Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

First time with a buffer questions

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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 10:04 PM
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Default First time with a buffer questions

so i have decided to go at with my car with a buffer, its has some light swirls, and i have tried doing it by hand with no success.

So i was wondering what i need to buff the paint so that most if not all the swirls are gone. what pads should i use and what are some good compounds to use.

right now all i have been using has been megs swirlx, DC2 polish, nxt, and then a gold class on top of it.

any suggestions would be great

thanks
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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orange- menzerna super intensive polish
gray- wolfgang finish glaze
gray- wolfgang deep gloss paint sealant
blue- pinnacle souveran liquid wax

if theres any light swirls left from polishing, i use wolfgang swirl remover with an orange pad. also, i usually go back the next day with another layer of pinncale wax with a red pad.

a lot of people get really good results with the m105/205. im just not a fan of the meguiars.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 07:35 AM
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orange pad with megs 105
black pad with megs 205
the a hand coat of nxt
this has gotten about 98% of the scratches and swirls outta my paint.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 08:16 AM
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Which buffer are you talking about? A DA like the Porter Cable or a rotary? I use the PC with an orange pad and M105. Follow that with M205 and a coat of polish/wax once the paint is swirl free. Don't get in a hurry, it might take a little time depending on the paint imperfections.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 08:47 AM
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^ what he said and dont let it set in one spot to long or else youll burn through the clear coat and possibly the paint depending on how long it sets there
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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its very hard, if not almost impossible to burn through paint with a PC. a rotary, you might. the dual action of the PC is what makes it safer.

personally, although i have NO luck with detailing, tropi-care's swirl remover has worked better for me then megs swirl remover.

the most important step is to start with the LIGHTEST pad/compound first, then move progressively heavier if needed. you dont need to hit it with a yellow pad and megs diamond cut if you dont need to. you can safely do the entire car with a white pad and swirl remover. if you have a heavier scratch, go up one step at a time, and see what pad/compound is needed for that particular scratch, then go back down the ladder and end up with a swirl remover/white pad for the final touch.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoke Em
any suggestions would be great
You should post some close-up pics of the paint under a halogen or the sun. Make sure you appraise the car after a good wash and dry.

Also EchoMirage, it's not impossible to burn paint with a PC. It is very hard, but it can be done.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 05:01 PM
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could you guys post a link to the type of PC your talking about just to make sure i get the right one
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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I had to use the yellow pad with the menzerna super intensive polish for mine. The swirls wouldn't come out with the orange pad.

This is the kit I bought...
http://www.showroomfx.com/Porter_Cab...p/sfxpc-10.htm


I eventually bought the yellow pad because there was some deep swirls and a few scratches the orange pad couldn't take out...
http://www.showroomfx.com/Yellow_Foa...p/sfxp-1.5.htm


Browse the site and also throw in a wax and the Menzerna SIP polish.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 05:46 PM
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Smoke Em: Thats what you need. ^^^^ The buffer will provide a lifetime of details for you. I have had my PC for 6 years and average 75-90 cars a year. I just replaced the power cord last year. Other than that it has beeen flawless.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 06:35 PM
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whats a good speed to set it at to start? should the pads be wet while buffing or is compound enough of a lubricant not to burn the paint
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoke Em
whats a good speed to set it at to start? should the pads be wet while buffing or is compound enough of a lubricant not to burn the paint
The PC is very user friendly. Just about the only way to harm the paint is to drop the buffer on the car. Now, if your trying to burn the paint you can. Using the PC correctly will not burn the paint. The paint damage occurs with the build up of heat. The PC doesn't build up much heat. The rotary is another story. You can lightly spritz the pad with water to cut down the dust when using compounds if needed. To apply polish/wax I use speed 3. To remove the product I use speed 5. I use the orange pad with a microfiber bonnet to remove the product.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Smoke Em
whats a good speed to set it at to start? should the pads be wet while buffing or is compound enough of a lubricant not to burn the paint
i use the foam pad polishing conditioner.

as far as speeds, i start out at 3k to spread the product around. keeps from slinging polish everywhere. once its spead around i bump it up to 5 or 6k
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 11:55 PM
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I have the same kit that BlueKnight posted and I love it. The PC is definitely user friendly and gives some amazing results. So far all I've used is a LC orange pad, Mequiars Ultimate Compund, followed by Meguiars NXT wax and have gotten some amazing results. I'm planning on getting some M105/M205 in the near future though.

Don't be intimidated by it, you'll be kicking your self in the *** for not getting one a long time ago!
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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do you guys tape off the edges and corners if your using the PC?
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Smoke Em
do you guys tape off the edges and corners if your using the PC?
I don't.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Smoke Em
do you guys tape off the edges and corners if your using the PC?
I do. It allows you to bring your PC closer to the edge without getting compound or polish embedded in some of our weird trim (like that plastic where our windshield wipers sit). Masking was especially important when I used it to polish my windows, since many stubborn waterspots were hugging the corners of the glass.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 07:46 AM
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You don't have to tape the fender/hood edges like you would with a rotary. But taking a little time to tape the molding, window felt, etc is worth it. Sometimes it's not hard to remove, but it's easier if it never gets on there.
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Old Jul 14, 2010 | 08:16 PM
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yellow pad with megs 105 and green pad with megs 205 then top with your preference of wax.

result from 105/205 below on suggested pads.

2K9 WRX (first pass with 105 with yellow pad)



98 NBM formula


spoiler before:




spoiler after:
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