Is getting your car detailed worth $200+?
#42
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 1,240
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well its all a judge of opinon. I can get anywhere from 200-400 a car depending on what i do. But if you dont feel like youre going to take care of teh vehicle after its done id tell u not to spend the 200 in the first place. People buy PCs all the time n call themselves detailers but unless you have a rotory youre limited on what you can correct. if you polish out with a PC it shouldnt take too long but some of teh rotorys out there are pretty heavy compared to a PC.
so its all just a prefrence on wht youre willing to pay but remember you get what you pay for.
so its all just a prefrence on wht youre willing to pay but remember you get what you pay for.
#43
On The Tree
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: leominster ma
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats what they get in my area....anywhere from 125-225 and it doesnt do **** for the paint. a full paint correction which there is only 1 place in massachusetts that i would recommend is around 60 hr but they dont use a porter cable its a actual polisher. thats why i hate massachusetts sometimes its so ******* expensive for anything out here
#44
TECH Regular
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I do detailing as a side business and $200 is well worth it...of course...it depends on what is done to the car (basic wash and wax, paint correction, and level of detail), what products (most shops use cheapest products to make more profit) on the car and what condition the car is in and especially color (black would cost the most). for $200 I would wash the car, clay, vaccum interior, detail dash, door trim, consol, minor swirl/ scratch removal, polish and wax, detail tires, clean rims, polish any metal (exhaust tips, rims, trim) For show quality detailing ill charge anywhere from $350-500 depending on color, condition of paint and interior, and what needs to be done.
I use nothing but http://www.adamspolishes.com/ products. Absolutely the BEST detailing products on earth. Try it, you will NOT be disappointed. Jay Leno uses this stuff on his extensive multi-million dollar car collection.
I use nothing but http://www.adamspolishes.com/ products. Absolutely the BEST detailing products on earth. Try it, you will NOT be disappointed. Jay Leno uses this stuff on his extensive multi-million dollar car collection.
Last edited by 808z28camaro; 06-14-2011 at 01:31 PM.
#45
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irving Tx 75060
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thats what they get in my area....anywhere from 125-225 and it doesnt do **** for the paint. a full paint correction which there is only 1 place in massachusetts that i would recommend is around 60 hr but they dont use a porter cable its a actual polisher. thats why i hate massachusetts sometimes its so ******* expensive for anything out here
I was just saying for wash, clay, wax and cleaning up the exterior, $200 is steep.
The Porter cable is more than cable of handling it's own. Every tool has it's place though.
#46
TECH Regular
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree 110%
Last edited by 808z28camaro; 06-14-2011 at 02:28 PM.
#47
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
I beg to differ X 1,000,000. PC are one of the best buffers out there due to its random orbit movement. It can get all angles of scratches, swirls, haze. Ive done pretty hardcore/ severe paint corrections with a pc with Adams Polishes Severe Swirl & Haze Remover and green buffing pad. Best thing, you will NOT burn paint. PC+great product+experienced hands=almost endless paint correction ability. My question to you is, Have you used a PC, correctly? If not, dont knock it till you try it...correctly with the the right products that is. Since im a sub-distributor of adams polishes products and PC Ive got several paint shops/ detail shops locally to switch over to a PC. Of course they were like you, a non-believer. all I had to do to get them to switch over is a Demo right in front of them on a sub-standard Black car with a need for paint correction (major swirls, and oxidation, a few scratches). Ive never seen Jaw drops like theirs.
I agree 100%. after owning and using both. i produce better results with the PC. and dont ever burn the paint. paint burn is my biggest pet peeve when looking at cars that have been detailed. even the most experienced detail can burn it with a rotary.
#48
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Mmmm lots going on in this thread. Thanks for the kind words guys
Here's my take on the rotary vs PC...
So I'm workin on the 1962 corvette doing some test sections to find the best combo and I figure I'll need the rotary+twisted ply wool+M105 to cut through the severe neglect. I do a test section and it looks great, but obviously needs refining. So I use the PCXP with the MF+D300 and it looks amazing!
At that point I thought, well lets test ONLY the D300 on the other side of the tape line. I got nearly identical results...so close it makes near no difference. I spent more time working the D300 by itself, but doing that 1 step vs the 2 step on the other side it saved a lot of time and produced great results. Here's a few pics I took.
Rotary + twisted ply wool pad + M105. Followed by MF D300.
Other side with MF D300 ONLY.
And a side by side shot
This system is truly amazing.
Here's my take on the rotary vs PC...
So I'm workin on the 1962 corvette doing some test sections to find the best combo and I figure I'll need the rotary+twisted ply wool+M105 to cut through the severe neglect. I do a test section and it looks great, but obviously needs refining. So I use the PCXP with the MF+D300 and it looks amazing!
At that point I thought, well lets test ONLY the D300 on the other side of the tape line. I got nearly identical results...so close it makes near no difference. I spent more time working the D300 by itself, but doing that 1 step vs the 2 step on the other side it saved a lot of time and produced great results. Here's a few pics I took.
Rotary + twisted ply wool pad + M105. Followed by MF D300.
Other side with MF D300 ONLY.
And a side by side shot
This system is truly amazing.
#49
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irving Tx 75060
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mmmm lots going on in this thread. Thanks for the kind words guys
Here's my take on the rotary vs PC...
So I'm workin on the 1962 corvette doing some test sections to find the best combo and I figure I'll need the rotary+twisted ply wool+M105 to cut through the severe neglect. I do a test section and it looks great, but obviously needs refining. So I use the PCXP with the MF+D300 and it looks amazing!
At that point I thought, well lets test ONLY the D300 on the other side of the tape line. I got nearly identical results...so close it makes near no difference. I spent more time working the D300 by itself, but doing that 1 step vs the 2 step on the other side it saved a lot of time and produced great results. Here's a few pics I took.
Rotary + twisted ply wool pad + M105. Followed by MF D300.
Other side with MF D300 ONLY.
And a side by side shot
This system is truly amazing.
Here's my take on the rotary vs PC...
So I'm workin on the 1962 corvette doing some test sections to find the best combo and I figure I'll need the rotary+twisted ply wool+M105 to cut through the severe neglect. I do a test section and it looks great, but obviously needs refining. So I use the PCXP with the MF+D300 and it looks amazing!
At that point I thought, well lets test ONLY the D300 on the other side of the tape line. I got nearly identical results...so close it makes near no difference. I spent more time working the D300 by itself, but doing that 1 step vs the 2 step on the other side it saved a lot of time and produced great results. Here's a few pics I took.
Rotary + twisted ply wool pad + M105. Followed by MF D300.
Other side with MF D300 ONLY.
And a side by side shot
This system is truly amazing.
The new MF system has saved me tons and tons of time/product and it really is and has changed the game a lot. I did a wash, clay, and wax on a newer Altima that I take care regularly (so far every 3 months). Has the usual marring from improper washing (quick drive through washes) and fine scratches from abrasive towels. I used D301 and it put it right back to a flawless finish. She was more than ecstatic as she didn't think those results were possible with just a wax she asked for. This system surprises me more and more each and every time. I'll post pics soon to show the difference.
Even with the way the D300 finishes down, I find in most instances it's LSP ready.
Keep up the great work!
#50
TECH Regular
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
there still is a slight haze/ swirls after the rotary. PC with adams products WILL take ALL of that off. NO JOKE !!! Looks way better though. Great but not the best results havent yet been achieved..
#51
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Irving Tx 75060
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My PC is my mule. It does most of my brunt work unless something crazy comes along. It does fantastic too.
#53
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
Actually you are seeing micromarring from the PC, not swirls or haze. Remember on the right side, I followed the rotary with the PC. My point was that in 1 step, the PC did what the rotary + PC did in 2 steps. So the PC is much more capable than people give it credit for.
#55
TECH Regular
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Honolulu, HI
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Actually you are seeing micromarring from the PC, not swirls or haze. Remember on the right side, I followed the rotary with the PC. My point was that in 1 step, the PC did what the rotary + PC did in 2 steps. So the PC is much more capable than people give it credit for.
PC adams polishes products:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-14-po...polishing.aspx
PC+adams polishes vid:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...Polishing.aspx
#56
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (12)
i stand corrected. But have you tried using adams polishes products with Pc? Much better and faster results. ive been detailing for the las 15 years and its the BEST stuf out there.
PC adams polishes products:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-14-po...polishing.aspx
PC+adams polishes vid:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...Polishing.aspx
PC adams polishes products:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-14-po...polishing.aspx
PC+adams polishes vid:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...Polishing.aspx
#58
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Tyler, Tx
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also, Steve @ Tropicare is still around, he does good work.
You don't want some loser with a buffer touching your car.
#60
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Tyler, Tx
Posts: 1,374
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well its all a judge of opinon. I can get anywhere from 200-400 a car depending on what i do. But if you dont feel like youre going to take care of teh vehicle after its done id tell u not to spend the 200 in the first place. People buy PCs all the time n call themselves detailers but unless you have a rotory youre limited on what you can correct. if you polish out with a PC it shouldnt take too long but some of teh rotorys out there are pretty heavy compared to a PC.
so its all just a prefrence on wht youre willing to pay but remember you get what you pay for.
so its all just a prefrence on wht youre willing to pay but remember you get what you pay for.