Damn Swirls!!!
#26
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heres before:
one of the first products i used in the four step:
the outcome (not perfect, but much better):
I had to fill in a chip in my paint (upper half of the door)and wet sand, can u tell where?:
one of the first products i used in the four step:
the outcome (not perfect, but much better):
I had to fill in a chip in my paint (upper half of the door)and wet sand, can u tell where?:
#27
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long story short you wont ever be fully able to get rid of every single swirl mark you see in the reflection of the direct sun in the clear coat of your car. a professional detailer like feldt or a tropicare vendor can do a great job and get rid of them, but unless you have patience (which i guess you dont since steve @ tropicare has made nearly a dozen threads on how to deal with spider cracks and swirl marks) its not going to happen
#28
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Nice recovery with your detail process.
When you look at the "before" picture, you can see both deeper scratches circling around the sun's reflection and lighter hologram style scratches along the driver's side. The lighter scratches look like they may have been inflicted during some previous high speed rotary buffing. These are true swirl marks. The deeper scratches are pretty typical that happen during the routine washing and drying process using inferior materials of techiques.
When you working on harder clear coats such as the Vette, other F-bodies, and cerami-clear surfaces, it is going to take some patience and experience to get these type of corrections with the Porter Cable and foam pad/product combos.
#30
I've got patience lol, but Imma pick up some Meguiars this after noon. Steve, if I dont have luck with this then ill be in touch with you over the phone more than likely and get what I need ordered!
#32
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long story short you wont ever be fully able to get rid of every single swirl mark you see in the reflection of the direct sun in the clear coat of your car. a professional detailer like feldt or a tropicare vendor can do a great job and get rid of them, but unless you have patience (which i guess you dont since steve @ tropicare has made nearly a dozen threads on how to deal with spider cracks and swirl marks) its not going to happen
For the individual owner, a Porter Cable buffer is an excellent and economical way to restore and refine the surface to "like new or better" condition. It does take patience and understanding when using the different foam buffing pads and product combinations.
At our local Monday GTG, I was asked to look at 3 different f-bodies in the parking lot this week. They ranged from a near pristine example of a red Firehawk to a mystic teal Z and finally a heavily marred '98 back TA. All 3 had the potential to improve the surface appearance based upon the owner's desire. For the Firehawk owner, some very fine lines could be easily removed with the Porter Cable buffer. Even though the owner was hesitant at the thought of using the machine for removal, I assured him it was necessary to achieve the flawless finish he wanted. On the Z, mild-moderate scratches from routine washing and drying would dictate the need for a slightly more involved correction process. For the '98 TA, it would provide an excellent tutorial project as I get many inquiries about this color/blemish combination. I look at these examples as a challenge to educate those who wish to achieve results for themselves.
One final thought:
Porter Cable buffer/pad assortment: about $160
Menzerna "Super Intensive Polish" for removing stubborn scratches on harder clear coats: about $40
One good buffing session with your PC: several hours
Achieving satisfactory results on your own: priceless
#33
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I'll be in touch sometime about getting the Menzerna.
Although, is it all from overseas?? Detailing friend has told me there is two of the same Menzerna's. One from the states and one from overseas.
Sorry...not up on the product line Menzerna offers.
I need to be, stuff is top of the line.
Although, is it all from overseas?? Detailing friend has told me there is two of the same Menzerna's. One from the states and one from overseas.
Sorry...not up on the product line Menzerna offers.
I need to be, stuff is top of the line.
#34
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Meguiars #9 is a pretty light compound to use to remove swirls. Now it's perfect for buffer trails, but I would think you need to step up to #80 then finish up with #9 and then polish. Hope this works for you.
#35
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I'll be in touch sometime about getting the Menzerna.
Although, is it all from overseas?? Detailing friend has told me there is two of the same Menzerna's. One from the states and one from overseas.
Sorry...not up on the product line Menzerna offers.
I need to be, stuff is top of the line.
Although, is it all from overseas?? Detailing friend has told me there is two of the same Menzerna's. One from the states and one from overseas.
Sorry...not up on the product line Menzerna offers.
I need to be, stuff is top of the line.
Both of these polishes list instructions for rotary use but I have used both of them with the DA. On darker colors, some micro-marring may occur with the DA but is easily corrected with a softer foam pad and lighter polish.
PowerGloss Compound will remove 1000-1500 grit scratches using a wool or foam compounding pad.
List prices:
IP about $26/Qt.
SIP about $40/Qt.
Power Gloss about $28/Qt.
We have code "10offTC" for use on orders over $50.
#36
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Micro-marring doesn't concern me, I still have 3 steps after the Menzerna or Prima Swirl. I own Swirl, but it seems (I hope I don't have this backwards) to work better on softer clears.
It seems to haze (easily cleaned up though) pretty good on the F-Body paint.
Works GREAT though also.
#37
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All swirl marks are able to be fully removed if you know what you're doing. It is very possible to achieve a mirror finish with no swirling. You will need at the very least Menzerna SIP on GM clear, if not moving on to Meguiar's #105 with a yellow compounding pad and work your way up to PO85rd (menzerna's finishing/jeweling polish).
#38
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Prin:
Nice recovery with your detail process.
When you look at the "before" picture, you can see both deeper scratches circling around the sun's reflection and lighter hologram style scratches along the driver's side. The lighter scratches look like they may have been inflicted during some previous high speed rotary buffing. These are true swirl marks. The deeper scratches are pretty typical that happen during the routine washing and drying process using inferior materials of techiques.
When you working on harder clear coats such as the Vette, other F-bodies, and cerami-clear surfaces, it is going to take some patience and experience to get these type of corrections with the Porter Cable and foam pad/product combos.
Nice recovery with your detail process.
When you look at the "before" picture, you can see both deeper scratches circling around the sun's reflection and lighter hologram style scratches along the driver's side. The lighter scratches look like they may have been inflicted during some previous high speed rotary buffing. These are true swirl marks. The deeper scratches are pretty typical that happen during the routine washing and drying process using inferior materials of techiques.
When you working on harder clear coats such as the Vette, other F-bodies, and cerami-clear surfaces, it is going to take some patience and experience to get these type of corrections with the Porter Cable and foam pad/product combos.
So are you saying that I didnt do a good process? And dont take that wrong. I am merely just asking. I am up for all of the advice that I can get. It looks pretty good to me. You should see it in person. There are no swirls in it at all.
Last edited by Prin; 10-30-2008 at 09:32 PM.