When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Getting a '19 wrangler soon and have been reading a lot about PPF. I was never sold on ceramic coating but this seems like it offers real long term protection. From what i have seen it has come a long way in the last 5 years, some parts on new cars even come with it from the factory.
Has anyone tried to install this on their own? The jeep forum does not have many DIY guys over there. I really dont wanna pay what installers want. I have watched a lot of videos and it does not look all that hard.
BrntWS6, go to Autogeek.com. I'm almost addicted to it. You'll learn everything you need to know about automobile detailing. They also have an online store that sells probably the largest variety of products that are on the market.
There are a number of ceramic products, some easy to use, some more difficult. My Daughter and I did her 2019 Black Mustang with CarPro UK 3.0 ceramic coating. Takes a while to do but not too difficult. There are easier to use ceramic coatings.
Oh, If you haven't purchased the vehicle, DO NOT let the dealer sell you on a protective coating, even if they say it has a warranty, its a rip off.
Can someone mess up in any way while putting ceramic coating on? What bad things can happen? Is it fixable if that bad thing does happen?
.
You can not wipe it off properly and have high spots that look like dog **** and is a pain to remove.
Here are two examples of high spots. In the first picture circled in black you see that rainbow look, that will not fade or ware off any time soon....as in years.
The second picture the high spot will also look like a rainbow in certain light but also gives the paint a cloudy un-clear blurry appearance
You can not wipe it off properly and have high spots that look like dog **** and is a pain to remove.
Here are two examples of high spots. In the first picture circled in black you see that rainbow look, that will not fade or ware off any time soon....as in years.
The second picture the high spot will also look like a rainbow in certain light but also gives the paint a cloudy un-clear blurry appearance
Gotcha. So I assume its hard to mess up like that...? As long as you spread it thin when you apply to each area you'll be good? How fast does this stuff dry where its too late to keep wiping the excess away?
I've watched a bunch of videos....seems as if they just wipe it on and keep moving along. I assume you can easily see if you leave too much piled on after you wipe it on....so you simply go over that pile again till its visually gone.....
Gotcha. So I assume its hard to mess up like that...? As long as you spread it thin when you apply to each area you'll be good? How fast does this stuff dry where its too late to keep wiping the excess away?
I've watched a bunch of videos....seems as if they just wipe it on and keep moving along. I assume you can easily see if you leave too much piled on after you wipe it on....so you simply go over that pile again till its visually gone.....
.
I can only really speak of CarPro Cquartz Uk 3.0 but the work time depends a bit on the moisture and temperature. With that said I do not leave it on for more than around 60 seconds. You will feel a very slight resistance when wiping it off. If left on a bit to long you will feel a lot of resistance with your micro fiber.
Most high spots are the result of just straight missing or forgetting to wipe a certain area. Like those pictures.... those were just total misses when wiping clean. Most colors you can see your work but light colors like white, pewter, silver can be very hard to see your work. As long as you are thorough, patient and give yourself visual borders you will be fine. What I mean by visual borders is say... pick half the fender and go to the body lines stopping at the hood gap, stopping at front bumper lines ect. then wipe off. Move to the right and do the right side of the fender again stopping at the hood gap and stop at the fender to door gap, wait then wipe off. Organized and you will be fine.
If a high spot is left it will stick out like a sore thumb in natural sunlight. It can be removed by hand and some compound but is a work out due to cquartz uk being a very hard coating. Best way would be to remove it by machine and some polish/ compound.
I can only really speak of CarPro Cquartz Uk 3.0 but the work time depends a bit on the moisture and temperature. With that said I do not leave it on for more than around 60 seconds. You will feel a very slight resistance when wiping it off. If left on a bit to long you will feel a lot of resistance with your micro fiber.
Most high spots are the result of just straight missing or forgetting to wipe a certain area. Like those pictures.... those were just total misses when wiping clean. Most colors you can see your work but light colors like white, pewter, silver can be very hard to see your work. As long as you are thorough, patient and give yourself visual borders you will be fine. What I mean by visual borders is say... pick half the fender and go to the body lines stopping at the hood gap, stopping at front bumper lines ect. then wipe off. Move to the right and do the right side of the fender again stopping at the hood gap and stop at the fender to door gap, wait then wipe off. Organized and you will be fine.
If a high spot is left it will stick out like a sore thumb in natural sunlight. It can be removed by hand and some compound but is a work out due to cquartz uk being a very hard coating. Best way would be to remove it by machine and some polish/ compound.
Ok cool.....I see. Easy to screw up if you rush it.
Maybe I'll give it a try.
So this ceramic coating, once applied, does it leave the finish as if it just had a fresh clay and good polish job.....except it lasts that way for a few years???? Like water will bead up and/or run right off on day one like it will a year later....?
Do you still need to apply a polish every few months or not.....? How about that yearly clay job....is it needed?
Ok cool.....I see. Easy to screw up if you rush it.
Maybe I'll give it a try.
So this ceramic coating, once applied, does it leave the finish as if it just had a fresh clay and good polish job.....except it lasts that way for a few years???? Like water will bead up and/or run right off on day one like it will a year later....?
Do you still need to apply a polish every few months or not.....? How about that yearly clay job....is it needed?
.
With cars that are not driven in winter or ran through automatic car washes it will last every bit of two years, possibly longer if taken care of. Personally I'm a big fan of carpro products and the line of ceramic products leaves a shine and clarity like none other. Best way I can describe it is like when the sun is setting over a lake and you see the lake gleaming.
After a clay bar and polish it should not be needed again until your ready to coat again. You will not need to reapply a polish or re do it after a year.
Below I will post steps, pictures and my car water shed.
Steps:
- Clay bar/ paint correction
- After the paint correction you will either need to wipe the vehicle down with isopropyl alcohol or use that essence that I posted above. The ceramic needs a polish free bare surface to bond to. The essence I'd the better rout for ceramic adheres to it very well, it's a mild polish, gloss enhancer and also a filler to a certain point.
- Ceramic coat and let cure for 5 days. Meaning do not get it wet.
- After everytime I wash my car I use a ceramic based detail spray. 80% ech2o 20% reload, this gives absolutely insane results for slickness and wet shine or you can buy it pre mixed called carpro Elixir.
This is my daily that has 1.5 year old coating on it and only sees automatic car washes and no detailing by me besides my original job
Here is a water beading video of my car. Has not been clayed in probably 3 years.
I can only really speak of CarPro Cquartz Uk 3.0 but the work time depends a bit on the moisture and temperature. With that said I do not leave it on for more than around 60 seconds. You will feel a very slight resistance when wiping it off. If left on a bit to long you will feel a lot of resistance with your micro fiber.
Most high spots are the result of just straight missing or forgetting to wipe a certain area. Like those pictures.... those were just total misses when wiping clean. Most colors you can see your work but light colors like white, pewter, silver can be very hard to see your work. As long as you are thorough, patient and give yourself visual borders you will be fine. What I mean by visual borders is say... pick half the fender and go to the body lines stopping at the hood gap, stopping at front bumper lines ect. then wipe off. Move to the right and do the right side of the fender again stopping at the hood gap and stop at the fender to door gap, wait then wipe off. Organized and you will be fine.
If a high spot is left it will stick out like a sore thumb in natural sunlight. It can be removed by hand and some compound but is a work out due to cquartz uk being a very hard coating. Best way would be to remove it by machine and some polish/ compound.
To add a little to this, the best way to see high spots are with indirect lighting in most cases. While I'm wiping a coating off, I usually have my LED lights shining on the wall to reflect on the car rather than focus the light directly on the surface. For the lower panels I typically will shine the light on the floor to reflect back up. Certain lighting conditions will lie to you, so be aware to test lighting from several different angles and conditions both in the garage and outside.
98CayenneT/A is right on on the application .We used used CarPro essence as a pre-polish also. Didn't take the time to clay first since it was a new car but came out beautiful on Daughters Black Mustang. Another note I don't think mentioned. If there are any flaws or blemishes before applying the coating, applying the coating over them they will be sealed in and visable.
By the way Cayenne if the picture of the T/A in the garage is yours, that's one beautiful T/A.
Thanks for the responses but I am not talking about ceramic coating. I am referring to protective clear film from suntek, 3m or xpel. It was invented by the military and has now trickled down to the consumer. Most of them come with a 10 year warranty now and can "self heal" swirls and minor scrapes with heat. It goes on like you would apply a window tint and shops want an absurd about for installing it. I have found front end pre-cut kits for around $300 though.
I think ceramic is a waste of money as it does not prevent swirls or protection against minor rock chips, ceramic is essentially a wax on steroids that will wear off.
I think ceramic is a waste of money as it does not prevent swirls or protection against minor rock chips, ceramic is essentially a wax on steroids that will wear off.
- A natural wax lasts 1 month if you're lucky
- A synthetic sealant lasts 3-6 months if you're lucky.
- A ceramic coating will last 2+ years
- Gives a better, deeper shine
- Beads water night and day better
- protects against swirls and scratches much better than waxes and sealants.
- A natural wax lasts 1 month if you're lucky
- A synthetic sealant lasts 3-6 months if you're lucky.
- A ceramic coating will last 2+ years
- Gives a better, deeper shine
- Beads water night and day better
- protects against swirls and scratches much better than waxes and sealants.
Yes I know, but for what some people are paying to have ceramic coating put on ($1,000 - 2,000 range) for something that WILL wear off what is the point? I would say it may reduce swirls and scratches at best from what I have read. But won't protect from improper washing.
Why not put that money toward PPF that will absolutely protect your car from swirls, rock chips and scratches with a 10 year warranty? It also has self healing properties when heat is applied, just use a hair dryer or leave it in the sun on a hot day. Anyway, I really don't want to get into a debate between the two, that's not why I started this thread and I am not going to waste time and money on ceramic.
I am really just looking for anyone that has installed PPF on their own, I have heard it is not that hard but would like to hear from someone who has tried it.
I put Suntek PPF on my daily driver Honda. It's GREAT STUFF and a worthwhile investment if you plan to keep the vehicle or it seems like it's prone to getting a lot of junk on the front. It's super easy to clean, and you never have to worry about scratching it, because it's made to take stones, scratching, bugs, etc. I have no worries using the "heavy duty scrubber" when cleaning bugs off of it.
I had the professionally installed, because of the curves of the hood and front bumper.
I also plan to get PPF on the front of my 2001 TA, and again pro install b/c the TA is the most complicated front bumper ever designed by man.
I put some PPF on the doors and sills where it was flat and that turned out really well, on my black car, for a first timer. I did watch a load of tutorials and had my wife help since the piece was really big and hard to handle myself. I got a set of squeegees, one was a soft rubber kind that I liked a lot. Or use the ones with felt glued on the edge. Make sure to use a lot of slip fluid! Once it starts to stick it's hard to slide around, without peeling it off. You can get it on ebay for pretty cheap so making a mistake with a piece isn't too costly. But curves are really hard.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Anyone install PPF? 
