Paste or liquid wax?
#41
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theres a 26 in a paste version, then theres 16 in a paste version. Ive read that statement about carnubas yellowing paint finishes and i didnt buy it. It seems like everytime i clean my car and top it with carnuba it gets wetter not yellow. I dont know where it comes in about wax build up... im sure the wax is gonna wear off eventually.
#42
Originally Posted by 6']['9
theres a 26 in a paste version, then theres 16 in a paste version. Ive read that statement about carnubas yellowing paint finishes and i didnt buy it. It seems like everytime i clean my car and top it with carnuba it gets wetter not yellow. I dont know where it comes in about wax build up... im sure the wax is gonna wear off eventually.
Actually, the Zaino works just fine, but I like over-kill and wasting money
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The polymer based waxes (at least cheaper ones) have a tendancy to keep everything from getting to your paint. While this provides better protection temporarily than a carnuba based wax, it also chokes the paint. Paint - no matter how old it is - needs to breathe, or it's rate of decay is actually enhanced. Many advances have been made to improve the breathability of polymer based waxes, which is why many people prefer higher quality polymer waxes and polishes, though I prefer to stick with carnuba.
The yellowing effect is due to the other components of the mixture, as well as, in some cases, type of carnuba. There are many types of carnuba (depending on the species of the tree it came from). Using a good quality high carnuba content wax will probably not cause a yellowing effect.
My source for this information is my father who was a bodyman and painter for 40 years, and while this may be a weak source to some of you, he was the only person he'd ever heard of who was a GM Master Tech in Painting (not Mechanic), and if you ever had the priveledge to see one of his paint jobs you'd agree he was a master of his profession. If this isn't good enough, just study polymer bonding.
Country Boy - didn't mean to hijack this thread. Like I said before - use what you like. The one you're using is among the better waxes which allow the paint to breathe, as well as providing excellent protection.
The yellowing effect is due to the other components of the mixture, as well as, in some cases, type of carnuba. There are many types of carnuba (depending on the species of the tree it came from). Using a good quality high carnuba content wax will probably not cause a yellowing effect.
My source for this information is my father who was a bodyman and painter for 40 years, and while this may be a weak source to some of you, he was the only person he'd ever heard of who was a GM Master Tech in Painting (not Mechanic), and if you ever had the priveledge to see one of his paint jobs you'd agree he was a master of his profession. If this isn't good enough, just study polymer bonding.
Country Boy - didn't mean to hijack this thread. Like I said before - use what you like. The one you're using is among the better waxes which allow the paint to breathe, as well as providing excellent protection.
Last edited by 2002BlackSS; 02-11-2005 at 07:12 PM.
#46
Originally Posted by 6']['9
i thought you only needed to worry about breathing paint was after its been painted. I dont think it breathes all the time
Case in point: You always hear when purchasing a car cover, that you should purchase a cover that allows the car to breathe, referring to the paint.
That is, if you intend on having the cover on for an extended period of time.
Take a house for example, in that the wood needs to breathe. Metal/composites and wood are porous materials that can absorb impurities, moisture, and the like. What happens to a house that is totally insulated from the inside? After a few years, mold will build up b/c no air can circulate. Eventually, the painted surface will permanently absorb these impurities w/o the ability to breathe.
Hope this explains it.
Last edited by Firehawk526; 02-11-2005 at 08:41 PM.
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Firehawk526 - Exactly.
In fact, it is in many ways more healthy for the paint to have no wax or polish on it at all, though it then would have no protection from contaminates or the sun. Those, and of course, the nice mirror-like shine, are the reasons for waxing.
In fact, it is in many ways more healthy for the paint to have no wax or polish on it at all, though it then would have no protection from contaminates or the sun. Those, and of course, the nice mirror-like shine, are the reasons for waxing.
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Without constant protection, your paint is subjected to oxidation, pollution, UV, etc., etc. No protection makes your paint unhealthy.
IMO, once paint is cured, it needs to be protected at all times.
I have never had a proven theory teach me otherwise.
IMO, once paint is cured, it needs to be protected at all times.
I have never had a proven theory teach me otherwise.
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contaminates or the sun. Those, and of course, the nice mirror-like shine, are the reasons for waxing.
Without constant protection, your paint is subjected to oxidation, pollution, UV, etc., etc. No protection makes your paint unhealthy.
Last edited by 2002BlackSS; 02-11-2005 at 10:36 PM.
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You had just finished saying that it's more healthy for paint to have nothing on it. Figure out what you are trying to say.
So tell me what "wrong" things are.
So tell me what "wrong" things are.
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I feel there is no more need for me to continue this. I may not have many years, but I know when I'm in a close minded discussion, and I don't plan on defending everything I say - especially when it's obvious. I don't claim to have all the answers in life - or even all the answers about paint. I could answer your question, but you still wouldn't be satisfied.
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I was really interested in what you were trying to say, but I guess I was too close-minded to understand it.
What do you feel are wrong things for the paint?
What do you feel are wrong things for the paint?
#54
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Sorry, I guess I interpreted your wording different than you intended, and I probably shouldn't have added the "wrong stuff" comment in the first place.
Anything that doesn't allow the paint to breathe, or is unneccessarily abrasive, or which may actively cause damage. While I do not have an extensive list because I don't feel the need to research bad products. Basically low quality waxes, polishes, compounds. This can also be inapproriate use of good quality products. Since we were talking about potectants, though I don't want to have people jumping on my back if they happen to like them, I'd think twice about using a turtle product. While you may or may not agree about this example, generally speaking, the answer to what is the "wrong" stuff is supposed to be obvious, given the context.
Yet again, though we have managed to segway from the original post. Sorry Country Boy, though I think your question may have already been answered somewhere back there.
EDIT: Actually, it can be difficult to know which products are potentially harmful, at least initially. If you do about 5 mins research into a given product though, you can usually get a good idea of how it works and people's experience over time. A better example would be NuFinish - the stuff advertized years ago to make the water bead off a junkyard car. I don't want to get into a brand war, though. Most of the stuff used by people on this site is good, and has been used for years with no ill effects.
Anything that doesn't allow the paint to breathe, or is unneccessarily abrasive, or which may actively cause damage. While I do not have an extensive list because I don't feel the need to research bad products. Basically low quality waxes, polishes, compounds. This can also be inapproriate use of good quality products. Since we were talking about potectants, though I don't want to have people jumping on my back if they happen to like them, I'd think twice about using a turtle product. While you may or may not agree about this example, generally speaking, the answer to what is the "wrong" stuff is supposed to be obvious, given the context.
Yet again, though we have managed to segway from the original post. Sorry Country Boy, though I think your question may have already been answered somewhere back there.
EDIT: Actually, it can be difficult to know which products are potentially harmful, at least initially. If you do about 5 mins research into a given product though, you can usually get a good idea of how it works and people's experience over time. A better example would be NuFinish - the stuff advertized years ago to make the water bead off a junkyard car. I don't want to get into a brand war, though. Most of the stuff used by people on this site is good, and has been used for years with no ill effects.
Last edited by 2002BlackSS; 02-12-2005 at 07:17 AM.