Projector fog light housings in TA?
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Yea they sound like they could work perfect for a fog light application without major modification to mount them. Being completely sealed with a protective lens is great being so close to the ground.
Mounting the RX shouldn't be much different then mounting the Hella's. If u modify the bucket seal it with some kind of sealant, then a lexan shroud over the lens with sealant between the bucket and lexan should seal it up pretty nicely. I'm not too worry about this since my car is not a DD or ever driven in the rain.
Yea $315 isn't bad for one of the baddest projector setups. From TRS they supply a clear lens which really helps and if u know how to make a custom shield u can have an amazing system. I'm doing the RX with clear lens, I'm talking to Matt about a custom shield, the 50watt Elite kid they sell with Osram CBI's, should b one of the brightest setups.
Mounting the RX shouldn't be much different then mounting the Hella's. If u modify the bucket seal it with some kind of sealant, then a lexan shroud over the lens with sealant between the bucket and lexan should seal it up pretty nicely. I'm not too worry about this since my car is not a DD or ever driven in the rain.
Yea $315 isn't bad for one of the baddest projector setups. From TRS they supply a clear lens which really helps and if u know how to make a custom shield u can have an amazing system. I'm doing the RX with clear lens, I'm talking to Matt about a custom shield, the 50watt Elite kid they sell with Osram CBI's, should b one of the brightest setups.
#42
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Originally Posted by 00transamws6
Yea $315 isn't bad for one of the baddest projector setups. From TRS they supply a clear lens which really helps and if u know how to make a custom shield u can have an amazing system. I'm doing the RX with clear lens, I'm talking to Matt about a custom shield, the 50watt Elite kid they sell with Osram CBI's, should b one of the brightest setups.
* RX AFS Projectors
* AMP -> D2S Adapters (to keep my current ballasts)
* E46-R Value Shrouds
* Philips D2S 81522+ bulbs (the bulbs are cheaper on Amazon)
I'm just looking for now and not necessarily planning on doing it right away.
Why are you considering a custom shield for the RX?
How well do they hold up to 50watt?
When I installed my Hella 90mm projectors, I removed the stock headlight buckets. The projectors are mounted directly to the the headlight pop-up frame (where the stock headlight buckets where mounted). I still have the stock buckets on a shelf and may use them to make a sealed housing. Hopefully I won't have to cut the bumper for added clearance. Luckily the headlight doors will cover that when they are down.
Last edited by VIP1; 02-03-2012 at 09:49 AM.
#43
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Not a bad price when you consider what your getting. Using the Adapters saves you a good amount of money instead of buying a whole new kit. I'll be reusing the kit I have now for the fogs once I decide what I'll be using.
Doing the right custom shield on the RX makes it better, this is something that is up for debate, don't know if I really need it.
Matt said the RX bowls shouldn't have a problem with 50watt ballast. The car is not driven that much so there won't be many hours on them for quite a while.
The way you mounted it sounds more secure then just pressure fitting it between the bucket and housing surround, something i'll have to decide once the retro starts. There shouldn't be any clearance issues since I know the FX was used without any clearance issues. That is the same depth at 5.50inches but is slightly larger height and width wise.
Doing the right custom shield on the RX makes it better, this is something that is up for debate, don't know if I really need it.
Matt said the RX bowls shouldn't have a problem with 50watt ballast. The car is not driven that much so there won't be many hours on them for quite a while.
The way you mounted it sounds more secure then just pressure fitting it between the bucket and housing surround, something i'll have to decide once the retro starts. There shouldn't be any clearance issues since I know the FX was used without any clearance issues. That is the same depth at 5.50inches but is slightly larger height and width wise.
#44
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The way I was thinking is to make a mounting plate to fit in the bucket where the stock sealed beam was and mount the projector to that. Pretty much how the BLS kit is done. With a formed lexan lens in front and seal the back to the projector.
To mount the projector to the plate, I was thinking of finding some threaded rod that fits into the screw holes that have the screws that hold the front and back halves of the projector together and use a nut to hold the halves together.
Think of this crude ASCII:
()*----*|*
( Front Half
) Back Half
* Nut
---- Threaded Rod
| Mounting Plate
That takes care of 2 mounting points, the third can just go through the existing hole in the corner of the projector.
To mount the projector to the plate, I was thinking of finding some threaded rod that fits into the screw holes that have the screws that hold the front and back halves of the projector together and use a nut to hold the halves together.
Think of this crude ASCII:
()*----*|*
( Front Half
) Back Half
* Nut
---- Threaded Rod
| Mounting Plate
That takes care of 2 mounting points, the third can just go through the existing hole in the corner of the projector.
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That actually seems like the most secure way of mounting it. I believe there are 2-3 screws/bolts that hold the 2 halves of the projector together, there could b a way to get the the rods to thread in the projector. This could very much work. Ur drawing helps clarify what I had been visualizing.
#46
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Looking at the pictures of the projector, there are 2 screws that hold the 2 halves together and 1 hole that goes through both haves. I would definitely recommend having at least 3 threaded rods to mount the projectors (2 using the 2 tapped holes that hold the two halves of the projector and 1 using the through hole).
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That's exactly what I was thinking. 3 mounting point should hold the projector plenty sturdy. I feel mounting a projector this way would ensure exact alignment compared to a standard retro inside of a housing. Having some hardware mounting it compared to just an epoxy makes more sense in my eyes.