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- Camaro and Firebird How to Wash, Wax, and Detail Car<br>Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs.
Best car wax?
06-01-2011, 02:47 PM
#41
The PC is great for beginners, it is what I started with. I still own it and use it. It certainly can do much of what a rotary can do, but not entirely. To put it into a basic more simple perspective a rotary can cut in one pass what a PC can cut in 3 or 4 passes(all things else equal) from what I have experienced.
BTW, your red SS with the FIKSE FM5's.....fuggin drool! Beautiful ride!
Sunlight is a good tool for seeing paint defects but most pros use soemthing like the brinkman "'swirl finder" light for paint correction...I have one and it works great, FWIW.
http://di1-2.shoppingshadow.com/imag...geable+Spo.jpg
http://di1-2.shoppingshadow.com/imag...geable+Spo.jpg
06-01-2011, 02:57 PM
#42
Yes, thats the one. Though I'd get the newer model the PCXP. Also do not use the pad that comes with it. Get some orange, white, and black Lake Country pads.
As for the condition of your paint, the pictures don't really say anything unfortunately. Look at the pics I posted, both with sun spots directly reflecting into the lens. This is how you spot the flaws. Your very first pic is the only one with a sun reflecting in it, and its only on the mirror from too far away and too low resolution to see anything. Take a pic around 11am-1pm on the hood and get the sun right in the lens, that will show you....or just look at it in the same way. Good luck to you!
As for the condition of your paint, the pictures don't really say anything unfortunately. Look at the pics I posted, both with sun spots directly reflecting into the lens. This is how you spot the flaws. Your very first pic is the only one with a sun reflecting in it, and its only on the mirror from too far away and too low resolution to see anything. Take a pic around 11am-1pm on the hood and get the sun right in the lens, that will show you....or just look at it in the same way. Good luck to you!
I will be looking into that too btw
06-01-2011, 03:00 PM
#43
I said screw it and bought all of the stuff that I needed to do the job (PC kit with Megs twins, Wolfgang sealant, and Nattys). A friend who is really good at detailing came over and gave me a few pointers and helped alot with the car. My car turned out really freakin good with just 8hrs into it. I could have easily went another 4hrs to get the front fenders really good. In the sun it looks 100000x better than it did. Im glad I took the time to do it right because the results show it.
Here is the process we used:
-Dawn wash
-Alchohol wipe down
-Clay bar
-Wash again
-105 cut
-205 polish
-wash
-sealant
-wax
I ended up spending another prolly $200 on car washing supplies.
Shop Vac/Blower to dry with
Microfibers
Grit guards
Chemical guys microfibers and there cash wash liquid (stuff is bad *** btw).
I dont want all of the hours going to waste by washing and drying my car half *** with shitty products.
Here is the process we used:
-Dawn wash
-Alchohol wipe down
-Clay bar
-Wash again
-105 cut
-205 polish
-wash
-sealant
-wax
I ended up spending another prolly $200 on car washing supplies.
Shop Vac/Blower to dry with
Microfibers
Grit guards
Chemical guys microfibers and there cash wash liquid (stuff is bad *** btw).
I dont want all of the hours going to waste by washing and drying my car half *** with shitty products.
06-01-2011, 03:14 PM
#44
Remember that the less you touch your paint the less you will create surface imperfections/swirl marks etc.
The only reason I add this is because I noticed in a post above that you stated you were going to purchase some big towels for drying.
I have a metro vac and it allows me to blow dry the car. It allows me to blow all the water out of the tight crevices that towels can not reach and like I stated, it is one less step in which the paint it not touched.
Purchase a polish. M105 and M205 are outstanding.
cut/correct(might wash car again), apply sealant, then top wax/carnauba if desired.
The PC is great for beginners, it is what I started with. I still own it and use it. It certainly can do much of what a rotary can do, but not entirely. To put it into a basic more simple perspective a rotary can cut in one pass what a PC can cut in 3 or 4 passes(all things else equal) from what I have experienced.
The only reason I add this is because I noticed in a post above that you stated you were going to purchase some big towels for drying.
I have a metro vac and it allows me to blow dry the car. It allows me to blow all the water out of the tight crevices that towels can not reach and like I stated, it is one less step in which the paint it not touched.
Purchase a polish. M105 and M205 are outstanding.
cut/correct(might wash car again), apply sealant, then top wax/carnauba if desired.
The PC is great for beginners, it is what I started with. I still own it and use it. It certainly can do much of what a rotary can do, but not entirely. To put it into a basic more simple perspective a rotary can cut in one pass what a PC can cut in 3 or 4 passes(all things else equal) from what I have experienced.
I didn't think a drying towel could be potentially harmful to my paint
I mean it is rather soft and stuff, and i do need to run it through the washer to get some of the dirt off. Since we're on the subject tho, to reduce abrasions, swirls ect, would a powerwash be better than a good ol hand wash? or potentially be more harmful? It kinda intrigues me abit, I normally powerwash it every weekend and i never use a brush or washing towel/shamie. But back on subject, I wrote that process down, ty so much for sharing that
I said screw it and bought all of the stuff that I needed to do the job (PC kit with Megs twins, Wolfgang sealant, and Nattys). A friend who is really good at detailing came over and gave me a few pointers and helped alot with the car. My car turned out really freakin good with just 8hrs into it. I could have easily went another 4hrs to get the front fenders really good. In the sun it looks 100000x better than it did. Im glad I took the time to do it right because the results show it.
Here is the process we used:
-Dawn wash
-Alchohol wipe down
-Clay bar
-Wash again
-105 cut
-205 polish
-wash
-sealant
-wax
I ended up spending another prolly $200 on car washing supplies.
Shop Vac/Blower to dry with
Microfibers
Grit guards
Chemical guys microfibers and there cash wash liquid (stuff is bad *** btw).
I dont want all of the hours going to waste by washing and drying my car half *** with shitty products.
Here is the process we used:
-Dawn wash
-Alchohol wipe down
-Clay bar
-Wash again
-105 cut
-205 polish
-wash
-sealant
-wax
I ended up spending another prolly $200 on car washing supplies.
Shop Vac/Blower to dry with
Microfibers
Grit guards
Chemical guys microfibers and there cash wash liquid (stuff is bad *** btw).
I dont want all of the hours going to waste by washing and drying my car half *** with shitty products.
on another note, I heard and read in forums that dawn/joy is too harsh on auto-paint, anyone have any truth to that? I personally don't use it for that reason
06-01-2011, 03:18 PM
#45
Have you tried the Kevin Brown method with it? I've had cars that defeated my rotary + wool + M105, yet the KBM on my PC sorted it out. I have 3 different rotaries, and love them all, but the PC is my workhorse. It would be hard to not have my rotaries around though. Both tools are integral to the detail process.
BTW, your red SS with the FIKSE FM5's.....fuggin drool! Beautiful ride!
BTW, your red SS with the FIKSE FM5's.....fuggin drool! Beautiful ride!
I have followed some of your work on here as well and it is always eye pleasing.
Yes I have reviewed the KB method and attempted it. I'm not a fan of applying the pressure that it talks about to the paint. I have been pleased with the FLEX rotary that I purchased for correction so I leave the PC for applying sealants and LSPs.
Last edited by pir7tr; 06-01-2011 at 03:36 PM.
06-01-2011, 03:51 PM
#46
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I think the misconception that it is 'bad for paint' is just people misunderstanding the reasons why its not recommended. You'll hear some people claim it 'dries out the paint' or can cause clearcoat damage... thats simply not true.
There is some debate to be made over it potentially drying out trim, but there again would be extreme cases of over use and not conditioning the trim afterwards.
Long story short... Dawn is great for stripping the paint when you intend to 'start over' on the finish. The rest of the time stick to a pH neutral car soap to preserve the protection you've put down.
06-01-2011, 04:00 PM
#47
If I may... its not harsh on paint, the only reason its discouraged (and the reason he used it when he did) is because it strips old wax from the finish very effectively. Obviously if you put a ton of time and effort into polishing/waxing the car the last thing you want to do is strip it down the next time you wash it.
I think the misconception that it is 'bad for paint' is just people misunderstanding the reasons why its not recommended. You'll hear some people claim it 'dries out the paint' or can cause clearcoat damage... thats simply not true.
There is some debate to be made over it potentially drying out trim, but there again would be extreme cases of over use and not conditioning the trim afterwards.
Long story short... Dawn is great for stripping the paint when you intend to 'start over' on the finish. The rest of the time stick to a pH neutral car soap to preserve the protection you've put down.
I think the misconception that it is 'bad for paint' is just people misunderstanding the reasons why its not recommended. You'll hear some people claim it 'dries out the paint' or can cause clearcoat damage... thats simply not true.
There is some debate to be made over it potentially drying out trim, but there again would be extreme cases of over use and not conditioning the trim afterwards.
Long story short... Dawn is great for stripping the paint when you intend to 'start over' on the finish. The rest of the time stick to a pH neutral car soap to preserve the protection you've put down.
Thank you for sharing that
06-01-2011, 04:36 PM
#48
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Those two things are kinda contradictory.... 1 month is not good durability at all, but is what I'd expect from TW. Blackfire Wet Diamond = 3-4 months, Zaino/Rejex = 6 months, Collinite 845 = 4-6 months, Wolfgang Paint Sealant 3.0 = ~3 months. Might be time for you to put the TW down and save yourself some effort.
Florida weather can be wretched on outside vehicles, so some people wax differently and wash more frequently than others. TW has been working for longer than most brands and it's probably still the best seller worldwide... I'm not here to endorse it, but it's honestly not a bad product. Besides, they make carnauba for those who want really easy application and removal. It's also about the least expensive wax available and TW claims it lasts up to 12 months... They don't claim that about cars left outside in direct sunlight in FL, however. High heat, high humidity and regular rain(harder than you'll see in most states) takes its toll.
06-01-2011, 05:20 PM
#49
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Woa blow drying the car dry, why didn't I think of that?
I didn't think a drying towel could be potentially harmful to my paint I mean it is rather soft and stuff, and i do need to run it through the washer to get some of the dirt off. Since we're on the subject tho, to reduce abrasions, swirls ect, would a powerwash be better than a good ol hand wash? or potentially be more harmful? It kinda intrigues me abit, I normally powerwash it every weekend and i never use a brush or washing towel/shamie.
But back on subject, I wrote that process down, ty so much for sharing that
I didn't think a drying towel could be potentially harmful to my paint
I mean it is rather soft and stuff, and i do need to run it through the washer to get some of the dirt off. Since we're on the subject tho, to reduce abrasions, swirls ect, would a powerwash be better than a good ol hand wash? or potentially be more harmful? It kinda intrigues me abit, I normally powerwash it every weekend and i never use a brush or washing towel/shamie. But back on subject, I wrote that process down, ty so much for sharing that
This is what I typically post when someone asks about maintaining their paint:
Supplies:
-car wash soap with high lubricity
-high quality sheepskin wash mitts
-foam gun (optional)
-2 buckets with grit guards for paint
-1 bucket and mitt for wheels
-high quality microfiber towels
-210+ mph electric leaf blower
-high quality sealant and/or wax
-quick detailer
Method:
-Wash wheels/tires/wells first to prevent spotting on paint and glass
-Don't use the same mitt or bucket for wheels that you use on your paint. The brake dust, etc. from your wheels will cause scratches and swirls in your paint.
-Using foam gun, cover vehicle in a thick layer of foam (optional)
-Use two buckets for washing paint. One with a soapy mixture, the other with plain water to rinse the mitt between panels.
-Never use circular motions. Always wash, dry, and wax using front to back and top to bottom motions.
-When vehicle is fully cleaned, allow a slow, steady stream of water to flow over each panel...sheeting the majority of the water off
-Use the leaf blower to blow all water from flat surfaces, mirrors, lights, etc.
-Remove any remaining water with a waffle weave drying towel and detail spray
Keeping a good sealant and/or wax on the paint will assist in cleaning and reduce chances of marring.
06-01-2011, 05:41 PM
#50
"At least" had a meaning there...
Florida weather can be wretched on outside vehicles, so some people wax differently and wash more frequently than others. TW has been working for longer than most brands and it's probably still the best seller worldwide... I'm not here to endorse it, but it's honestly not a bad product. Besides, they make carnauba for those who want really easy application and removal. It's also about the least expensive wax available and TW claims it lasts up to 12 months... They don't claim that about cars left outside in direct sunlight in FL, however. High heat, high humidity and regular rain(harder than you'll see in most states) takes its toll.
Florida weather can be wretched on outside vehicles, so some people wax differently and wash more frequently than others. TW has been working for longer than most brands and it's probably still the best seller worldwide... I'm not here to endorse it, but it's honestly not a bad product. Besides, they make carnauba for those who want really easy application and removal. It's also about the least expensive wax available and TW claims it lasts up to 12 months... They don't claim that about cars left outside in direct sunlight in FL, however. High heat, high humidity and regular rain(harder than you'll see in most states) takes its toll.
06-01-2011, 06:15 PM
#51
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Take a look at Meguiars website and see how similar their waxes are. Any carnuaba is about the same, if not the exact same.
If it's my goal to have a really shiny car with a "deep paint" look, I'll use polish instead of wax. I just want a decent looking vehicle and even the cheap stuff works for that.
06-02-2011, 08:42 AM
#52
Everything you touch the paint with should be evaluated and considered.
This is what I typically post when someone asks about maintaining their paint:
Supplies:
-car wash soap with high lubricity
-high quality sheepskin wash mitts
-foam gun (optional)
-2 buckets with grit guards for paint
-1 bucket and mitt for wheels
-high quality microfiber towels
-210+ mph electric leaf blower
-high quality sealant and/or wax
-quick detailer
Method:
-Wash wheels/tires/wells first to prevent spotting on paint and glass
-Don't use the same mitt or bucket for wheels that you use on your paint. The brake dust, etc. from your wheels will cause scratches and swirls in your paint.
-Using foam gun, cover vehicle in a thick layer of foam (optional)
-Use two buckets for washing paint. One with a soapy mixture, the other with plain water to rinse the mitt between panels.
-Never use circular motions. Always wash, dry, and wax using front to back and top to bottom motions.
-When vehicle is fully cleaned, allow a slow, steady stream of water to flow over each panel...sheeting the majority of the water off
-Use the leaf blower to blow all water from flat surfaces, mirrors, lights, etc.
-Remove any remaining water with a waffle weave drying towel and detail spray
Keeping a good sealant and/or wax on the paint will assist in cleaning and reduce chances of marring.
This is what I typically post when someone asks about maintaining their paint:
Supplies:
-car wash soap with high lubricity
-high quality sheepskin wash mitts
-foam gun (optional)
-2 buckets with grit guards for paint
-1 bucket and mitt for wheels
-high quality microfiber towels
-210+ mph electric leaf blower
-high quality sealant and/or wax
-quick detailer
Method:
-Wash wheels/tires/wells first to prevent spotting on paint and glass
-Don't use the same mitt or bucket for wheels that you use on your paint. The brake dust, etc. from your wheels will cause scratches and swirls in your paint.
-Using foam gun, cover vehicle in a thick layer of foam (optional)
-Use two buckets for washing paint. One with a soapy mixture, the other with plain water to rinse the mitt between panels.
-Never use circular motions. Always wash, dry, and wax using front to back and top to bottom motions.
-When vehicle is fully cleaned, allow a slow, steady stream of water to flow over each panel...sheeting the majority of the water off
-Use the leaf blower to blow all water from flat surfaces, mirrors, lights, etc.
-Remove any remaining water with a waffle weave drying towel and detail spray
Keeping a good sealant and/or wax on the paint will assist in cleaning and reduce chances of marring.
but i detail them last with wheel cleaner then protectant.. my wheels still shinning since sunday I already gots me a microfiber towel
ehh i guess i needs a sheepskin mitt tho 
I have a echo backpack leaf blower
I normally used to use meguiars quik detailer 'inbetween waxes' like when i see smudges and finger prints on my car, i think abunch of people drive by my work and admire my car sometimes and inadvertently touch my car like they've never seen a SS before
Dam I think im set after i get that PC and a good polish, sealant & wax
06-02-2011, 10:25 AM
#53
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Be very conscious when using your backpack blower. Sometimes gas-powered blowers can leave an oil/gas film on the paint which isn't good.
06-02-2011, 10:36 AM
#54
Not all microfiber towels are the same. There are many different types (ie. waffle weave for drying, plush for quick detailing, etc.) and certainly different quality. Towels are one of the quickest ways to introduce swirls and scratches to your paint.
Be very conscious when using your backpack blower. Sometimes gas-powered blowers can leave an oil/gas film on the paint which isn't good.
Be very conscious when using your backpack blower. Sometimes gas-powered blowers can leave an oil/gas film on the paint which isn't good.
but i guess an electric leaf blower would prolly be better then... What should i look for when looking for a microfiber towel? I need a bigger one anyways, and/or another one. Like i said earlier, mine feels very soft and plush, although im sure there is more to it than just texture
06-02-2011, 04:38 PM
#56
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Most of the store-bought towels are mediocre at best. They lack consistency in the quality control. Some might be good and some might be bad. I pm'd you with my chosen online retailer for quality microfiber.
When in doubt, test the towel on a CD. If it will scratch the CD, it will definitely scratch your paint.
When in doubt, test the towel on a CD. If it will scratch the CD, it will definitely scratch your paint.
06-02-2011, 11:19 PM
#57
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06-03-2011, 08:00 AM
#59
o snap i didn't realize that, I think mine would jus blow air but i guess an electric leaf blower would prolly be better then...
What should i look for when looking for a microfiber towel? I need a bigger one anyways, and/or another one. Like i said earlier, mine feels very soft and plush, although im sure there is more to it than just texture
but i guess an electric leaf blower would prolly be better then... What should i look for when looking for a microfiber towel? I need a bigger one anyways, and/or another one. Like i said earlier, mine feels very soft and plush, although im sure there is more to it than just texture
06-03-2011, 08:51 AM
#60
I normally 100% shop online for everything, ebay is where its at tbh if u know what ur looking for
.. but none the less, since before this thread i knew absolutely nothing about waxing detailing a car, so I wouldn't know what to get or look for. I got a few now, some stuff is rather expensive, but in the end I feel they will pay for themselves, and would most likely create a new hobby for me. I mean i just realized it's jus more than 'wax on, wax off' .. theres washing, polishing, sealants, waxing, detailers, blow drying .. they all play there part. Rather intriguing if you ask me