SRP Racing Pedals - 20% off
#1
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SRP Racing Pedals - as low as $55
I put this in the Sponsor Sales section, but it looks like this forum get a lot more traffic, so I'll put it here too.
Hello,
My name is Brian and my company is SRP. We are now a LS1TECH forum sponsor. SRP has been specializing in racing pedals since 1995. I do hope you will find the time to look over our many options as we have pedals for all budgets and for all purposes. Our pedals are made to fit your vehicle specifically. You do have to drill holes to mount the pedals. Once installed, they are a part of your car with no chance of coming off. Our pedals are designed for performance enthusiasts, offering much improved heel toe placement and the highest levels of grip. We have sold quite a few of these to Fbody enthusiasts through the years, but usually through dealers and other channels, so you might not recognize our name.
I’ll give you the most often asked info right here, the pricing:
The retail price is $69 for the Machined finish set.
The Satin finish adds +$10.
The Grid, Block, and Cleat finish add +$50
Instead of doing a group buy (who wants to wait?), I have set up a discount coupon for LS1TECH.com Forum users.
Just enter: LS1TECH while checking out for 20% off.
This gets the price down to $55.20 for the Machined finish, $63.20 for the Satin, and $95.20 for the Grid, Block, and Cleat finish pedal sets.
------------------------------------
We have 5 different surface finishes to choose from.
The following pictures are to show the different surface finishes. The Satin and Grid are the most popular. Note that not all pictures are of Fbody pedals.
GRID +$50
SATIN +$10
MACHINED
BLOCK +$50
CLEATS +$50
After many years of people asking how the grip compares to factory, and me telling them they are great, I finally got around to doing some testing to show just how much grip they do have. Below are the results of the testing. Just to clarify, the wet test was NOT done with water, but with Armor All. We wanted to do a worst case scenario type test.
Also, just to clarify, we used to make our Grid pedals with flat tops, instead of pointy tops. After doing this testing we have switched all our Grid pedals to the "Pyramid" pointy top style.
DRY
WET
www.srpracing.com
Hello,
My name is Brian and my company is SRP. We are now a LS1TECH forum sponsor. SRP has been specializing in racing pedals since 1995. I do hope you will find the time to look over our many options as we have pedals for all budgets and for all purposes. Our pedals are made to fit your vehicle specifically. You do have to drill holes to mount the pedals. Once installed, they are a part of your car with no chance of coming off. Our pedals are designed for performance enthusiasts, offering much improved heel toe placement and the highest levels of grip. We have sold quite a few of these to Fbody enthusiasts through the years, but usually through dealers and other channels, so you might not recognize our name.
I’ll give you the most often asked info right here, the pricing:
The retail price is $69 for the Machined finish set.
The Satin finish adds +$10.
The Grid, Block, and Cleat finish add +$50
Instead of doing a group buy (who wants to wait?), I have set up a discount coupon for LS1TECH.com Forum users.
Just enter: LS1TECH while checking out for 20% off.
This gets the price down to $55.20 for the Machined finish, $63.20 for the Satin, and $95.20 for the Grid, Block, and Cleat finish pedal sets.
------------------------------------
We have 5 different surface finishes to choose from.
The following pictures are to show the different surface finishes. The Satin and Grid are the most popular. Note that not all pictures are of Fbody pedals.
GRID +$50
SATIN +$10
MACHINED
BLOCK +$50
CLEATS +$50
After many years of people asking how the grip compares to factory, and me telling them they are great, I finally got around to doing some testing to show just how much grip they do have. Below are the results of the testing. Just to clarify, the wet test was NOT done with water, but with Armor All. We wanted to do a worst case scenario type test.
Also, just to clarify, we used to make our Grid pedals with flat tops, instead of pointy tops. After doing this testing we have switched all our Grid pedals to the "Pyramid" pointy top style.
DRY
WET
www.srpracing.com
Last edited by pedalpusher; 05-21-2009 at 07:52 PM. Reason: update
#3
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I ordered the satin finished pedals from Brian and they look great. I'll be installing them this weekend and will post pics as soon as I get a chance. This is a great price for the pedals.
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Wow...these are the pedals I have. I got them as a gift from my brother one christmas...but I didn't know where he got them from. People have been asking me for years where to get them...now I finally know what to tell them!
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Brian
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I have updated the website with these new options.
http://www.srpracing.com/pd_camarofirebird_93-02.cfm
The Fbody Grid Black retail is $139. Make sure you use the LS1TECH discount code for 20% off, which brings it down to $111.20 plus shipping.
thank you,
Brian
http://www.srpracing.com/pd_camarofirebird_93-02.cfm
The Fbody Grid Black retail is $139. Make sure you use the LS1TECH discount code for 20% off, which brings it down to $111.20 plus shipping.
thank you,
Brian
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Just to be clear, these are anodized and not powdercoated. I think the Block design will do well. I am planning on getting some anodized with the next batch - not sure if they will be Fbody or some other type of pedal. I actually think this design will do better than the Grid due to the lack of really sharp edges.
If you would like a set let me know and I will make sure I get a set anodized.
Brian
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Do these have brackets that secure them around the existing pedals?
Or do they actually screw right into the existing pedals?
If they screw right into the pedals, I imagine they are there for good, & you probably won't want to remove them, because they'll leave screw holes in the OE pedals?
Any installation pdf or docs anywhere online?
Or do they actually screw right into the existing pedals?
If they screw right into the pedals, I imagine they are there for good, & you probably won't want to remove them, because they'll leave screw holes in the OE pedals?
Any installation pdf or docs anywhere online?
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Do these have brackets that secure them around the existing pedals?
Or do they actually screw right into the existing pedals?
If they screw right into the pedals, I imagine they are there for good, & you probably won't want to remove them, because they'll leave screw holes in the OE pedals?
Any installation pdf or docs anywhere online?
Or do they actually screw right into the existing pedals?
If they screw right into the pedals, I imagine they are there for good, & you probably won't want to remove them, because they'll leave screw holes in the OE pedals?
Any installation pdf or docs anywhere online?
They do bolt to the factory pedals. The brake and clutch mount with machine screws and lock nuts and the gas and footrest mount with self tapping screws. Once installed their is no chance of them coming off. Please don't strap anything to your brake pedal.
If you remove them you can put the oem rubber on the brake and clutch to cover the holes. The holes on the gas and footrest will be exposed, but they are not noticeable unless you are looking for them.
If you would like more install info shoot me an email that I can reply to.
Brian
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I'm not a salesman (well, technically, I guess I am). The pedals are a wear item. This is one of the reasons I've been reluctant to offer pedals with a coating. But, people kept asking for it. That being said, the anodized surface is much harder than the bare aluminum, so it should wear better.
Brian
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Here are the pics I promised. Sorry for them being so huge. LOL
I'm very happy with them and I don't see how the heck they could fail on any one when installed properly. Like Brian recommended, you'll need a good set of drill bits.
I'd like to make one recommendation to Brian. Include one 1" self-tapping screw for the dead pedal. There is already a factory self-tapping screw where the dead pedal will go so it needs another one of equal length to replace that one to match the other 2 screws used on the dead pedal. It wouldn't be a deal breaker if you didn't include it though. Definitely a great price for these pedals. Also I went on Brian's recommendation and ordered the smooth pedal for the gas only. He answered all my questions and shipped them out promptly.
For those installing, the instructions are pretty much straight forward. I will mention a couple of things. The gas pedal doesn't need to be removed. You'll need to install the pedal over the factory rubber pedal. It'll cover it completely and you won't even notice that it's there. Also it is very important that you drill pilot holes on the brake and clutch. It'll make the holes more accurate and will keep the drill bit aligned to where you need to make the hole. For the dead pedal you'll simply need to remove the factory self-tapping screw, center the dead pedal over the hole and make the other two holes to hold the dead pedal. Then install the screws.
I'm very happy with them and I don't see how the heck they could fail on any one when installed properly. Like Brian recommended, you'll need a good set of drill bits.
I'd like to make one recommendation to Brian. Include one 1" self-tapping screw for the dead pedal. There is already a factory self-tapping screw where the dead pedal will go so it needs another one of equal length to replace that one to match the other 2 screws used on the dead pedal. It wouldn't be a deal breaker if you didn't include it though. Definitely a great price for these pedals. Also I went on Brian's recommendation and ordered the smooth pedal for the gas only. He answered all my questions and shipped them out promptly.
For those installing, the instructions are pretty much straight forward. I will mention a couple of things. The gas pedal doesn't need to be removed. You'll need to install the pedal over the factory rubber pedal. It'll cover it completely and you won't even notice that it's there. Also it is very important that you drill pilot holes on the brake and clutch. It'll make the holes more accurate and will keep the drill bit aligned to where you need to make the hole. For the dead pedal you'll simply need to remove the factory self-tapping screw, center the dead pedal over the hole and make the other two holes to hold the dead pedal. Then install the screws.