The Proper Cleaning of the LSx engine bay..
Thread Starter
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From: Anaheim Hills, CA
The Proper Cleaning of the LSx engine bay.. Congrats to Fenix.. his post made me realize how much this question comes up (over and over and over) 
So its time for a sticky.. So contribute USEFULL info to the thread.. tips, tricks and such.. posts that dont contribute to the topic will be pruned
What I do..
Remove any parts like FRC's and billet caps, etc (optional)
lightly mist greasy or dirty areas with Simple Green
Loosen heavy areas with a soft bristle brush (toothbrush?)
wash painted areas with car shampoo solution
Rinse with hose
NOTE: Just use common sense.. dont spray high pressure on the MAF, Lid, Coils, PCM and other area.. just rinse them.. DO use high pressure to rinse the block and areas where its obvious water wont do an harm.
I would also (on my engine) pour a gallon or tow of distilled water over the whole deal.. this help with spots on my chromed and polished parts.. but thats just me
Regular guy finish off: Towel dry.. run engine and they towel dry again.. detail to your heart desire...
Advanced finish off: 200mph leaf blower! .. blow that sucker dry and save a lot of time with the towel.. then use compressed air to get all the nooks and crannies dry.. towel off the last drops and detail..
Keep in mind that the engines are designed to be pretty water proof.. we do not have the problems with the Opti that the LT1's had.. just use common sense and remember that even if your not into show, a clean engine is just easier to work on..
So its time for a sticky.. So contribute USEFULL info to the thread.. tips, tricks and such.. posts that dont contribute to the topic will be pruned
What I do..
Remove any parts like FRC's and billet caps, etc (optional)
lightly mist greasy or dirty areas with Simple Green
Loosen heavy areas with a soft bristle brush (toothbrush?)
wash painted areas with car shampoo solution
Rinse with hose
NOTE: Just use common sense.. dont spray high pressure on the MAF, Lid, Coils, PCM and other area.. just rinse them.. DO use high pressure to rinse the block and areas where its obvious water wont do an harm.
I would also (on my engine) pour a gallon or tow of distilled water over the whole deal.. this help with spots on my chromed and polished parts.. but thats just me
Regular guy finish off: Towel dry.. run engine and they towel dry again.. detail to your heart desire...
Advanced finish off: 200mph leaf blower! .. blow that sucker dry and save a lot of time with the towel.. then use compressed air to get all the nooks and crannies dry.. towel off the last drops and detail..
Keep in mind that the engines are designed to be pretty water proof.. we do not have the problems with the Opti that the LT1's had.. just use common sense and remember that even if your not into show, a clean engine is just easier to work on..
FAQ from Simple Green's website.
Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green on aluminum?
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
Aluminum - Is it safe to use Simple Green on aluminum?
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation.
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Brett Foote Thread Starter
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From: Anaheim Hills, CA
So the keys to using Simple Green are:
1. Rinse off quickly
2. Rinse off THROUGHLY!!
3. To be safe you could start with a diluted mixture..
Simple Green (or any other degreaser) is mostly for grimy or oily areas.. if you keep you engine bay clean you could probley get buy cleaning with car soap or even a product like Dawn.
Sound fair?
1. Rinse off quickly
2. Rinse off THROUGHLY!!
3. To be safe you could start with a diluted mixture..
Simple Green (or any other degreaser) is mostly for grimy or oily areas.. if you keep you engine bay clean you could probley get buy cleaning with car soap or even a product like Dawn.
Sound fair?
TECH Senior Member
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From: Gainesville, Denton TX
SSG well stated, I can't handle mine not looking good.
Still need to get all the dressnig off the plastics in the bay from the dealership. (I know i've had it nearly 3 weeks.... )
Still need to get all the dressnig off the plastics in the bay from the dealership. (I know i've had it nearly 3 weeks.... )
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Castaic Lake, So. Cal.
I just did mine, the posted suggestions are right on, been using those methods for years, except I like Gunk foam engine cleaner, it has never cause any problems for me and the engine bay sparkles. Best tool: 200mph leaf blower! Works on interiors too.
Originally Posted by SSG--Z28
I've cleaned a couple of my friends' engine bays, because I simply could not look at it without wanting to hit them!
Thanks for the tips Steve and Co.
This may be a bit specific for this thread, but it is closely related... Does anybody have any tips for cleaning the painted surfaces on a white car, or is it simply soap and water along with some claybar?
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 12,829
Likes: 30
From: Central Indiana Honors: 4th grade spelling bee contestant
I saw one individual at a car show using a can of compressed air to blow out the tight spots in his engine bay....especially where the filter base assembly bolts to the car. Those four bolts are sunk in far enough that it's a challenge to clean them. If the compressed air isn't available, then you can also roll up a dampened paper towel and get the gunk out of those bolt holes too.
I also took an old spray bottle and filled it with water. It allows me to spray in specific areas without getting a bunch of other stuff wet. It works great at a car show when you notice a dirty spot that didn't show up at home.
I also took an old spray bottle and filled it with water. It allows me to spray in specific areas without getting a bunch of other stuff wet. It works great at a car show when you notice a dirty spot that didn't show up at home.
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
From: Castaic Lake, So. Cal.
Originally Posted by Assassin
to protect from water getting to the knock sensors should the car be faced down hill or something?, also.. will the gunk discolor any of the plastics?
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Atlanta
Uhhh I'm gonna have to call horseshit on that. The Gunk Engine Brite cleaner definetly started eating my Whisper lid. Massive discoloration. Didn't see any damage on other plastics though, and it was also corrosive enough to make my 70,000 mile oxidized heads shine like new 
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