How could this of happened to my paint? All out Detail
#22
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you will never get the results you desire by hand. You just cant mimic the movements of the buffer. It'll take some time but you Can fix it... with the right equipment.
And no Meguiar's shouldnt have to put a warning about soft paint on the bottles, thats soemthing that should be already known. (or you can buy a little guage that tells you exactly how soft the paint is, and go from there.
Also, definately look at your towels. they could VERY well be contributing as well
Good Luck!
And no Meguiar's shouldnt have to put a warning about soft paint on the bottles, thats soemthing that should be already known. (or you can buy a little guage that tells you exactly how soft the paint is, and go from there.
Also, definately look at your towels. they could VERY well be contributing as well
Good Luck!
Last edited by PhantomR/T; 03-17-2009 at 01:20 PM.
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Let me ask you a question. What did you use to take the compounds off? I just went thru the same thing that you did and I noticed something. The "high quality " terry cloth towels i used to use to wax my car by hand with were actually leaving scratches in the clear. The reason i found this out was because I got all the scratches out with the portercable.
#24
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Let me ask you a question. What did you use to take the compounds off? I just went thru the same thing that you did and I noticed something. The "high quality " terry cloth towels i used to use to wax my car by hand with were actually leaving scratches in the clear. The reason i found this out was because I got all the scratches out with the portercable.
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I am going to agree with most of people in the thread and say it was the Turtle Wax - Polishing Compound. I used this by hand on the hood of my black sonoma and then put a nice polish and wax on top....yes it was smooth, but I had scratches everywhere and light hazing. With this stuff you really have to work it....and work it some more to get "decent" results, however with you steps you took after the compound, I would have skipped this step and a few others you listed. ( I also trashed the turtle wax)
The way I got it off and really brought back the shine was starting over.
Wash the car and clay it again.
Then come back with some Meguiars Ultimate Compound, and spend some time on a 2x2 section just working it in....be sure to not let it dry before wiping off.
Then follow with Meguirs NXT and let it cure/sit on the car for atleast 30 mins before removing....I am sure you will like the results.
I have since bought the PC and have done quite a few cars with it. It definately is a good investement and cuts the time down on detailing a vehicle.
Hope this helps...oh yeah, check out the truck in my sig. for results from a Porter Cable.
The way I got it off and really brought back the shine was starting over.
Wash the car and clay it again.
Then come back with some Meguiars Ultimate Compound, and spend some time on a 2x2 section just working it in....be sure to not let it dry before wiping off.
Then follow with Meguirs NXT and let it cure/sit on the car for atleast 30 mins before removing....I am sure you will like the results.
I have since bought the PC and have done quite a few cars with it. It definately is a good investement and cuts the time down on detailing a vehicle.
Hope this helps...oh yeah, check out the truck in my sig. for results from a Porter Cable.
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There's no blame to placed on the products, IMO. Even if they aren't really choice products. Honestly, your process and procedure is to blame.
Two choices - learn how to do it properly and do it yourself, or find a quality detailer and pay them. There are several top notch detailers in Florida (and I wouldn't expect it to be anything cheap...$300++).
Two choices - learn how to do it properly and do it yourself, or find a quality detailer and pay them. There are several top notch detailers in Florida (and I wouldn't expect it to be anything cheap...$300++).
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alright guys I really appreciate the manner in which you are all responding....Im actually recieiving help instead of criticisms (seems like most people like to simply criticize instead of help on this site)
Anyways I really thank you all, and I guess Ill have to tackle her again next weekend with a pc and some new products/pads.
Are you guys pretty sure that there is no need for a wetsand and buff?
I do have a nice camera, and Ill try and take pictures, but Im unsure as to whether or not the damage that Im seeing, will come through in the pics....so ill try.
Thanks again to everyone!!!!
Anyways I really thank you all, and I guess Ill have to tackle her again next weekend with a pc and some new products/pads.
Are you guys pretty sure that there is no need for a wetsand and buff?
I do have a nice camera, and Ill try and take pictures, but Im unsure as to whether or not the damage that Im seeing, will come through in the pics....so ill try.
Thanks again to everyone!!!!
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If you can get a Porter Cable, use Meguiar's #105 and an orange pad. Set the PC at 4 and work it in. Buff by hand. That should remove all of the scratches and swirls. Then use your favorite carnauba wax to protect. ![Thumb](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/thumb.gif)
Look around on http://www.autopia.org/forum/index.php
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Look around on http://www.autopia.org/forum/index.php
Last edited by Silverado_13; 03-17-2009 at 04:12 PM.
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alright guys I really appreciate the manner in which you are all responding....Im actually recieiving help instead of criticisms (seems like most people like to simply criticize instead of help on this site)
Anyways I really thank you all, and I guess Ill have to tackle her again next weekend with a pc and some new products/pads.
Are you guys pretty sure that there is no need for a wetsand and buff?
I do have a nice camera, and Ill try and take pictures, but Im unsure as to whether or not the damage that Im seeing, will come through in the pics....so ill try.
Thanks again to everyone!!!!
Anyways I really thank you all, and I guess Ill have to tackle her again next weekend with a pc and some new products/pads.
Are you guys pretty sure that there is no need for a wetsand and buff?
I do have a nice camera, and Ill try and take pictures, but Im unsure as to whether or not the damage that Im seeing, will come through in the pics....so ill try.
Thanks again to everyone!!!!
#31
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Yeah start with a PC and Menzerna Intensive polish or some Meguiars (i'm not familiar with Meguiars so I can't recommend anything). Start with a white or an orange pad and work it in nice, buff it off with a MICROFIBER cloth. Don't use those "High Quality Terry" pieces of crap because their not high quality, their, well.. Crap. After that go down a step in pads and do it again. Don't wetsand unless it turns up as your last resort, but I still don't think you should wetsand.
If you need help you can ask Steve from Tropi Care, he's the expert
If you need help you can ask Steve from Tropi Care, he's the expert
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#36
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I hate to sound rude but it seems like you might have rushed through this and didnt have the right tools for the job. You should really get a buffer and use it man. All youre doing when you do this by hand is polishing the scratches on the car..lol.
Think of your car as your face. If you have a blemish (zit) on your face and you grow a little beard (5oclock shadow), the zit isnt REALLY noticed. Now shave clean, scrub your face with some face products (sorry, cant think of any "face products"..lol) and then take a look. That zit stands out now that your face is all pretty huh? There is nothing wrong with the products you used at all, just the time and tools used to apply them. You just polished up your "car zits" at the end of the day..lol. I wish you luck with getting it all taken care of though, nothing worse than spending hours trying to clean that paint and then having to look at those scratches.
Think of your car as your face. If you have a blemish (zit) on your face and you grow a little beard (5oclock shadow), the zit isnt REALLY noticed. Now shave clean, scrub your face with some face products (sorry, cant think of any "face products"..lol) and then take a look. That zit stands out now that your face is all pretty huh? There is nothing wrong with the products you used at all, just the time and tools used to apply them. You just polished up your "car zits" at the end of the day..lol. I wish you luck with getting it all taken care of though, nothing worse than spending hours trying to clean that paint and then having to look at those scratches.
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Detailing is really frustrating to me, Ive yet to really figure it out. I've followed the advice of people on here and detailing forums and have yet to correct my paint. I may very well not know enough and that might be your problem also, my car is disgusting though. Every time I see my paint I want to sell my car and now there is some road paint under the doors and there was a ton in the wheel wheels, but I got most of that off with clay. I am at the point where I may just pay someone to do it because my paint is pretty bad.
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The TW polishing compound is made for removing damage with a buffer. The most aggressive stuff you want to use by hand is Meg's ScratchX. If you have a PC, use the Menzerna SIP it is awesome stuff. You probably PUT the swirls into your paint with the TW polishing compound.
BTW, GM paint is notoriously hard, not soft.
BTW, GM paint is notoriously hard, not soft.
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I can almost guarantee it was the tw polish compound. (Please tell me you didnt use the polishing compound in the little plastic tin) I do a bit of car detailing myself and personally think most turtle wax products are crap. If you are doing things by hand, get some scratch-x or some of the new swirl-x and work on tiny sections at a time as mentioned above. When you are finished coat it with a nice wax. I personally am a nxt fan (actually a meguiars fan in general)