robs98mysticz

WOW is all i can say..Great job

Skymaira

iTrader: (1)

Great work man

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Thanks for the compliments.

DrBlockHed

Jay, I've been following your threads and the Ask a detailer thread. i have a white TA that I'm going to do my first full correction on. It's not terrible, but I know it needs a good amount of time spent on it. It def has a slight yellowish tinge to it, after looking at what you did to this white mustang I'm ready to go at my TA and see what happens. You seem to really like Iron X, for a white car, sounds pretty much like a necessity, I'm going to guess you would highly recommend I use it? Is there anything else that could be used in it's place? (I'm thinking Sonax/Adam's DWC since they both bleed but I don't know if there really are any other similarities)

Thanks for the time, you (like Jeff did for you) have helped me learn a lot thus far and I'm eager to really put what I learned to the test

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Yes I would recommend using Iron X, there are a few other products out there that do the same thing but I haven't used them. A friend of mine who's big into Adams products said some people use the DWC on paint. I can't comment either way on that. But if you look at the cost of Sonax/DWC vs. Iron X it would be cheaper to use the Iron X.

I recommend Iron X or similar product for any color car not just white. I did a black Denali a couple months ago that bled purple for a long time, you just couldn't see it till it hit the floor.

You want your paint as clean as possible before you start correcting it so all that nasty stuff doesn't get in your pad and cause even more damage.

Also a thorough decon removal will help your wax/sealant bond to your paint better and will last longer.

If I haven't mentioned, Iron X freakin STINKS. The smell reminds me of when my mom would get her hair permed when I was a kid.

I'm glad I've been able to help you out.

DrBlockHed

How many bottles should i get to do the car? Will one be plenty or should I go with 2 to be on the safe side? Is the decon (iron x/claying) what will get rid of the yellowish tint?

Thanks again

egott_91

iTrader: (1)

Adams DWC can be used as a decon. Idk how much IronX costs, but I know that the DWC isn't cheap. On an extremely bad vehicle you could probably use just about all of the 36 oz bottle.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I would get the 1000ml bottle of Iron X which is $32.99. This Mustang was so bad I used almost the whole bottle. However I did an Escalade a few months ago and only used half a bottle, it just depends on how bad your car is. I would get the bigger bottle just to be safe, its better to have some left over than finding yourself you need more.

http://www.carpro-us.com/decontaminate/

The decon process will get ride of a majority of the yellowish tint. Compounding/polishing will get rid of any oxidation on the paint.

DrBlockHed

Jay, not looking to start anything, I looked at the Iron X and the DWC, the DWC is actually cheaper. The Iron X 1000 ml (which is slightly less than 34 oz is 32.99, the DWC 36 oz is $30 plus a 10% discount). I figure you get better pricing since you buy a lot more product so you probably get Iron X even cheaper, just thought I'd share.

Thanks again for your help

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Np man. I was just sharing my experience. I haven't used DWC on paint so I didn't feel comfortable saying its OK to use on it or how much you would use compared to Iron X.

Screamin_99

iTrader: (5)

Jay, nice work man, that car turned out really good for what it was.

I had a few questions about the FG400.. What pad where you polishing with it on? Does it work well enough so that you could maybe use it alone and then finish with a LSP after? I know with the PC to cut out decent marks you would need to come back with a ligther cutting pad, because it would leave behind micro marring and such that would need to be cleaned up.

Would you recommend the FG400 on a PC or does it not work hard enough to make it useful?

I got a ton of Chemical Guys products. I think I've got the whole V3x line.. I've heard it's a decent line, but there are obviously better products on the market. I have some Menzerna SIP left over. It's worked out well for me in the past, but it dusted a lot on me? Was I over using it, letting it dry up? Or is it just that dusty?

Everyone has recommended M105 and 205.. a Tried and true option I suppose.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I used a Meg's MF finishing disc. I could have went to a LSP after it but I decided to do a second step.

Depending on how hard the clear is and what pad you are using will determine if you need a second step not just because you are using a PC. If this clear wouldn't have been so hard I would have still used the FG400 but would have used a foam pad.

The PC is still very capable of removing defects especially with the the FG400.

M105 and M205 are good and have their place. FG400 has more cut than M105 ever thought about and finishes down very nice.

As far as the SIP drying up its hard to say, you could have been working it too long, using too much or not enough product.

I hope I've answered your questions, if not let me know. I would give the FG400 a try on the PC. You are going to get great results.

quiet_storm98

iTrader: (48)

Car looks amazing...how did u get the exhaust tips so shiny? I want to get mine looking like that. Also the resto on the headlights is amazing

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Thanks! On the exhausts tips I used Megs APC+ 4:1 to get all the dirt off, then used Stoners Tarminator to get the tar off. Then I used Mothers mag/aluminum polish w/ #0000 steel wool, then Adams metal polish #1 on a MF utility towel then Adams Metal polish #2 on a MF utility towel. For the inside I used a brass tooth brush to get the carbon deposits off then Mothers and the steel wool and Adams #1 polish on MF towel.

The head lights should have been replaced but I did it to show how bad they can look and still be brought back.