http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.c...75703425007154

 

The lid looks nice. You should post some pictures of the bottom side of the hood so people can see all of your trimming.

 

great work so far! kudos on doing it all without a garage


im going with the wire setup on the right.. gets the wires away from the heat and doesnt look tacky like the OTVC setup

 

will this cause an exhaust leak?

 

what will ? the slit between the flange ? i doubt it. my macs dont leak there. they actually leak on the passenger side where there is no split. i would probably be alot better if there was a split there allowing the flange to sit flatter on the head. and yes. OTVC FTW! i did mine and made my own taylor wires. it came out nice IMO

 

awsome work being done let the pics keep on coming

 

Got some progress done on my car and actually street drove it for the first time since November. Drove about 20 miles and knock on wood, so far so good. Going to try and drive it to work tomorrow for the true test (60 mile round trip)

First cleaned her up BTW, the wheels are temps till my Weld ProStars come in.




And I promised pics of the underside of the hood where I cut for the LS1 lid. Granted this is a rough cut and will clean it up with a dremel soon, but here is what was taken out



The LS1 lid and base setup...



Then went down to McHenry Muffler and Dana ran true duals for me for a really reasonable price and really happy with the results. Dual 3 inch to 3 inch Race Magnum mufflers with turn downs. Sounds pretty tame at idle which I was looking for, but the second you give the LT1 gas, it sounds beasty Ground clearance is about 3 inches, so not too bad IMO

 

exhaust looks nice.. we need a sound clip now no x or h pipe?

 

On the turn downs angle them at a 315* angle (full circle measurement) and it should help with the interior sound. If you put an H in there it will help with the sound, power, and flow even more. It's pretty simple at this point too.

 

exhaust looks good. you need some new suspension parts in the rear and possibly new rear

 

agreed! youll need some good suspension parts under there to get you into the 10's

 

suspension is next on the list, i want to do suspension, rear end, trans and then the engine last. hopefully it will last long enough to hold me over.

 

Looks good!! I wish too

 

i figured you were doin it that rear and panhard bar just look lik theyve seen better days

 

Well finally bit the bullit and ordered some Weld ProStars. I got for the front 15x3.5 with 1.75 backspacing and 15x10 with 7.5 backspacing. For the front tire, I went with the VW tires (165/80r15) and the rear tires I ordered some Nitto 275/50r15 Drag Radials. Those havent come in yet so found some scrap 245/60R15 BFG Radial TAs for the rear till those come in.

Front ProStar and 165 Tire...



Rear ProStar and BFG Radial TA Tire till my Nittos arrive. Also installed ARP 3.25 inch wheel studs (yes, i needed to pull the axles to do this)...



Also figured since my final goal is 10s, I ordered a Competition Engineering 8 point roll cage to stiffen the car out and for safety issues. I also am ordering SFCs this week to so going to do all this at once.



And washed the car and took some pictures of the Camaro with the wheels on. I love how the car looks now, just cant wait to have the hood painted

 

time for a new sig pic lol

 

Just about to request one, unless someone can whip up one

 

Nice build mike, if you ever need a hand let me know.

 

Cool build. I haven't read the entire thread so forgive me if this questions have been answered before.

I know you are on a budget, but those front tires weigh about 18-19lbs apiece, I used to run them. The Moroso bias-ply weigh 9-10 depending on which ones you get. That is 20lbs of unsprung weight which is huge. What made you go with the radials on the front?

I see you still rock the stock style battery. You NEED to get an odyssey PC680 or equivalent. It will shed 25-30lbs right off of the nose. Any plans for a new battery?

You are going to get booted from tech inspection for your front wheel studs being way too short. They will check this too.

Rollcage. Did you get chromoly or no? Those bolt-in chromoly cages from SW or wherever usually weigh 20-30lbs less than the mild steel ones. It's worth every penny since they typically only run $150-$200 more. $10 a lb is a good investment.

 

Man now that thing looks like a REAL car!!! Nice work so far.