SStroked 410

Trying to clean up the engine bay. Plus get rid of some holes that I would like to cover up
then repaint the whole engine bay

thanks

JackZ28

Um, yeah- it's called fiberglass!

SStroked 410

well how can I fill them with fiberglass, explain? I only need about 6 holes filled, never looked in getting fiberglass so can you tell me alittle more about using it
and where I can get it

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Fiberglass the holes in the engine bay? That's way too much work.

I'd just use bondo or one of POR15's filler compounds, then sand them down flush.

JackZ28

You could do that, too, but I would never have bondo on my car! I actually think welding would be the best, and that is what I'd do!

SStroked 410

thats the kind of answer I was looking for
thanks

well I cant just drive the car with it looking like this to do any welding


since the motor is out I have preped it, getting ready to paint now
and wanted to get rid of some small holes. Why would bondo be bad to use to fill a few holes?

JackZ28

I thought you already had the holes filled? I'm just saying I would prefer welding, because that way you'd never have to worry about the bondo flexing, thus causing the paint to crack! I understand though, with no motor in the car!

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

That POR 15 filler compound should be your ticket.

Fiberglass can also flex and crack. The mess you'd make fiberglassing to fill holes in the engine bay would be way too much work for me to consider.

SStroked 410

CANNIBAL

where could I get that at? Any car parts store or would something like that have to goto some kind of paint supply shop?

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

I welded mine. I would use a two-part epoxy such as JB Weld if I didn't want to weld them.

98trans am

iTrader: (2)

we used jb weld to fill the holes and bondo to smooth everything out on my roommate's car.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...31709072JrMfLt

SStroked 410

where can I get this JB weld stuff and how much

98trans am
looks like your roommates car is going to look pretty good once painted, when you guys gonna paint it?

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

Hardware stores,auto parts stores,etc.

I've paid from $3.xx to $10.xx depending on the quantity.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

You won't get a filler to stay in a sheet metal
hole without some backing. Blind holes in thick
metal is another story. You would probably want
to to the 'glas, just as structural backing, from
the backside where accessible, something like a
postage-stamp-sized piece impregnated with
epoxy (I would use System West marine stuff,
not the polystyrene crap you get at DiscoZone
and Wal-Mart) set onto a piece of that aluminum
air conditioning ductwork tape, then it's stick-and-
forget and hardens up in an hour or so; after set,
a little bit of fine filler and like that. The random
mat, thicker than the woven, is probably better
(stiffer when done).

DopeFedZ

iTrader: (34)

I used some industrial strength two part epoxy my dad brought from his job. I did have to use a backing for some of the larger holes to get one thin layer to stick and fill in the hole, then I just applied another layer and sanded it down flush. Here are a couple of pics primered it is currently at the body shop getting painted black.

ricker6869

iTrader: (2)

To save time an hassle...I would just use some prepainted (to match ) round top bolts ( the smooth kind ) and put them in with a nut behind each. Stainless steel or zinc coated would prevent rusting or discoloring.

Ricker

Cheatin' Chad

iTrader: (3)

I coated mine with POR15 silver after I filled the holes. I will be painting the engine bay black when I remove the engine. I just wanted to make sure things didn't get all rusted up in the mean time.

LS1ruben

I used bondo quik fix

http://www.bondo-online.com/catalog_...sp?itemNbr=702

very easy to use. comes straight out of the can. took 5 minutes to fill all of the holes. Let dry for two days then painted. Has held for over two years. Best part is the can is like 4 bucks from wal mart.