TransAmWS.6

I have a couple of questions for all of you detailing folks on here. I'm in the process of really trying to restore the paint on my car. While it's not in bad shape as it is, it really could still use some work to bring out a cleaner, deeper shine. The bad swirl marks are the biggest problem here more than anything, especially on the hood and front fender area. It's from the previous owner not waxing the car and letting the sun beat down on it constantly.

For example, just last week, I waxed the entire car using Adam's Buttery Wax, which isn't really too harsh of a wax I'm pretty sure, it looked phenomenal when I was finished, the swirl marks were barley noticeable, paint looked great. Now, it was fine until just a couple of days ago when I washed the car and dried it with a clean absorber chamoi as it got caught in a downpour on the highway and it got pretty dusty at my job. I did all of this at sunset which IMO is the perfect time to wash a car. And keep in mind, I used Adam's harsher two-step wax application on the paint one other time and it worked great as well, but it just seems like the paint ate it or something once again after I washed it.

It's like I'll pull the car out of the garage the next day after a wax into the sunlight and it's swirl city all over again, especially on the hood and front fenders, doesn't seem like the wax is helping

Any reasons as to why this is happening? I have no idea and I'm considering getting it professionally detailed, my father thinks that we should keep working with it though...

Any input would be appreciated guys, let's see what you all think about this.

HOSS Boss

Have you tried using a clay bar? I have not used it before but I've heard it will get the swirls out. Clay bar when the car is wet, then polish with ultra fine polish, then wax.

'00_Z

iTrader: (3)

If the swirls are light you can try a cleaner wax, then polish and then a good finish coat/carnuba wax. If the swirls are pretty bad though it'll need to be done by machine and will be worth getting it done professionally. Then at least you'll have a clean slate to start with. Claying it will help but is mostly for removing oxidation and surface contaminants.

TransAmWS.6

Yup, I used the clay bar like one week after I got the car, then used Adam's 2 step polish, then finished it off with Adam's Buttery wax. My hands were blue when I was finished from all the oxidation and crap all over the paint. It came out absolutely awesome when I was finished but as soon as it was washed again about a week or two after that, the swirls just worked their way back onto the paint.

That's exactly what the clay bar kit did that I bought, just really removed all of the oxidation and crap, like I said, my hands were blue when I had finished it.

The swirls are highly noticeable in some spots on the car, I have to admit, the hood and fenders are the worst as I previously stated. My father believes that the paint right now still obviously needs work and it's absorbing all the wax and polish we've been putting on it, and it's going to take some time to get the swirls to go away completely. But, if that is the case, why is that everytime I wash it, it looks the same as it did before it was ever even thought of being waxed/polished?

Getting it professionally detailed is looking good right now to me though man, I don't know whether I should listen to what my Dad is telling me or whether I should bite the bullet and get it detailed.

HOSS Boss

Check out autogeek.net it looks like they know what they're doing.

92SilverSHO

iTrader: (3)

probably need the 2 bucket method i would say.

BadCompany VP WS6

iTrader: (6)

This is false. Clay bar will NOT remove any swirls. It will, however, remove embedded fall out, bug guts, tar, etc.

To remove the swirls you're going to need a machine ( I recommend a Porter Cable since you're a novice) to remove them.

Also, just remember anytime you're touching your car you have a great chance of marring/scratching the finish. My suggestion, pick up a quality waffle weave drying towel from Meguiars or Adams or whatever your fancy is. I use Meguiars and they work great at pulling the water and holding over 2 times their weight. The most important thing is that it shouldn't induce any imperfections into the finish if done properly. That absober is not junk, but I only use them for unpainted finishes such as the wheels, windows etc. So keep that in mind.

There is so much bad information out there so get on a detailing forum, take a look at some of the folks who post pics of their work under halogens or a sun gun and ask them a few questions and go from there.

I hope this helps.

BadCompany VP WS6

iTrader: (6)

This is not a bad suggestion at all.

Use a quality Microfiber wash mitt and car specific wash soap. I use the Meguiars detailer line and I and my customers have had no complaints even with just a regular wash and no correction work.

bizerk1

I would say it needs to be buffed , what color is it

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

Liquid glass does a nice job but then again im not to picky about it.

LS1RedZ

iTrader: (19)

Dry your car with a blower vac and a waffle weave towel or one of the REALLY soft microfibers. But dry it until there is hardly any water spots before you use a towel. Thats what I have been doing since we spent 8 hrs on the paint correction. Get some grit guards and do the 2 bucket method.

TransAmWS.6

Thanks for all the suggestions here guys, very helpful. Seems like the two bucket method might be a good idea for the next time I wash it. What I have been doing was washing the car with Meguiars Gold Class soap and throwing in some water all into one bucket and a microfiber mitt and go to work on it. Then I just dry it with the absorber. I have small microfiber towels but I figured that the absorber would work a little better. Going to look into a waffle weave towel though, that seems like it works the best.

So, basically from some of the replies in here, it seems as if I have been wasting my time using different degrees and intensities of wax and polish on the car and it really needs a porter cable or buffer to get rid of the swirls permanently? Is there really no other way around this where I could get them out by hand?

Joshu

iTrader: (1)

You say you really want to fix up your paint. Invest (and it does pay you back when it comes time to sell the vehicle) on a porter cable buffer, pads, microfiber towels, and some good compounds. Then come thank me in two months. Honestly, the best thing I've ever done for my cars. If you're scared about using it, some youtube videos should set your mind at ease.

Should run you about $250. Well worth it.

HOSS Boss

Sorry for the bad info on the clay bar! I just looked it up last night, BadCompany VP is correct. I've never heard of the 2 bucket method and now that I think about it, it just makes sense...

Anyway, a buffer wheel would be a good investment for you right now and get a bunch of different foam pads for it.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

If he had not said this alreayd, I sure would be.

What your noticing is something that was already there, you need to train your eyes to see imprefections. The only issue with that is seeing imprefections everywhere. 98% of all street driven vehicles have some level of swirling, hell even garage queen cars never driven have them from the factory.

You need to clean the surface, remove contaminants, and then level the surface. From there adding layers of protection as well as correct washing habits will help avoid re swirling of your car.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Best system ever.

Print this and post near the car so you can reference this.

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=37320

SS LeadFoot

Try Zaino Z-5 and Z-PC you can apply both by hand. Ive never had to use a buffer or pay someone to do it and Ive had the car since 02

BadCompany VP WS6

iTrader: (6)

While that is a nice reflection shot, it's not really showing anything as far as correction which is what he is looking for. You can remove swirls and marring by hand but it is going to take a long time and a lot of muscle. To show true correction you need to take either a direct sunlight picture or use artificial lighting such as a sun gun or halogens. Not trying to be a dick, just pointing it out.

Zaino is good stuff, but again it's not really a good shot to show when it's not a dead on picture in direct light. The bumper looks good from what little we can see and the small 'sun' shown in the reflection though.

SS LeadFoot

Lets see if any of these can help. Tried to get the direct sun in the pics.

BadCompany VP WS6

iTrader: (6)

MUCH better. I wasn't saying you didn't know what you were doing, but just making sure he was getting all the information correctly possible.