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I've seen guys use a blower (not like a leaf blower, but one for automobiles) coupled with a good microfiber towel. Another alternate is a waffle weave dry towel available at Autogeek and similar.
I have the cobra gold waffle weave it seems to marre my paint, going to invest into a CG blower most likely, less to touch the paint the better.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, KY
how much m105 do you use for a 2'x2' section after the pad is primed? this is with 5.5" orange CCS pads. I have found that the m105 is drying out before i can complete 4-5 passes on the section and I am wondering if I am using enough product. Thanks
I have always put 3 dots in a triangle form (like connect the dots) on my pads, regardless of what I am applying. I used to put an X but found it was always way too much. Each dot I would say is smaller than a dime.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, KY
What I do is use 3 pea-sized drops per application, working at a speed of 5 while using 9-14 pounds of pressure, including the weight of the polisher. I also mist the pad with a shot or two of detail spray to help keep the polish lucid. I demonstrate this technique in all my videos that I do any polishing in.
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Verdad Gallardo What I do is use 3 pea-sized drops per application, working at a speed of 5 while using 9-14 pounds of pressure, including the weight of the polisher. I also mist the pad with a shot or two of detail spray to help keep the polish lucid. I demonstrate this technique in all my videos that I do any polishing in.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, KY
If you have only watched any of my videos ONE TIME, you probably caught 25% of what I put in them. There ain't a novice on the planet that can retain all of the information that I put in my videos by watching them once. There's just too much information. That's why they are so long. I cover every base, including the ones in the storage lockers at the baseball field.
Jeff - I took your advise and purchased some D300 and Megs MF 5" cutting discs. Suprise, suprise, you were right! I was shocked how easily this combo rid my WS6 and it's super hard clear of it's swirls! Unbelievable how much easier it was than using foam LC flats with 105/205. Can't wait to seal her up with some Fuzion and be done for awhile!
I know you've been busy and all but..... I'm dying to see that 150+ hour Bentley tag team detail....! Just sayin..
As always, thanks!
I know you've been busy and all but..... I'm dying to see that 150+ hour Bentley tag team detail....! Just sayin..
As always, thanks!
I have a quick question. I'm working on a car that had a bunch of decals on it. The decals have been removed but in the right light you can still see the outline of where the letters were. Would a light wet sanding take care of that or does it need to be repainted?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, KY
Yes, light sanding can take care of that but I wouldn't suggest that YOU be the one who tried it. That requires someone who knows exactly what they are doing. Before I would even think about wet sanding, I would attempt to buff the damage out. That's a lot safer than wet sanding and the right buffer/compound may be all that is needed.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,076
Likes: 0
Yes some one that has never wet sanded clear dont try it. I find that if you get some one with a hose spraying the surface while you are wet sanding and sometimes spraying the sand paper works best. Very light pressure. If you sand to light you can sand more sand to hard and there is no way to get it back.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, KY
I wouldn't do it that way because as you wet sand, you need to stop, wipe the area dry and inspect what progress you've made. You need to do this often as you go so that you don't go to far.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,100
Likes: 2
From: IL
Yes, light sanding can take care of that but I wouldn't suggest that YOU be the one who tried it. That requires someone who knows exactly what they are doing. Before I would even think about wet sanding, I would attempt to buff the damage out. That's a lot safer than wet sanding and the right buffer/compound may be all that is needed.
Yeah I've never done any paint/body work, worked in a shop, restored cars or anything so I probably shouldn't try it.
Wet sanding obviously would be a last resort as I don't know how thick the clear coat is or have a way to check. I have been using the LC orange pad and 105. What would you suggest?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 358
Likes: 2
From: Louisville, KY
Yeah I've never done any paint/body work, worked in a shop, restored cars or anything so I probably shouldn't try it.
Wet sanding obviously would be a last resort as I don't know how thick the clear coat is or have a way to check. I have been using the LC orange pad and 105. What would you suggest?
Wet sanding obviously would be a last resort as I don't know how thick the clear coat is or have a way to check. I have been using the LC orange pad and 105. What would you suggest?
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
I have a spot of black 5th wheel grease on my light tan armrest/door pull. It's been there a couple years. I've been scared to touch it in fear of smearing it around.
What product and method should I use to get it out?
What product and method should I use to get it out?