92SilverSHO

iTrader: (3)

First off ,just wanted to say you have to reverse the polarity of the GM headlight plugs with the slim ballasts i got from DDM. Anyways the problem is that for some odd reason, the driver side light doesn't light up always with the passenger light. Sometimes i have to turn the headlight switch on and off again to get the drivers side to light. My buddy and I have checked all the wiring, everything is good, even wiggled the wires when both lights were on to make sure everything was connected fine and nothing was loose.

Anyone else have this problem?

RacingTiger03

iTrader: (3)

Use to have that problem with my silverado sometimes. My understanding was an HID relay would fix the problem. Comes from having not enough power to fire, I'm going to guess you have auto lights? My way around that was if I was starting the truck at night, cut on the brights so the lows would be off, after starting switch back to low and both would fire no problem.

VIP1

Based on your two issues,

1.) Yes, from what I've seen, the polarity is reversed on the Camaro's headlight sockets and people usually have to swap the pins in the socket to get HID kits to work properly.

2.) For the intermittent turn-on issue, sounds like you need to get or make a relay harness. I made on for my Formula.

Grn4fbody

iTrader: (2)

The kid I got from HouseofHID.com I didnt have to swap anything all bolted in, installed under 5 min's

92SilverSHO

iTrader: (3)

Alright guys, im running a decent size stereo. So far i have started the car up 4 times so far and both times, both lights came on. Basically i have to have the radio off, turn on the headlights and then put the parking brake down and so far so good. Maybe the radio is taking a bit much draw even with the car running since the ballasts need a good 12v to fire. I will do the relay if it does happen with any sort of frequency.

Question about aiming. How high should the aim be? Is the bottom screw for the the right to left and the top screw is for up and down? The lights are an improvement over stock and they do light up all sorts of signs down the road.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I think it is, park 20 feet from a wall, on a level surface. The cutoff line of the HIDs should be 1-2 inches below the measurement from ground to center of your headlights.

If your stereo is booming when you kick the HIDs on I could see them not having enough juice to fire. In that case, the relay to do a direct to battery hookup should help.

And the reversed polarity is normal... GM in their wisdom wired our plugs backwards from standard. For halogen bulbs, it doesn't matter. But HIDs, it does.

hlaalu

iTrader: (3)

lol that seems way too much of a hassle just for some lights. hope you figure it out.

bcablelex

I recently installed the 50w 6000k kit. I had same problems and still do but I have a work around... I had thought about removing the kit all together but i wanted to try a few more things..

I knew that it needed a lot of power to start the bulbs than it does to actually run the bulbs like your regular CFL lights in buildings.

I used an 80amp relay with 12awg wire. Kind of excessive I think but I wanted to make sure it was getting all the power it needed to start the ballasts.. This didn't help.. Playing around, I turned the lights on with the car turned off.. I found out that my lights would come on every time the car wasn't running.. As soon as I started the car, I turned the lights back on and they would blink on and then go off all under 1 sec..

Before finding this little work around, I would have to turn the lights off for about 3 sec and try it again.. Sometimes this would take 4 tries..

It doesn't make sense to me either.. When the car is off the battery is around 13.2v.. Car running = 14.2-14.4v.. I have checked all voltages and even hooked the relay power and ground straight to the battery without success.. I had read some posts on another site talking about ballasts with auto re-strike but even they had similar issues.

My kit was $79 shipped.. I wasn't going to pay $200 for some of the other kits. Overall, I like the kit.. I can see great while driving through hard rain..

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

you could just start the car with the parking brake on (keeps headlights from coming on automatically), start the car, drop brake (lights come on).
i think if you put the key in and turn it as fast as you can, the lights tend to come on as the engine is turning over. this probably steals some of that power needed to get the lights going. with this in mind, i haven't had a problem lately.

bcablelex

I did the DRL disable mod a few months back because I kept blowing my turn signals. The mod disabled both the DRL and auto headlights.

92SilverSHO, Did you guys try turning the lights on before you started the car? I am just curious if this works for your situation..

92SilverSHO

iTrader: (3)

Well basically to ensure the ballasts fire every time, i just blip the throttle and turn the headlight switch on at the same time, then put down the parking brake. Works like a charm. I can turn my lights on without the engine running as well. Im still having a problem with the passenger side headlight. Its very loose compared to the driver side and the fit isn't as good. Im going to try to fiddle with it. When i widen the beam, the cutoff aims down so i loose distance and when i go for distance, i loose width. I wish both headlights had equal cutoffs.

Nova5

GM Wiring and the BCM can't handle the load demanded by the HIDs.

When i retrofitted E46 projectors into mine i wired up a whole wiring control harness and gave each projector its own 15 amp circuit. Added a new fuse panel into the engine area that taps the battery with an 8ga wire (60amp fused). 18ga wire supplies power to each projector. Works great, read up on it for awhile before doing it and what most people said makes sense, the factory wiring isn't rated to run the higher draw of HID's being fired up. Running, it can handle fine. Hell with it, bypass the factory wiring for anything but the relay triggers. Low beams trigger the relay for the Bulbs. High beam is tied directly to the shield 12v wire. All it has to power is the coil circuit to pull the shield back.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

That's why I always recommend the digital ballast HIDs. They don't pull as much at startup and are much more reliable. Mine are plugged straight into my stock harness and never, ever fail to fire, even in subzero temps.

BTW - the BCM has nothing to do with your headlights

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

the hid conversion sales people also say you can use a bigger fuse for the headlights which should solve this...

but... WHERE IS THE HEADLIGHT FUSE ON A CAMARO?

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Bigger fuse shouldn't matter. You're not popping it, so a larger one won't help. Even if you were popping it then you shouldn't put a bigger one in, for risk of burning out the wiring.

I think the headlight fuse is in one of the blocks under the hood.

The Guz

iTrader: (8)

I would recommend a relay harness.

VIP1

I also recommend a relay harness.

The power issue is a bigger issue on the Firebird due to the headlamp doors. A few times on really cold days the headlights would pop up but one of the HID bulbs stayed off.

Its not that hard. I made my own harness.


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