Detail Guys In Here. Not Happy With A Professional Detail I Got
#64
Teching In
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Carol Stream, IL
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Whoooa!
I did not realize you were still unhappy with the results. I will never hide or refuse to fix any issue with any car that comes out of my shop. I am the owner of Perfect Auto Finish and stand by my work 100%. I appreciate you not bashing my business online, but I would love the opportunity to discuss some options we have.
With your paint being as clean and unmolested as it was I was attempting to remove the light swirls/scratches with the least amount of polish/pad aggression as possible. I did not want to use a deep cutting compound on it if it was not required. I apologize that there were still imperfections not removed in the second polishing. Like some have mentioned the GM clear is quite hard, yet somehow scratches quite easily. I went slightly more aggressive the second time around, but obviously not aggressive enough. In the shop florescent lights and a couple halogens it appeared most of them were removed. Sometimes these minor scratches hide themselves quite well in some lighting just to jump out under other lighting or sunlight.
I would love the opportunity to try a more aggressive pad and "smart cut" compound following it up with a lighter polish and pad to remove the swirls the cut creates. This would be followed with our Ultimate Paint Sealant for long lasting protection. Of course this would be free of charge, I want to make this right, especially for a fellow F-body owner. Sorry again Jonas, you know how to get a hold of me if you would like to discuss this further.
PS: The scratches he is referring to will not be removed by a PC, trust me. Also, nothing was filled in or hidden with a glaze. We will only use a glaze upon customer request.
I did not realize you were still unhappy with the results. I will never hide or refuse to fix any issue with any car that comes out of my shop. I am the owner of Perfect Auto Finish and stand by my work 100%. I appreciate you not bashing my business online, but I would love the opportunity to discuss some options we have.
With your paint being as clean and unmolested as it was I was attempting to remove the light swirls/scratches with the least amount of polish/pad aggression as possible. I did not want to use a deep cutting compound on it if it was not required. I apologize that there were still imperfections not removed in the second polishing. Like some have mentioned the GM clear is quite hard, yet somehow scratches quite easily. I went slightly more aggressive the second time around, but obviously not aggressive enough. In the shop florescent lights and a couple halogens it appeared most of them were removed. Sometimes these minor scratches hide themselves quite well in some lighting just to jump out under other lighting or sunlight.
I would love the opportunity to try a more aggressive pad and "smart cut" compound following it up with a lighter polish and pad to remove the swirls the cut creates. This would be followed with our Ultimate Paint Sealant for long lasting protection. Of course this would be free of charge, I want to make this right, especially for a fellow F-body owner. Sorry again Jonas, you know how to get a hold of me if you would like to discuss this further.
PS: The scratches he is referring to will not be removed by a PC, trust me. Also, nothing was filled in or hidden with a glaze. We will only use a glaze upon customer request.
#66
I only asked because i know him and know he would not be happy with a unhappy customer out there.
#68
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Herculaneum,MO
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"Torchd, it's better to have some imperfections than to thin the clear too much. And don't buy the BS of internet pics that look perfect, most of those cars would probably look worse than yours in person."
+1
+1
#71
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (2)
If M105 can't remove it then it isn't worth taking the risk of trying to remove it. M105 or Ultimate compound followed by a high quality finishing polish is as good as it gets.
Last edited by wannafbody; 04-12-2010 at 09:31 PM.
#72
Whoooa!
I did not realize you were still unhappy with the results. I will never hide or refuse to fix any issue with any car that comes out of my shop. I am the owner of Perfect Auto Finish and stand by my work 100%. I appreciate you not bashing my business online, but I would love the opportunity to discuss some options we have.
I did not realize you were still unhappy with the results. I will never hide or refuse to fix any issue with any car that comes out of my shop. I am the owner of Perfect Auto Finish and stand by my work 100%. I appreciate you not bashing my business online, but I would love the opportunity to discuss some options we have.
With your paint being as clean and unmolested as it was I was attempting to remove the light swirls/scratches with the least amount of polish/pad aggression as possible. I did not want to use a deep cutting compound on it if it was not required. I apologize that there were still imperfections not removed in the second polishing. Like some have mentioned the GM clear is quite hard, yet somehow scratches quite easily. I went slightly more aggressive the second time around, but obviously not aggressive enough. In the shop florescent lights and a couple halogens it appeared most of them were removed. Sometimes these minor scratches hide themselves quite well in some lighting just to jump out under other lighting or sunlight.
I would love the opportunity to try a more aggressive pad and "smart cut" compound following it up with a lighter polish and pad to remove the swirls the cut creates. This would be followed with our Ultimate Paint Sealant for long lasting protection. Of course this would be free of charge, I want to make this right, especially for a fellow F-body owner. Sorry again Jonas, you know how to get a hold of me if you would like to discuss this further.
I really jsut want my paint to look like these examples..
What do you want me to do next Kevin?
After M105x2/SIP
#73
I didn't see the pictures of the car. And I'm speaking from personal experience working on GM clear. You'll never get a perfect finish without seriously removing clear. Any car that sits outside will have microetching that can't be fully removed with a foam pad and can only be seen under streetlights. I also read of autopians claiming to remove sanding marks with a PC which is utter BS since a PC can never remove tracers(unless those guys are so good as to never get tracers which I highly doubt). My advice, beware of all the claims you read.
If M105 can't remove it then it isn't worth taking the risk of trying to remove it. M105 or Ultimate compound followed by a high quality finishing polish is as good as it gets.
If M105 can't remove it then it isn't worth taking the risk of trying to remove it. M105 or Ultimate compound followed by a high quality finishing polish is as good as it gets.
Yeah Matt I agree. From reading Autopia and peoples personal experience, they all swear by M105 and how well it works
#74
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (32)
Dude! I can't bear to see this happen to you anymore. You are seriously unhappy with your paint finish and it seems like you are getting the run-around by the shop, presidential detail, some locals, . . . and, . . . by me.
I'll be in your neck of the woods Thursday and I could come over and work on it. I'll be free all day that day. PM me a good time to meet up and your number again.
I'll be in your neck of the woods Thursday and I could come over and work on it. I'll be free all day that day. PM me a good time to meet up and your number again.
#75
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (32)
I didn't see the pictures of the car. And I'm speaking from personal experience working on GM clear. You'll never get a perfect finish without seriously removing clear. Any car that sits outside will have microetching that can't be fully removed with a foam pad and can only be seen under streetlights. I also read of autopians claiming to remove sanding marks with a PC which is utter BS since a PC can never remove tracers(unless those guys are so good as to never get tracers which I highly doubt). My advice, beware of all the claims you read.
If M105 can't remove it then it isn't worth taking the risk of trying to remove it. M105 or Ultimate compound followed by a high quality finishing polish is as good as it gets.
If M105 can't remove it then it isn't worth taking the risk of trying to remove it. M105 or Ultimate compound followed by a high quality finishing polish is as good as it gets.
And using a PC to buff out wetsanding marks is no bullshit.
1. After a 2000 grit sanding:
2. After some Rubbing compound to help smooth down the sand marks:
3. After a medium cut abrasive:
4. The finished result with Mezerna Intensive Polish:
Since then, I've added a yellow pad to my arsenal to help level the sanding marks quicker. I was quite surprised to see how the Turtle Wax's Rubbing compound effectively took out the marks with the orange pad. I'm now quite confident in using a Yellow Pad with 3M's Rubbing Compound for something this intensive in the future.
#77
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Born: FL, Live: Knox, TN
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Nice work guys, all the cars in here looked great! And Jonas.. your car is like 99.9% better looking paint wise than mine!! So be happy, haha because i got ALLOOTTTT of work to do!! Newbie here trying to learn on how to get those Spyder scratches out, webs, aka swirls.. or w.e u prefer! But still need to buy all the tools Also my paint USED to be red.. now its sort of fading a lil into a orangest hue?? Is there a way of working around a new $2,000 paint job??? SERIOUS QUESTION!! But i'd like to paint it Metallic Navy Blue Any quotes on how much a FULL paint job runs usually??
#78
TECH Enthusiast
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http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-det...80-beware.html
same member as that black camaro posted.............
same member as that black camaro posted.............
#79
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (2)
My paint looks like it did when I dropped off to you the first time. There are still a bunch of swirls and those little tiny 1" scratches all over, which I have no idea how they even got there but you cannot even feel them. I guess maybe one piece of advice, for the final walk through maybe check it outside under direct sunlight? Like you said my paint is unmolested, not weatherd hasn't seen snow and rain since 2005.. Garaged every year. You would think that it should be very easy to get rid of the swirls..(end quote)
I'm sure Gav or Presidential Detail would do quality work. Random isolated deep scratches won't be able to be fully removed but can be improved upon. Minor scratches may be able to be fully removed with M105 or UC.
Batmobile, nice work with the headlight cover but internet pics don't prove a thing. Menzerna is known for filling and I suspect that you would have some tracers. If you have absolutely no tracers fill me in on your secret because I've gotten tracers the couple times I tried wetsanding. BTW, most polishes are full of oils that can fill and some leave behind a waxy type coating. let me clarify, I removed 2000 grit sanding marks but I've never been fully able to remove the deeper tracers.
I am not familiar with Immaculate Reflections or what process they used but again internet pics don't prove a thing. Most polishes and compounds have oils and can fill, most waxes are full of oils. It might look perfect in a pic but might be swirl city after a wash and the oils are gone but then again it is possible that if it was done by someone good with a quality process that it really does look nearly perfect.
And another thing to remember is even if someone gets it perfect chances are after the first wash or QD with MF towels you'll put some swirls back into the finish.
BTW, many photos at Autopia are taken after the car has been QD'd with products with silicone oils that fill.
I'm sure Gav or Presidential Detail would do quality work. Random isolated deep scratches won't be able to be fully removed but can be improved upon. Minor scratches may be able to be fully removed with M105 or UC.
Batmobile, nice work with the headlight cover but internet pics don't prove a thing. Menzerna is known for filling and I suspect that you would have some tracers. If you have absolutely no tracers fill me in on your secret because I've gotten tracers the couple times I tried wetsanding. BTW, most polishes are full of oils that can fill and some leave behind a waxy type coating. let me clarify, I removed 2000 grit sanding marks but I've never been fully able to remove the deeper tracers.
I am not familiar with Immaculate Reflections or what process they used but again internet pics don't prove a thing. Most polishes and compounds have oils and can fill, most waxes are full of oils. It might look perfect in a pic but might be swirl city after a wash and the oils are gone but then again it is possible that if it was done by someone good with a quality process that it really does look nearly perfect.
And another thing to remember is even if someone gets it perfect chances are after the first wash or QD with MF towels you'll put some swirls back into the finish.
BTW, many photos at Autopia are taken after the car has been QD'd with products with silicone oils that fill.
Last edited by wannafbody; 04-13-2010 at 09:26 AM.
#80
http://www.autopia.org/forum/pro-det...80-beware.html
same member as that black camaro posted.............
same member as that black camaro posted.............
I wonder who is better.. Jeff or Presidental Detail.. I will let them both detail my car to see whos better