Hlaalu's headlights ** 99.9% completed **
#82
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It might be, because I had to flip the connection so it doesn't lock in place. I'll tape it really good when I finish tonight
#85
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Basically feeds them direct from the battery instead of through the stock harness. The stock harness just clicks a relay on and off. Reason I don't think the stock harness is an issue when running is HIDs (the 35W ones at least) use less power than halogens, so the stock harness can handle that just fine. The issue can sometimes be just the initial startup inrush current which is pretty high. Firebird guys tend to have more of a problem than Camaro guys because they have the extra load of the headlight motor starting as well.
Yes, I am special ![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
What I did on mine is I flipped the wires in the stock harness so it could lock in place again. That way the HIDs work, and lock, and if I was to ever go back to halogen the halogen bulb doesn't give a crap which way the current flows in it.
Well aren't you special!
There is a lot of stuff about it on google, it looks like it's totally random.
It might be, because I had to flip the connection so it doesn't lock in place. I'll tape it really good when I finish tonight
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
It might be, because I had to flip the connection so it doesn't lock in place. I'll tape it really good when I finish tonight
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
What I did on mine is I flipped the wires in the stock harness so it could lock in place again. That way the HIDs work, and lock, and if I was to ever go back to halogen the halogen bulb doesn't give a crap which way the current flows in it.
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Basically feeds them direct from the battery instead of through the stock harness. The stock harness just clicks a relay on and off. Reason I don't think the stock harness is an issue when running is HIDs (the 35W ones at least) use less power than halogens, so the stock harness can handle that just fine. The issue can sometimes be just the initial startup inrush current which is pretty high. Firebird guys tend to have more of a problem than Camaro guys because they have the extra load of the headlight motor starting as well.
Yes, I am special![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
What I did on mine is I flipped the wires in the stock harness so it could lock in place again. That way the HIDs work, and lock, and if I was to ever go back to halogen the halogen bulb doesn't give a crap which way the current flows in it.
Yes, I am special
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
What I did on mine is I flipped the wires in the stock harness so it could lock in place again. That way the HIDs work, and lock, and if I was to ever go back to halogen the halogen bulb doesn't give a crap which way the current flows in it.
I also read that the if the fuse for the lights is a 10 or a 15 I should change it to a 20.
#88
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Also, changing the fuse wouldn't do anything good. If you aren't blowing it, then a higher rated fuse will do nothing. If you ARE blowing it, you still shouldn't change it to a higher one as the wiring probably wouldn't handle it.
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There is a little locking tab that if you push with a tiny screwdriver it lets the wire slide right out.
Also, changing the fuse wouldn't do anything good. If you aren't blowing it, then a higher rated fuse will do nothing. If you ARE blowing it, you still shouldn't change it to a higher one as the wiring probably wouldn't handle it.
Also, changing the fuse wouldn't do anything good. If you aren't blowing it, then a higher rated fuse will do nothing. If you ARE blowing it, you still shouldn't change it to a higher one as the wiring probably wouldn't handle it.
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hey sparky is there a way to make adjustments to the headlights on the car? like with the brackets or something? the adjustments on my headlights are maxed out but they still shine kind of low
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not hard at at all, remove metal tabs, bulbs, there might be a screw on some lights that holds housing together...remove that, place on cookie sheet at 350 for 8 mins, use oven mit or gloves, use a small flat head screwdriver or work ur way into the light, you need to move quickly cause the RTV will harden back up. Once you got it started, you can use an utility knife to cut through the RTV, and pull apart with ur hands.
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The screws should be enough to get it aimed high enough though. On mine, if I max them out I would be shining straight into someone's windshield.
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Just measure the diameter of the shroud, so you know what size CCFL to order, besides that the hardest part is getting them secured so they wont come off. Most of the halos that come on the headlights have 2 tabs and are hot glued in...so removal is fairly simple.