tints.
05-28-2005, 02:25 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
tints. hey i got a question for you guys with tints out there. i went to set up an appointment to get mine done and the guy told me that tints don't stick well to the little black dots on the top of the rear window and said he usually doesn't put the tints on that part, and if he does do it he doesn't warrenty it.
later that day i saw a camaro in a parking lot with tints and went up to it to see the back window, and sure enough the tints on the black dots were comming off.
so if anyone out there knows what i'm talking about, let me know about your experience with it so i can decide what to do.
oh, and pics would be nice.
later that day i saw a camaro in a parking lot with tints and went up to it to see the back window, and sure enough the tints on the black dots were comming off.
so if anyone out there knows what i'm talking about, let me know about your experience with it so i can decide what to do.
oh, and pics would be nice.
05-28-2005, 02:32 PM
#2
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Kitchener, ON, Canada
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't have any pics, but the tint will have little bubbles in between all the dots up there. You should sand down the dot-matrix before you get it tinted so the film will lay flat on the glass.
05-28-2005, 02:38 PM
#3
Don't sand on your glass. Have the tint guy put black vinyl up there. I had the same problem with the bubbles, took it back to him and he put vinyl on and it works/looks awesome. No one can tell it isn't factory.
Last edited by USMARINE1108; 05-28-2005 at 06:16 PM.
05-28-2005, 04:26 PM
#4
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got tinted about 2 weeks ago and have the same issue. Went back, the tinter said it can take up to a month to dry around the bubbles and if it doesnt work they can fix it. I would just go with a vinyl strip over the dots, should cost about 30$ extra.
05-28-2005, 09:09 PM
#5
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2004
Location: hamilton, Ohio
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah go with the black vinyl it doesnt matter when it dries the bubbles are still there. I got mine fixed for 20 bucks. have them cut the vinyl out and use it as a pattern to cut the piece it works great.
05-29-2005, 12:45 AM
#7
TECH Resident
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Merrillville,In (chicago)
Posts: 861
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It is extremely difficult to get that to stick up there. best case scenario, and the ONLY way tog et it to work SOMETIMES is like this, but it can be done...
get a sanding block, not paper, sand the dots(the block just not have enought grit to make marks on the glass.
take your time and sand it well.
clean the entire window very well to get any ceramic off of the glass.
dry window entirely.
apply tint adhesive, i have some it is clear and has to be applied before tinting on completely dry glass. let it sit for about 15-20 seconds before getting it wet again.
lay the tint on the window and squeegee out, but DO NOT squeegee the dots.
now where the dots are at you have to get the window there extremely hot, EXTREMELY. almost too hot to touch with your hand, use a heat gun for this like always.
and then squeegee out very precisely and make sure the conditions are perfect, u want the film to stick with the first pass and once you squeegee the water out whatever moisture is left should immediately evaporate and allow the tintn to stick. i have done it before and got it to come out Perfect. will try with mine when i go to tint it, however if it doesnt work...
ill be getting vinyl.
get a sanding block, not paper, sand the dots(the block just not have enought grit to make marks on the glass.
take your time and sand it well.
clean the entire window very well to get any ceramic off of the glass.
dry window entirely.
apply tint adhesive, i have some it is clear and has to be applied before tinting on completely dry glass. let it sit for about 15-20 seconds before getting it wet again.
lay the tint on the window and squeegee out, but DO NOT squeegee the dots.
now where the dots are at you have to get the window there extremely hot, EXTREMELY. almost too hot to touch with your hand, use a heat gun for this like always.
and then squeegee out very precisely and make sure the conditions are perfect, u want the film to stick with the first pass and once you squeegee the water out whatever moisture is left should immediately evaporate and allow the tintn to stick. i have done it before and got it to come out Perfect. will try with mine when i go to tint it, however if it doesnt work...
ill be getting vinyl.
Trending Topics
05-29-2005, 01:02 AM
#8
Originally Posted by half-n-half
It is extremely difficult to get that to stick up there. best case scenario, and the ONLY way tog et it to work SOMETIMES is like this, but it can be done...
get a sanding block, not paper, sand the dots(the block just not have enought grit to make marks on the glass.
take your time and sand it well.
clean the entire window very well to get any ceramic off of the glass.
dry window entirely.
apply tint adhesive, i have some it is clear and has to be applied before tinting on completely dry glass. let it sit for about 15-20 seconds before getting it wet again.
lay the tint on the window and squeegee out, but DO NOT squeegee the dots.
now where the dots are at you have to get the window there extremely hot, EXTREMELY. almost too hot to touch with your hand, use a heat gun for this like always.
and then squeegee out very precisely and make sure the conditions are perfect, u want the film to stick with the first pass and once you squeegee the water out whatever moisture is left should immediately evaporate and allow the tintn to stick. i have done it before and got it to come out Perfect. will try with mine when i go to tint it, however if it doesnt work...
ill be getting vinyl.
get a sanding block, not paper, sand the dots(the block just not have enought grit to make marks on the glass.
take your time and sand it well.
clean the entire window very well to get any ceramic off of the glass.
dry window entirely.
apply tint adhesive, i have some it is clear and has to be applied before tinting on completely dry glass. let it sit for about 15-20 seconds before getting it wet again.
lay the tint on the window and squeegee out, but DO NOT squeegee the dots.
now where the dots are at you have to get the window there extremely hot, EXTREMELY. almost too hot to touch with your hand, use a heat gun for this like always.
and then squeegee out very precisely and make sure the conditions are perfect, u want the film to stick with the first pass and once you squeegee the water out whatever moisture is left should immediately evaporate and allow the tintn to stick. i have done it before and got it to come out Perfect. will try with mine when i go to tint it, however if it doesnt work...
ill be getting vinyl.
06-02-2005, 09:55 PM
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i know a place that actually uses an airbrush that they use over those so it doesn't bubble, guess it would look the same as vinyl but I saw a guy that had it done to his TA and it looked good
