I consider 8.30-8.70 in that range...would be tough to get the car to leave hard enough to go much faster on a factory suspension I'd guess...especially since they don't permit wheelie bars
07-12-2007, 06:31 AM
#85
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Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
WEe know how to make cars leave and are pretty good at this point with setting up the suspention.
07-12-2007, 08:41 AM
#86
Originally Posted by Fireball
a torque arm will never leave as good as a properly tuned 4-link setup...stying with a TA will inherently leave some ET on the table
Im not saying this will be easy. im just saying we are not woried about the first 100' after that we will be heavyer and have less hp than the big block SC cars. but were not going out thinking we can win that class we just hope to be close enough to get lucky once in a while. hell if we place 10th and run a full season it will still be fun.
07-12-2007, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
Why do you think some of the big hitters in radial stuff are building TA stuff? you need to watch more radial classes. Most classes mandate a stock style suspention with just boltin replacements. 4th gens are no slouch when done right. my car has been 1.31's on mt drag radials with 250-300 less than my latest setup. were also pulling near 200 lbs out of the car. I don't think getting it to 60 will be our issues. its the 170 mph and sub 5 second 1/8's we will need to work on. hell my little brothers 510 rwhp car goes 1.38 60's
Im not saying this will be easy. im just saying we are not woried about the first 100' after that we will be heavyer and have less hp than the big block SC cars. but were not going out thinking we can win that class we just hope to be close enough to get lucky once in a while. hell if we place 10th and run a full season it will still be fun.
Im not saying this will be easy. im just saying we are not woried about the first 100' after that we will be heavyer and have less hp than the big block SC cars. but were not going out thinking we can win that class we just hope to be close enough to get lucky once in a while. hell if we place 10th and run a full season it will still be fun.
07-12-2007, 10:52 AM
#88
Originally Posted by Fireball
I'm not criticizing the fact you are staying TA suspension....I'm doing the same with mine in case I want to run a DR class later
07-16-2007, 09:06 AM
#89
Originally Posted by tuff
We just got back from the track and we set timing at 14 degrees all was going good mine you the car was more lazy with the timing out.We then started to pill it up thinking leave timing out and creep up with the tuneup.As soon as we pilled up to a 33 we then pushed water about half gallon.I know this is not right and maybe the gaskets are to thin (40 tho) heads went through the normal heat cycle and were retorqued.This pushing water is getting old and we are not going to make any more power if we can't keep the heads on the motor.
07-16-2007, 11:47 AM
#91
pushing water Yeh We Pushed Water To. Then We Heard About Using Yamalube (yamaha Brand Gasket In A Tube) And Appears To Have Solved The Problem With A 250 Shot. This Is With A Cometic .040 Gasket, 6.0 Iron Block With 11.1 Compression
07-16-2007, 12:21 PM
#92
Originally Posted by heavy6.0
Yeh We Pushed Water To. Then We Heard About Using Yamalube (yamaha Brand Gasket In A Tube) And Appears To Have Solved The Problem With A 250 Shot. This Is With A Cometic .040 Gasket, 6.0 Iron Block With 11.1 Compression
Sounds like your tune up is way off.
I sprayed a 250 all last year with no issues. .045 cometics
07-16-2007, 11:32 PM
#95
yes lme told me with etheads, arp studs, and cosmetics I would be good for a 300shot. I am also interested in what tune wise. A/F ratio, timing I am guessing less timing
07-17-2007, 05:51 AM
#96
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
What kinds of tunes are you guys reccomending?
Most guys are way to lean and have way to much timing. Guys just don't get that timing without hp is worthless. also guys keep tuning these cars on dynojets with 1400-2000lb rollers .....I don't know any 2000 lb fbodys. LOL.
IF you free spin a 1400 lb roller and tune it it might like 28* on a 300 shot but put a 3400lb load on the car and it will detonate its @ss off!
07-17-2007, 02:51 PM
#97
A lot of guys are way too agressive tuning their cars, wayyy more aggressive than I am with Shiz and ATVs car anyway, and they dont seem to be going slower than many
Shiz saw lil more than a 300 shot, on pump gas (making power 8.90s-9.10s at 3600#, I see some saying they hit theirs with a 300 shot but it doesnt et or trap what most would think a car would on that kind of shot and we had little of the problem some guys have on 200-250 hits.) Were not doing anything out of the ordinary no 1/2 stud stuff
Shiz saw lil more than a 300 shot, on pump gas (making power 8.90s-9.10s at 3600#, I see some saying they hit theirs with a 300 shot but it doesnt et or trap what most would think a car would on that kind of shot and we had little of the problem some guys have on 200-250 hits.) Were not doing anything out of the ordinary no 1/2 stud stuff
07-17-2007, 09:36 PM
#100
Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Thanks for commenting guys. Shiz are you running stock pcm or BS3? If BS3 what is your crank angle?
If jeff would only get off his *** and send his sponsor stuff in guys could get some really cool n20 help!