"Professional" paint correction
The softer the clear the faster it's will cut but it pushed around quite easy. The changes happen fast so if you tilt the polisher the wrong way, use the wrong product pad, even lift the polisher off the paint wrong the clear is so soft that your minor slip up will take effect. Hope that explains a bit, tried to fire this off quick while at work
The softer the clear the faster it's will cut but it pushed around quite easy. The changes happen fast so if you tilt the polisher the wrong way, use the wrong product pad, even lift the polisher off the paint wrong the clear is so soft that your minor slip up will take effect. Hope that explains a bit, tried to fire this off quick while at work

I would much rather work on hard paint any day....to a point. There are some really hard finicky paints also. Problem being that it clogs up the pad, especially a MF pad. I did a C5 Zo6 several months ago. C5's are known for having hard paint anyway, but I had never ran across anything like it before. Using a Rupes 21, Meg's cutting MF pad and M101 did absolutely nothing. Some people would have used a rotary and a wool pad to knock it down but I'm not a rotary guy and I'm not going to practice on a customers car, lol.
As strange as it sounds, what worked was a Meg's cutting MF disc and A LOT of M205 on a lower speed. I remember reading an article Kevin Brown wrote several years ago about alternative polishing methods. What I believe was happening was the M101 had "too much" cut and the abraded paint was basically glazing over the MF pad rendering it useless. M205 is normally considered a "polish". It's thin, has a ridiculous amount of work time and has lots of lubricants in it "I can't think of the technical term at the moment" Using a large of amount of M205 kept the MF pad wet and allowed the abraded paint to dissipate out of the MF pad. M205 itself doesn't have a lot of cut...but a MF pad does. It's basically the same thing when you wet sand paint. The water is there for lubrication and the sand paper is doing the cutting.
The Gt350 paint was really nice to work with. The Z06 was extremely hard and I forgot my rotary which would have made it so much easier.
Every once in a while I do and use a glaze/ polish/ paint sealant.
What I'm wondering is thoughts on single stage paint if I were to use a glaze then polish then carpro Essence for a ceramic base, would Cquartz Uk 3.0 or any ceramic coating take to it?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Every once in a while I do and use a glaze/ polish/ paint sealant.
What I'm wondering is thoughts on single stage paint if I were to use a glaze then polish then carpro Essence for a ceramic base, would Cquartz Uk 3.0 or any ceramic coating take to it?
Essence will fill in some very minor imperfections as it is. Just my .02
Every once in a while I do and use a glaze/ polish/ paint sealant.
What I'm wondering is thoughts on single stage paint if I were to use a glaze then polish then carpro Essence for a ceramic base, would Cquartz Uk 3.0 or any ceramic coating take to it?
Starting point
After
Last edited by 98CayenneT/A; Jul 23, 2018 at 04:43 PM.
I just did my first and it didn't feel right lol. I would probably only do it again in a pinch but I'm definitely not a fan of rinseless washes. And the traditional way seems just as efficient but does light years better job.
I just did my first and it didn't feel right lol. I would probably only do it again in a pinch but I'm definitely not a fan of rinseless washes. And the traditional way seems just as efficient but does light years better job.
I will have about 100 ml. of unopened coating and was wondering if there is a good way to store it that will prolong the shelf life. I will not be using it until next season so how long can I expect the ceramic to keep?
I will have about 100 ml. of unopened coating and was wondering if there is a good way to store it that will prolong the shelf life. I will not be using it until next season so how long can I expect the ceramic to keep?
I store all of my coatings indoors on my shelf. I have had opened bottles that were sealed tight of DLUX last for a year. With Cquartz Classic and UK they are still fine after a few months. Same with some Gyeon coatings. The only coating that crystallized on me was GTechniq Crystal Serum Light that was never opened. I had it for 1 year. I have heard people store them in there fridge as well to keep them from being exposed to any air.
Couple questions, on my 01 Camaro I have CCW Classics and they are a pain in the *** to keep clean but look great when polished out. They weren't always taken care of the best probably because they are kinda time consuming to clean all the time unlike a big 5-star rim. What are some products you guys like to really polish up and protect on a wheel like mine? I've used this stuff called Wizards in the past it was like a fabric material that worked ok but can't seem to find anymore at retailers.
Second question what have you guys found to work best for headlight restoring? My 04 G35x work car has some pretty oxidized headlights and wondering what some have found to make them clear up best.
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