it's gettin' close!
I was looking into Nasty's kit before.
Sounds pretty easy.
I dont want to have aftermarket rails.
Thanks for your help.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time

This was my S10 i had for a LONG time

...and this was my first LS car
here's what I've accomplished so far, albeit not much despite my efforts and lots of driving back and forth.
Here's the new Canton oil pan i picked up:

Here's my brake booster & master cylinder back in:

Here's a little closer shot. You can see I've hooked up the lines from my SJM linelock / ABS delete kit....the solenoid and proportioning valve are not bolted in because I'm 99.9999% certain I'm going to put them somewhere else, out of sight, but i wanted to see how they would look in their intended location.

I found 2 or 3 places to mount the solenoid and valve, BUT I'm second guessing my locations because i don't have the engine, steering shaft, fuse box, or wire harnesses in there and I'm not sure what will interfere with what. i have tentative plans to put the fuse block underneath it's original spot where the A.I.R. pump would be and run the wire harness in between the inner and outer fender like i have done on the passenger side...basically the !wire mod all over again on the driver's side...so that i can mount my proportioning valve on top of the frame rail where the wire harness usually would run.
NOW, the biggest issue i have right now, and have been aware of for a while, is with my windage tray....as some of you may be aware, a 4.125" stroke is pretty damn long and the stock windage tray just wont clear. I first had to drill out the holes in the stock tray just to get it to go over my ARP main studs. Next i had to put 7, that's right 7, 1/16" thick washers on top of each stud to shim the tray far enough away to get the rods to clear...even with them i had to make some minor clearance adjustments with a hammer.
When it was all said and done, the tray cleared but the tops of the main studs were flush with the top of the nuts, and i'd like to have some stud sticking out. Well, this wasn't the only issue...the pickup tube didn't line up with the stud it mounted to when it was bolted to the oil pump...some bending and cussing later, it fit...but when i mocked up the oil pan, it only had ~0.140" clearance with the bottom of the pickup and i need 0.250"-0.300". i was going to bend it some more to get the necessary tolerance like everyone else does until i decided i didn't like anything about any work i had done thus far...so i quit working on that and came home...bugs were eating me alive anyway.
Now, i didn't just give up. i had a goal in mind and with a little research it payed off when i followed an instinct. GMPP part # 19202613....LSX Windage Tray kit
..."includes all necessary hardware" and "for 4.000"-4.125" strokes." Once i get one of those, i can take out all those washers, bolt it right on, be happy with the studs' stick-out, have all the clearance, and the pickup tube should be damn near perfect!
I went ahead and put the alternator bracket on and motor mounts...




At this point, i'm pretty much on hold with the build until i can get that GMPP windage tray. i need that to get the motor in the car, and i want the motor in so i can see where i have wiggle room to hide my linelock/ABS delete hardware and a few other misc parts. in the mean time, i'm going to try to get the fuel system finished up and get the Torque arm mounted.
I was told the windage tray was to go into GM's system this week or early next week, so the wait SHOULDN'T be too long....hopefully...
The intake is the last major piece of the puzzle. i'm about to order my crank damper, clutch is obviously here, water pump is next, and i think i have 99.9% of everything else here. oh, i need a driveshaft too...that should be about it unless i decided to change anything up. i'd like to get a manual steering rack, but that's not necessary to get the car going, so that might wait. same with an aluminum radiator, i want one, but don't NEED one.


