Orbital Buffer
#41
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Since your an Adams guy here is a video where Dylan actually talks about cleaning a foam pad during the correction process
http://youtu.be/zoH9OxMhL4s
Liljay is just trying to help people out on here so they get the same level correction with the first panel as the last
http://youtu.be/zoH9OxMhL4s
Liljay is just trying to help people out on here so they get the same level correction with the first panel as the last
#42
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Polishing/waxing is not high speed buffing. For polish/waxing go for the HF orbital buffer around 20 bucks. For high speed type buffing, spend the most that you can on a good one. If your paint is in bad shape you will need the high speed. If good shape, buy the 20 dollar deal. Polish then wax.
+1
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#43
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Thanks for the post AWD. I wouldn't worry about, he's got it figured out. He's actually not the first Adam's guy I've talked to that said they don't clean the pads on the fly. His reasoning was, "Adam doesn't show it in the video" I said then why in the hell does Adams sell a pad brush?
#44
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Lemons, completed my paint correction over the weekend. It turned out better than I could have ever imagined. The Harbor Freight DA did outstanding and the Adams products lived up to their reputation. The pads that came with the Adams two stage polish system are the foam pads, and I was able to do the entire car without having to clean them. After the two stage polish was done, I applied the Adams Glaze and Americana Wax by hand. Car has never looked so good. I'll be making a thread here in the next day or so with a bunch of pics.
#45
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Lemons, completed my paint correction over the weekend. It turned out better than I could have ever imagined. The Harbor Freight DA did outstanding and the Adams products lived up to their reputation. The pads that came with the Adams two stage polish system are the foam pads, and I was able to do the entire car without having to clean them. After the two stage polish was done, I applied the Adams Glaze and Americana Wax by hand. Car has never looked so good. I'll be making a thread here in the next day or so with a bunch of pics.
Awesome to hear it performed well, which backing plate did you end up using? the adam's?
PS: did you have to swap out the counterweight? or did it perform fine as is?
#46
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Using a loaded pad is like using a dull knife. Sure you can still cut with a dull knife but you'll get better results with less effort in less time with a sharp one. Considering it literally takes 15 seconds to clean a pad on the fly, I completely fail to understand why you wouldn't.
#48
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If a guy charges someone to "detail" or do a correction and just slaps a bunch of glaze on it covering everything up then I think that's wrong. Very wrong.
Not every defect can be removed. Sometimes it's just not worth attempting to remove it if you don't have a PTG.
#49
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This is what I bought to do my car.
Griots Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher HD <--- powerful DA Orbital
Meguiar's DA Microfiber Compound D300 <--- Cut
Meguiar's M205 Ultra Finishing Polish <--- Polish
Menzerna Super Finish (SF 4500) PO85RD <--- Fine Polish/Finish
Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection <--- Sealant
Meguiars DMC5 DA Microfiber Cutting Discs, 5 inches <--- used to cut
Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Flat Foam Pads (2 White, 2 Black, 2 Blue) <--- in order to polish, finish, and seal
If you do something like that, also get you a set of Cobra Microfiber Towels, the Blackfire Pad Care Kit, and some Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay and Lube.
Then once you get everything corrected, you'll just be using the Menzerna and the Sealant. No wax.
Griots Garage 6 inch Random Orbital Polisher HD <--- powerful DA Orbital
Meguiar's DA Microfiber Compound D300 <--- Cut
Meguiar's M205 Ultra Finishing Polish <--- Polish
Menzerna Super Finish (SF 4500) PO85RD <--- Fine Polish/Finish
Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection <--- Sealant
Meguiars DMC5 DA Microfiber Cutting Discs, 5 inches <--- used to cut
Lake Country 5 1/2 Inch Flat Foam Pads (2 White, 2 Black, 2 Blue) <--- in order to polish, finish, and seal
If you do something like that, also get you a set of Cobra Microfiber Towels, the Blackfire Pad Care Kit, and some Pinnacle XMT Speed Clay and Lube.
Then once you get everything corrected, you'll just be using the Menzerna and the Sealant. No wax.
#51
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I got the glaze because that is what Nick at Adam's recommended I use before applying the Americana Paste Wax. They stated for the ultimate shine and paint depth, to go with the glaze first, then apply the Americana Paste Wax, which is what I did. Overall, I'm very happy with how things turned out.
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Adams glaze is so thin in consistency and I have never once noticed it hiding any defects on any vehicle I've used it on.
"Detailers" shouldn't be using a glaze for the reason of hiding defects, they ahoy of be using them as a product that increases the depth and gloss after the paint has been properly corrected.
#53
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I think glazes are kind of a waste of effort and time if you have already corrected the paint. Helped Jeff(gofast) on Full Corrections and we never used a glaze. The gloss on those cars were always amazing
#54
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My problem with a glaze in general is it gives a false sense of the condition of your paint. I personally don't want to have my car look great until it gets washed then look bad again. Years ago that would have been ok but now that I'm learning about correction and proper paint care it isn't really an option anymore
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We use a Dewalt buffer at work with the 3m 3 step system. Well now I use it, because I've absorbed the detailers job....again. I've never seen a professional with anything else, but those mentioned in this thread seem to be quite popular. I don't know how long they last though, the Dewalt buffer at work has been used every week day for over 6 years, not sure how long it was used before I got there. I know I'm supposed to blow it out now and then but I think I've only done that twice. It's like the ak-47 of buffers, lol.
#56
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We use a Dewalt buffer at work with the 3m 3 step system. Well now I use it, because I've absorbed the detailers job....again. I've never seen a professional with anything else, but those mentioned in this thread seem to be quite popular. I don't know how long they last though, the Dewalt buffer at work has been used every week day for over 6 years, not sure how long it was used before I got there. I know I'm supposed to blow it out now and then but I think I've only done that twice. It's like the ak-47 of buffers, lol.
As far as the 3M system goes, it's what I used when I started out as well, and had great results with it. However, once you try the Menzerna line, you'll never go back to 3M.
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Honestly I don't consider myself all that skilled (5-6 years experience on and off), as I often still have trouble with swirls on black cars. I was never really formally trained, even though I've trained several people and they have done well. Strangely, it seems they are better than me at times. I could really benefit from some sort of detail clinic, I'll have to try to find the time for that. Although no matter what, the space, lighting, and other factors are not ideal for the type of work I feel I can produce. I might look into this Menzerna line, I have wondered how well I could do with other systems.
Been doing a lot of reading and I feel adding a DA might really help. I'm looking for the most rugged one available, I have read some reviews about porter cable brand polishers not lasting long under everyday use. By GG do you mean Griots Garage?
Been doing a lot of reading and I feel adding a DA might really help. I'm looking for the most rugged one available, I have read some reviews about porter cable brand polishers not lasting long under everyday use. By GG do you mean Griots Garage?
Last edited by Marc3.4V6; 06-27-2013 at 11:26 PM.
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I have a separate Maikita buffer that is rotary, but you can change the backing on it and screw on a orbital. Watching videos of the newer orbitals, this one seemed to be more of a violent operation, like a jitterbug, than smooth like a GG or PC seems to be on video. I used it a few times when I first started but ditched it eventually because I couldn't tell if it did anything at all. Would that work on a black car at removing swirls with the right pad and product or do I need t buy one of the smaller 6" polishers? The main painter will be gone next week so I'll have to paint this black Mercedes but also buff it because that's my job now too since the detailer left.
#59
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Not sure how far you are from Fontana but 3D Products is putting on a free detail seminar this weekend or next. And they do them once a week I think at their Santa Clarita facility.
Porter cable is probably one of the most reliable DAs, the griots I know Jeff has had to send his in a bunch of times to have them fixed.
Porter cable is probably one of the most reliable DAs, the griots I know Jeff has had to send his in a bunch of times to have them fixed.
#60
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I have a separate Maikita buffer that is rotary, but you can change the backing on it and screw on a orbital. Watching videos of the newer orbitals, this one seemed to be more of a violent operation, like a jitterbug, than smooth like a GG or PC seems to be on video. I used it a few times when I first started but ditched it eventually because I couldn't tell if it did anything at all. Would that work on a black car at removing swirls with the right pad and product or do I need t buy one of the smaller 6" polishers? The main painter will be gone next week so I'll have to paint this black Mercedes but also buff it because that's my job now too since the detailer left.
I think you'll be very pleased with the results you get from using a dedicated DA polisher, especially on darker colored/black paint. There's really a world of difference in the final finish when compared to a rotary. I honestly wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't gotten one myself, as I was getting great results with a rotary alone, but the DA really took my paint correcting abilities to a whole new level.