Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

Is getting your car detailed worth $200+?

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Old 06-14-2011, 09:10 AM
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^ I think regional location will dictate what you can charge as well. In a area that is not as wealthy I would assume you can only charge so much based on the avalible market.
Old 06-14-2011, 09:19 AM
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Well its all a judge of opinon. I can get anywhere from 200-400 a car depending on what i do. But if you dont feel like youre going to take care of teh vehicle after its done id tell u not to spend the 200 in the first place. People buy PCs all the time n call themselves detailers but unless you have a rotory youre limited on what you can correct. if you polish out with a PC it shouldnt take too long but some of teh rotorys out there are pretty heavy compared to a PC.

so its all just a prefrence on wht youre willing to pay but remember you get what you pay for.
Old 06-14-2011, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by BadCompany VP WS6
For a wash, wax, and clay that's pretty damn expensive. I can't justify charging people for that little of work.
thats what they get in my area....anywhere from 125-225 and it doesnt do **** for the paint. a full paint correction which there is only 1 place in massachusetts that i would recommend is around 60 hr but they dont use a porter cable its a actual polisher. thats why i hate massachusetts sometimes its so ******* expensive for anything out here
Old 06-14-2011, 01:25 PM
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I do detailing as a side business and $200 is well worth it...of course...it depends on what is done to the car (basic wash and wax, paint correction, and level of detail), what products (most shops use cheapest products to make more profit) on the car and what condition the car is in and especially color (black would cost the most). for $200 I would wash the car, clay, vaccum interior, detail dash, door trim, consol, minor swirl/ scratch removal, polish and wax, detail tires, clean rims, polish any metal (exhaust tips, rims, trim) For show quality detailing ill charge anywhere from $350-500 depending on color, condition of paint and interior, and what needs to be done.

I use nothing but http://www.adamspolishes.com/ products. Absolutely the BEST detailing products on earth. Try it, you will NOT be disappointed. Jay Leno uses this stuff on his extensive multi-million dollar car collection.

Last edited by 808z28camaro; 06-14-2011 at 01:31 PM.
Old 06-14-2011, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 02gangsta/ss
thats what they get in my area....anywhere from 125-225 and it doesnt do **** for the paint. a full paint correction which there is only 1 place in massachusetts that i would recommend is around 60 hr but they dont use a porter cable its a actual polisher. thats why i hate massachusetts sometimes its so ******* expensive for anything out here
I charge 45/hr for paint correction, so I understand what you're getting at.

I was just saying for wash, clay, wax and cleaning up the exterior, $200 is steep.

The Porter cable is more than cable of handling it's own. Every tool has it's place though.
Old 06-14-2011, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 6']['9
People buy PCs all the time n call themselves detailers but unless you have a rotory youre limited on what you can correct. remember you get what you pay for.
I beg to differ X 1,000,000. PC are one of the best buffers out there due to its random orbit movement. It can get all angles of scratches, swirls, haze. Ive done pretty hardcore/ severe paint corrections with a pc with Adams Polishes Severe Swirl & Haze Remover and green buffing pad. Best thing, you will NOT burn paint. PC+great product+experienced hands=almost endless paint correction ability. My question to you is, Have you used a PC, correctly? If not, dont knock it till you try it...correctly with the the right products that is. Since im a sub-distributor of adams polishes products and PC Ive got several paint shops/ detail shops locally to switch over to a PC. Of course they were like you, a non-believer. all I had to do to get them to switch over is a Demo right in front of them on a sub-standard Black car with a need for paint correction (major swirls, and oxidation, a few scratches). Ive never seen Jaw drops like theirs.

Originally Posted by BadCompany VP WS6
The Porter cable is more than cable of handling it's own. Every tool has it's place though.
I agree 110%

Last edited by 808z28camaro; 06-14-2011 at 02:28 PM.
Old 06-14-2011, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 808z28camaro
I beg to differ X 1,000,000. PC are one of the best buffers out there due to its random orbit movement. It can get all angles of scratches, swirls, haze. Ive done pretty hardcore/ severe paint corrections with a pc with Adams Polishes Severe Swirl & Haze Remover and green buffing pad. Best thing, you will NOT burn paint. PC+great product+experienced hands=almost endless paint correction ability. My question to you is, Have you used a PC, correctly? If not, dont knock it till you try it...correctly with the the right products that is. Since im a sub-distributor of adams polishes products and PC Ive got several paint shops/ detail shops locally to switch over to a PC. Of course they were like you, a non-believer. all I had to do to get them to switch over is a Demo right in front of them on a sub-standard Black car with a need for paint correction (major swirls, and oxidation, a few scratches). Ive never seen Jaw drops like theirs.

I agree 100%. after owning and using both. i produce better results with the PC. and dont ever burn the paint. paint burn is my biggest pet peeve when looking at cars that have been detailed. even the most experienced detail can burn it with a rotary.
Old 06-14-2011, 08:53 PM
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Mmmm lots going on in this thread. Thanks for the kind words guys



Here's my take on the rotary vs PC...









So I'm workin on the 1962 corvette doing some test sections to find the best combo and I figure I'll need the rotary+twisted ply wool+M105 to cut through the severe neglect. I do a test section and it looks great, but obviously needs refining. So I use the PCXP with the MF+D300 and it looks amazing!

At that point I thought, well lets test ONLY the D300 on the other side of the tape line. I got nearly identical results...so close it makes near no difference. I spent more time working the D300 by itself, but doing that 1 step vs the 2 step on the other side it saved a lot of time and produced great results. Here's a few pics I took.




Rotary + twisted ply wool pad + M105. Followed by MF D300.











Other side with MF D300 ONLY.












And a side by side shot






This system is truly amazing.
Old 06-14-2011, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Mmmm lots going on in this thread. Thanks for the kind words guys



Here's my take on the rotary vs PC...









So I'm workin on the 1962 corvette doing some test sections to find the best combo and I figure I'll need the rotary+twisted ply wool+M105 to cut through the severe neglect. I do a test section and it looks great, but obviously needs refining. So I use the PCXP with the MF+D300 and it looks amazing!

At that point I thought, well lets test ONLY the D300 on the other side of the tape line. I got nearly identical results...so close it makes near no difference. I spent more time working the D300 by itself, but doing that 1 step vs the 2 step on the other side it saved a lot of time and produced great results. Here's a few pics I took.




Rotary + twisted ply wool pad + M105. Followed by MF D300.











Other side with MF D300 ONLY.












And a side by side shot






This system is truly amazing.
VERY NICE!
The new MF system has saved me tons and tons of time/product and it really is and has changed the game a lot. I did a wash, clay, and wax on a newer Altima that I take care regularly (so far every 3 months). Has the usual marring from improper washing (quick drive through washes) and fine scratches from abrasive towels. I used D301 and it put it right back to a flawless finish. She was more than ecstatic as she didn't think those results were possible with just a wax she asked for. This system surprises me more and more each and every time. I'll post pics soon to show the difference.

Even with the way the D300 finishes down, I find in most instances it's LSP ready.

Keep up the great work!
Old 06-15-2011, 12:34 AM
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there still is a slight haze/ swirls after the rotary. PC with adams products WILL take ALL of that off. NO JOKE !!! Looks way better though. Great but not the best results havent yet been achieved..
Old 06-15-2011, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 808z28camaro
there still is a slight haze/ swirls after the rotary. PC with adams products WILL take ALL of that off. NO JOKE !!! Looks way better though. Great but not the best results havent yet been achieved..
Well of course. He said stated there was still another step needed to achieve the desired results. He's a seasoned veteran so he knows this. He was just showing how well the D300 and the MF system does compared to a rotary.

My PC is my mule. It does most of my brunt work unless something crazy comes along. It does fantastic too.
Old 06-15-2011, 09:36 AM
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Detail your own damn car lol.
Old 06-15-2011, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 808z28camaro
there still is a slight haze/ swirls after the rotary. PC with adams products WILL take ALL of that off. NO JOKE !!! Looks way better though. Great but not the best results havent yet been achieved..
Actually you are seeing micromarring from the PC, not swirls or haze. Remember on the right side, I followed the rotary with the PC. My point was that in 1 step, the PC did what the rotary + PC did in 2 steps. So the PC is much more capable than people give it credit for.
Old 06-15-2011, 10:39 AM
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I would just do it myself and save the 200 for something else!
Old 06-15-2011, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Actually you are seeing micromarring from the PC, not swirls or haze. Remember on the right side, I followed the rotary with the PC. My point was that in 1 step, the PC did what the rotary + PC did in 2 steps. So the PC is much more capable than people give it credit for.
i stand corrected. But have you tried using adams polishes products with Pc? Much better and faster results. ive been detailing for the las 15 years and its the BEST stuf out there.

PC adams polishes products:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-14-po...polishing.aspx

PC+adams polishes vid:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...Polishing.aspx
Old 06-15-2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 808z28camaro
i stand corrected. But have you tried using adams polishes products with Pc? Much better and faster results. ive been detailing for the las 15 years and its the BEST stuf out there.

PC adams polishes products:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/c-14-po...polishing.aspx

PC+adams polishes vid:
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-Detai...Polishing.aspx
Yes, I have. And they are good, but they do not stack up to the compounds and polishes by the main players.... Menzerna and Meguiars. I've never seen a pro using them for correction.
Old 06-15-2011, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Yes, I have. And they are good, but they do not stack up to the compounds and polishes by the main players.... Menzerna and Meguiars. I've never seen a pro using them for correction.
Hit it right on the head.

Old 06-15-2011, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ANTICOP RAM AIR
I would pay that... Anyone know who does this in the D/FW area? That black is slick as hell...
Nick Chapman is still in the DFW area I believe... He's good.

Also, Steve @ Tropicare is still around, he does good work.

You don't want some loser with a buffer touching your car.
Old 06-15-2011, 01:38 PM
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My very first detail with adams products and I am by no means close to a pro!



Old 06-15-2011, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 6']['9
Well its all a judge of opinon. I can get anywhere from 200-400 a car depending on what i do. But if you dont feel like youre going to take care of teh vehicle after its done id tell u not to spend the 200 in the first place. People buy PCs all the time n call themselves detailers but unless you have a rotory youre limited on what you can correct. if you polish out with a PC it shouldnt take too long but some of teh rotorys out there are pretty heavy compared to a PC.

so its all just a prefrence on wht youre willing to pay but remember you get what you pay for.
I agree with that to an extent, but anything can be done with a PC if you're willing to take the correct steps. Also pad size and polish/compound technique makes a huge difference.


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