Actually I was wondering the same thing. Wouldn't the clear coat get real thin and eventually be polished down to the paint? I know you're sealing it every time but wouldn't the buffing with the polish still wear down the clear?

 

I use multiple light sources when doing correction. Brinkman LED light, Brinkman Xenon light, 1000watt halogens, florescents, and the sun. I check the paint with each light source to ensure proper correction.

Yes, if you polish your car too often you will eventually compromise the clear. This is where a paint depth gauge comes in very handy, along with the knowledge of the cutting ability of the pad/polish/compound combination you are using. There is no standard answer to this as there are too many variables. Also another reason why hiring a professional has benefits beyond the cost of attempting to do it yourself for the same or less money. There is the intangible knowledge they posses that will guard you from potential issues like this. Also this is why proper washing and drying is important so you don't NEED to regularly correct the paint.

 

So don't use a high cut polish if it is not necessary. Gotcha

 

Well thats over simplifying it a bit, but yes. Even light polishing should only be done if/when necessary as long as you're caring for it properly.

 

in your opinion whats the best wax/sealant to get the best look in white. I like the deep wet look, but curious as to what you would use to put a show car finish on white.

Also, can you compound in the sun

If you cant tell never been around or seen compounding done, but have my used car lot (families vehicles) and a few friends that need some correction. So, please excuse any dumb or ignorant questions i may ask.

 

Swissvax Concorso is the best looking wax I have, so it would look great on white. I've also heard that Collinite 845 also looks very good on white.

You CAN compound in the sun, its just a very bad idea.

 

LOL, I keep expecting this thread to come to an end but it keeps gong and going. Here's one...........

A customer buys a brand new car. Do you basically tell them not to let the dealership touch it, then to a polish and seal, just seal, or what?

 

Definitely don't let them touch it. Have a pro do it, or do it yourself. Polish if necessary. But regardless, clay and seal it asap.

 

How can you tell if the clear is too thin to take a correction? Do you check every car with a gauge? Thanks. Glad to see the thread still going.


Crap I think this was just asked.

 

The gauge I have only reads on metal panels, so I check those. The rest of the time I just use good judgment. Eventually I'll pick this up when I can spare $2,695.

http://www.detailersdomain.com/Defel...ced_p_169.html


There is no way to see it (unless its VERY close to failure), but after doing hundreds of cars, you start to develop a 6th sense about it, and you pay attention to that. I know it sounds silly, but its just hard to explain.

 

Thanks for doing this btw!

I'm trying to figure out when to use the PC for paint correction vs. the 7" variable buffer with wool/foam pads. I've used the Milwaukee before with 600 wetsand then cut with rubbing compound then finesse II. I feel like that approach was more bodyshop style. I have a PC now and trying to figure out how to use the combination of the two or just use the PC.

On my current black camaro, it needs a correction and I'm trying to figure out which way I want to go after it. Looking for a 3' vs 6" finish.

So the question is if I didn't want to use the buffer at all, would I have to wet sand 600/1000/2000 and then orange pads on the PC with a Finesse II, or some other approach?

This is just a driver, so no need for full show prep, but want it decent without 40 hours of detailing work. Thinking around 5-8 hours.

 

GoFast- What sealants would you suggest for a white vehicle? My current correction on my WS6 has entailed M105/M205 to eliminate almost all of my swirls. I'm now looking to add a sealant and possibly also a wax to protect my new finish. What would you suggest? Is 50 degree weather too cold to apply these products? (Chicago weather) I also wanted to apply some Menzerna Finish Polish PO85RD for some nice gloss before sealant/wax. What do you think?

 

Someone just asked about white, however with such a low temperature, waxing/sealing can be more tricky. Bring a portable heater in your garage and see if you can get the temp up a bit. And as answered previously, Swissvax Concorso is the best looking wax I have, so it would look great on white. I've also heard that Collinite 845 also looks very good on white. You could also try some Zaino Z2pro with ZFX for great durability and great gloss.

Yes, if you spend 2-3 hours working in the 85RD, you will get some amazing gloss, so definitely do that first. Don't forget an IPA wipedown before waxing/sealing.

 

First, let me see if I'm understanding... You used to wetsand with 600 grit and go straight to compounding?? I never finish with wetsanding below 3000 grit. You've gotta refine it more first.

The way I figure out which to use is I do test sections with different pad/product/machine combinations and then chose the best one to use on the full vehicle.

What do you mean a 3' vs 6" finish?

When you say you don't want to use the buffer at all, I assume you're referring to the rotary right? Because a PC is also a buffer. And you're not gonna get good results by doing it by hand. Another question is why are you wanting to wetsand, and especially SO aggressively? 600 grit is crazy strong. And its not a good idea to wetsand factory paint on a daily driver, its just too thin. It can be done, but there are downsides for a daily driver.

If you only have 5-8 hours, you don't have time to wetsand properly. A full wetsand takes me 30-50 hours. Body shops do it in a fraction of the time and they miss a TON of areas, leave sanding marks, DA pigtails, or burn through the paint on edges, all while leaving horrendous buffer trails and holograms. This is why I take so much time to do it correctly.

If you only have a few hours, hit it with M105 and M205 on LC orange and LC white (or black, depending on how soft your paint is...but either should be fine).

 

yes sorry - lived next door to a body guy in my youth. he painted cars out of his garage, so I'd hang out there. He would wetsand 600, then milwaukee 7" with rubbing compound and wool pad. then finish off with Finesse II. That's basically what I learned.

In the last few years, I bought a PC and figured it was gentler/easier to control and that I could get better shine results without risking burning up the paint.

When I say 3' = I mean it looks good/decent from 3 feet away, not really up close and personal as the perfection you pull off. I just don't have 100 hours to prioritize on this task right now.

so on wetsanding, you say start at 1000? and work up from there? I'll get the m105/m205 and go from there.

thanks again!

 

Why do you want to wetsand it?

 

Primarily because of the various surface scratches into the clear coat. I figure it would be easier to wet sand those panels than try to cut it all with the compound? Hadn't thought about trying it without the wet sand...

 

You should try the least aggressive method first. Especially if you're a novice to wetsanding.

 

Thats like repainting because your car is dirty. Wetsanding is a LAST RESORT method. Polish it first.

 

will do... thanks for the tips! I ordered the m105/m205, should have it by weekend.