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Holy smokes that does look amazing! Curious what product/steps were done previously to achieve this, besides skill lol. Favorite pics are the two from the top shows how perfect the paint looks.
- Iron X decontamination
- clay bar
- Menzerna 400 with buff & shine green foam pad.
- Menzerna 3500 with buff & shine white pad.
- Rustoleum wax and grease remover
Loved the Kamikaze Zipang so much I stripped off the Cquartz U.k and applied it to my car.
Stripped it down with Menzerna 3500 then wax and grease remover then applied the gold.
A couple things bother me about some detailers. One is that a lot use an inferior machine like a Porter Cable and then charge for the hours it takes using that slow machine. Instead they should learn to use a rotary or forced rotation dual action like a Flex.
The second pet peeve of mine is the guys who think that wetsanding factory clear is a perfectly acceptable detailing practice. Factory clear is pretty thin these days and aggressively wetsanding a car to remove orange peel can reduce the UV protection of the clear and may cause damage years later.
A couple things bother me about some detailers. One is that a lot use an inferior machine like a Porter Cable and then charge for the hours it takes using that slow machine. Instead they should learn to use a rotary or forced rotation dual action like a Flex.
The second pet peeve of mine is the guys who think that wetsanding factory clear is a perfectly acceptable detailing practice. Factory clear is pretty thin these days and aggressively wetsanding a car to remove orange peel can reduce the UV protection of the clear and may cause damage years later.
I myself use a rotary for cutting quite often and a rotary definitely gives you a better gloss.
With that said, as far as cutting ability the rotary definitely cuts faster but a 21mm throw polisher with a microfiber pad and the right compound is not far behind as far as time saving.
I myself don't make a habit of wet sanding factory paint and would never wet a whole vehicle with factory paint but I have done panels to a certain point but also take many many paint depth measurements and only on the healthiest clears.
I use a makita variable speed buffer......they work.
Ive did lots of color sanding. But not on factory paint. That **** is pretty thin.
Ya, for factory paint I usually see anywhere from 100-130 microns with primer being around 25 microns and the base being around 25-35 microns that means you have roughly 50-75 microns (.002" - .003") of clear.
On the majority of my corrections I remove anywhere from 3 microns to the more severe **** pounded paint that see sometimes 7-10 microns removed.
I know that when the clear on my WS6 hood was peeling that it looked pretty thin and that was probably painted by hand and thicker than the rest of the car.
A rotary will cut fast for defect removal, the only downside is that they tend to sling product around a bit and you need to be careful near edges.
Have any of you guys used the Wolfgang spray coating?
I have not and I have no intention to use it. It does not look that impressive. Check out my buddies waxmode channel on it. He goes by Loach on Autogeek. I would go with Gyeon CanCoat if I was looking for a stout coating lite product.
@The Guz I just ordered some Ethos Graphene Coating and was wondering your thoughts on graphene coating.
If I recall right you have worked with SPS Graphene coating....
@The Guz I just ordered some Ethos Graphene Coating and was wondering your thoughts on graphene coating.
If I recall right you have worked with SPS Graphene coating....
i have not used it but expect Graphene to still spot. I have SPS on my daily driver and it spotted in a month. I don’t know about Ethos but SPS feels way slicker than an SiO2 Coating.
Graphene is still not prime time ready. It’s off to a good start. Also there is not a lot of Graphene in them. Graphene itself is too expensive.
i have not used it but expect Graphene to still spot. I have SPS on my daily driver and it spotted in a month. I don’t know about Ethos but SPS feels way slicker than an SiO2 Coating.
Graphene is still not prime time ready. It’s off to a good start. Also there is not a lot of Graphene in them. Graphene itself is too expensive.
Sounds good, thanks again.
Ya I thought they were probably another year or two from getting it dialed in. The Ethos was definitely a impulse buy but what hell....I will give it a try on my bmw x5 daily driver.
Also, if you have not already, give Kamikaze Zipang a try. I love it. I would never use it on a white at that cost but it gives a pretty wicked look on paint with color.
Sounds good, thanks again.
Ya I thought they were probably another year or two from getting it dialed in. The Ethos was definitely a impulse buy but what hell....I will give it a try on my bmw x5 daily driver.
Also, if you have not already, give Kamikaze Zipang a try. I love it. I would never use it on a white at that cost but it gives a pretty wicked look on paint with color.
Ethos reached out to me about testing it out but I have not heard back from them so for the time being I am taking a back seat on these graphene coatings. Glassparency and Migliore are other brands who have come out with one. One has to keep in mind that graphene is expensive so these coatings have minimal amount.
Have a question for everyone, my wife has a 2019 VW GLI that's "Pure Grey" think it's an Audi color. Anyways it has a lot of water spots (parked under a sprinkler a few times at her work) and luckily I had did a paint sealant on it before this happened. So the water spots are in but not terribly bad as you'd think.
I have the Griots garage DA and was hoping someone has a direction I could go in buying something to remove these etchings. I have some Lake Country pads already a pretty wide variety (Yellow, Orange, White, Blue, & Black) of the top of my head. I've tried with a few Wolfgang Products but haven't had much luck getting the etchings out. I used a bit more of an aggressive pad but maybe it's me being too soft when working with pad and compound. Either way if someone can suggest a route to go would be awesome.
I've used Wolfgang products and less aggressive pad on my Ram Rebel with success but this VW seems a little harder to work with.
I have been trying to get rid of stubborn water spots from a sprinkler system too, and ridiculously hard water. the water baked under the TX sun so these are "baked in". Hood, fender, passenger mirror, windows/t-tops. I started on the glass and have tried vinegar, glass stove top compound, Mr Clean magic erasers, even CLR (careful not to get it on the paint) and none of it did much of anything to get the water spots off the glass. I have been using a clay bar and this helped, some. I have also tried polishing and cutting compound but only by hand. This was able to get the passenger mirror better and some of the passenger window, but after I clean and dry the glass the water spots come back. I am trying something off Amazon for glass shower doors next to see if this works better.
I have had some luck with the clay bar on the fender and hood, it took a long time, but this got it down to being visible on an angle only. I will need a cutting compound and machine I think to get the rest off.
I have been trying to get rid of stubborn water spots from a sprinkler system too, and ridiculously hard water. the water baked under the TX sun so these are "baked in". Hood, fender, passenger mirror, windows/t-tops. I started on the glass and have tried vinegar, glass stove top compound, Mr Clean magic erasers, even CLR (careful not to get it on the paint) and none of it did much of anything to get the water spots off the glass. I have been using a clay bar and this helped, some. I have also tried polishing and cutting compound but only by hand. This was able to get the passenger mirror better and some of the passenger window, but after I clean and dry the glass the water spots come back. I am trying something off Amazon for glass shower doors next to see if this works better.
I have had some luck with the clay bar on the fender and hood, it took a long time, but this got it down to being visible on an angle only. I will need a cutting compound and machine I think to get the rest off.
I've had luck with clay-baring and using a lighter compound, but this VW seems to be a lot more difficult to work with. I find it interesting just how much the German, American, and Asian car manufactures can be when it comes to the factory paints. I might try a more aggressive compound and pad as I also think it might be me not working the DA hard enough in getting out these spots.
Have a question for everyone, my wife has a 2019 VW GLI that's "Pure Grey" think it's an Audi color. Anyways it has a lot of water spots (parked under a sprinkler a few times at her work) and luckily I had did a paint sealant on it before this happened. So the water spots are in but not terribly bad as you'd think.
I have the Griots garage DA and was hoping someone has a direction I could go in buying something to remove these etchings. I have some Lake Country pads already a pretty wide variety (Yellow, Orange, White, Blue, & Black) of the top of my head. I've tried with a few Wolfgang Products but haven't had much luck getting the etchings out. I used a bit more of an aggressive pad but maybe it's me being too soft when working with pad and compound. Either way if someone can suggest a route to go would be awesome.
I've used Wolfgang products and less aggressive pad on my Ram Rebel with success but this VW seems a little harder to work with.
What compounds do you have available?
You can put a a good amount of down pressure on the da, work it good lol.
What compounds do you have available?
You can put a a good amount of down pressure on the da, work it good lol.
I've tried with Wolfgang Uber Compound 3.0 and just seemed like it was harder than I remember to work with on her VW. I also have the Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover that I could try but they advertise the Uber 3.0 as the be all end all compound. Sometimes I do feel like the quality is a bit inconsistent when I've order the same product twice. I did use a light cutting pad from Lake Country was the Orange pad. I do have a few of the Yellow cutting pad that they advertise as a med/heavy cutting pad that I could try.
Also I felt like when I was using the compound that I wasn't able to work with it for very long before it hazed then turned clear. But like I've said could very well been me not running the DA as aggressive as I could/should have been. Possibly using more pressure would have yielded better results.
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