Headliner repair...How much?
07-20-2011, 08:49 AM
#1
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Headliner repair...How much? Just got another f-body. This one is a 94 1le z28 with 70k miles in mint condition. The only thing is that it needs a headliner.
How much am I looking at to have a shop repair the headliner?
Don't want to get ripped off and I want it to look as clean as the rest of the car (No DIY)
How much am I looking at to have a shop repair the headliner?
Don't want to get ripped off and I want it to look as clean as the rest of the car (No DIY)
07-20-2011, 01:14 PM
#4
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Watertown, WI
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not sure but I did it last year not to hard.
Measure how much material you need with the board out and you will need 2 or 3 bottles of 3M Spray Glue. I only needed 2, but used them up dry. If you need me to elaborate more on a step let me know.
1. Remove the pillars and anything needed to take the headliner out. Pillars, edging on top by the windows, that rear dome light. I believe that might be all. You don't need to take out the seat belts there should be a slit for them already in the board...
2. Slowly pull off the old headliner off the board.
3. Get a scraper of some sort and get all the old caked on glue off the headliner board. (Most time consuming step for me)
4. Once you're ready to glue make sure you have your headliner piece ready.
5. With some 3M Spray glue spray the middle of the headliner cardboard first, between where the t-tops would be with a decent, yet even, amount and put your new headliner on. Let dry for a couple minutes and move on.
6. Pick one way to go out on your headliner board, left or right. You don't want to do to much at one time. Always let your last spot that you sprayed comfortably dry first, does not take long.
7. Slowly start spraying out and apply the new headliner a little bit at a time, making sure to get into all the curves of the headliner board.
8. Don't try and precut any holes, just when the board is dry take an exacto-knife or something to make your cuts.
9. Make sure you have leftovers on the outside of the board to fold headliner over to the other side to prevent coming up to short and it looking like ****. I left a couple of inches, if what you have seems to be to much, just cut until you think you have the right amount.
10. Also don't overstretch the headliner material when applying it to the board, because it could potentially not stick with the glue on the board and will sag once it detaches from the glue.
Should not take more than a couple of hours. Also when scraping the old glue off the board, don't take to much of the board off with the glue, you need some board left to glue too... It's not hard, just a bit of patience and some elbow grease.
Measure how much material you need with the board out and you will need 2 or 3 bottles of 3M Spray Glue. I only needed 2, but used them up dry. If you need me to elaborate more on a step let me know.
1. Remove the pillars and anything needed to take the headliner out. Pillars, edging on top by the windows, that rear dome light. I believe that might be all. You don't need to take out the seat belts there should be a slit for them already in the board...
2. Slowly pull off the old headliner off the board.
3. Get a scraper of some sort and get all the old caked on glue off the headliner board. (Most time consuming step for me)
4. Once you're ready to glue make sure you have your headliner piece ready.
5. With some 3M Spray glue spray the middle of the headliner cardboard first, between where the t-tops would be with a decent, yet even, amount and put your new headliner on. Let dry for a couple minutes and move on.
6. Pick one way to go out on your headliner board, left or right. You don't want to do to much at one time. Always let your last spot that you sprayed comfortably dry first, does not take long.
7. Slowly start spraying out and apply the new headliner a little bit at a time, making sure to get into all the curves of the headliner board.
8. Don't try and precut any holes, just when the board is dry take an exacto-knife or something to make your cuts.
9. Make sure you have leftovers on the outside of the board to fold headliner over to the other side to prevent coming up to short and it looking like ****. I left a couple of inches, if what you have seems to be to much, just cut until you think you have the right amount.
10. Also don't overstretch the headliner material when applying it to the board, because it could potentially not stick with the glue on the board and will sag once it detaches from the glue.
Should not take more than a couple of hours. Also when scraping the old glue off the board, don't take to much of the board off with the glue, you need some board left to glue too... It's not hard, just a bit of patience and some elbow grease.
07-20-2011, 06:56 PM
#7
I tried this a few years ago on my LT1 and it didn't come out too cool due to the inside curves where the t-top cut is. The problem was that when you stretch the material to fit the curve, it looks like crap unless you some sort of heat source. I ended up taking it all off and took it to an upholstery shop and they did an excellent job for only 80 bucks.
If you don't have a t-top obviously you won't have this problem but it was a lot cheaper to have a pro do it than I thought and the results were way better than I could ever do.
If you don't have a t-top obviously you won't have this problem but it was a lot cheaper to have a pro do it than I thought and the results were way better than I could ever do.
Trending Topics
07-20-2011, 08:44 PM
#9
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Watertown, WI
Posts: 681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I tried this a few years ago on my LT1 and it didn't come out too cool due to the inside curves where the t-top cut is. The problem was that when you stretch the material to fit the curve, it looks like crap unless you some sort of heat source. I ended up taking it all off and took it to an upholstery shop and they did an excellent job for only 80 bucks.
If you don't have a t-top obviously you won't have this problem but it was a lot cheaper to have a pro do it than I thought and the results were way better than I could ever do.
If you don't have a t-top obviously you won't have this problem but it was a lot cheaper to have a pro do it than I thought and the results were way better than I could ever do.
