No for real, do you have any pics? 
Body work Guru's wanted!
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 533
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From: Tinley Park, IL
Body work Guru's wanted! I have my lil brothers Jeep and my mohters Altima. For some reason, both cars have a bit of a problem. The side moldings are coming loose. I was just wondering what you guys would use to fix this problem. I was thinking of some kind of glue and clamp it over night or something. Thanks in advance!
Jon
Jon
There is 2 different ways to get those back on. 1, take off the molding completely, remove the double sided tape from both the vehicle and molding, clean really good, retape, and reinstall. Or option 2, as stated above, 3m's adhesive put on the old double sided tape. press onto the door, apply masking tape to hold it down to the panel, and let dry at least 24hrs. Option 2 is a temporary repair only.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,755
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From: Houma, LA
Yep, that emblem adhesive is some bad ****. We just put a $10k paint job on a 66 Mustang, and we used emblem adhesive to reinstall the emblems. The guy installing the emblems used a little too much adhesive on one badge, and it started eating through the paint. We had to touch it up, so it' s a good thing that it was on the bottom of one of the side fender emblems. 
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,755
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From: Houma, LA
Absolutely man, it took a month to repaint that car. We had to sand it down to mostly bare metal, multiple times. It took a LOT of bondo work, to repair dings, dents, and bad bondo work from various wrecks over the last 40 years. It took a WHOLE lot of sanding. We used sanded it to metal/old bondo, then put a metal conditioner on it, We then had to sand the conditioner down to metal. Then we sprayed a metal-etching primer, and had to sand the primer smooth (with paper wrapped around a paint stick) so we could spray the filler-primer on top of it. We the sprayed the second primer, and then blocked it slick with a paint stick again. Then came the paint and clear. After it was painted we sanded the clear with 3000 grit paper and buffed on it for two days. It took an incredible amount of work, but it was a fun and rewarding project.
I don' t have any pics, but my boss took a bunch with his camera, I' ll see if I can get him to put them on a disc for me. The color we painted is the original "Emberglow," think of a somewhat tarnished newer penny, ya know the darker, but still shiny copper? Wouldn' t have been my color of choice, but it came out really nice. The clear is so slick you can actually look through it and see the texcture of the paint! I' ll post pics as soon as I can get some.
I don' t have any pics, but my boss took a bunch with his camera, I' ll see if I can get him to put them on a disc for me. The color we painted is the original "Emberglow," think of a somewhat tarnished newer penny, ya know the darker, but still shiny copper? Wouldn' t have been my color of choice, but it came out really nice. The clear is so slick you can actually look through it and see the texcture of the paint! I' ll post pics as soon as I can get some.
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Millbrook, AL
Kewl! I can't wait to see a pic. I painted my car that color as well...Then I put 10 coats of clear with pearl mixed in and you see what happend...My flames are pink and my paint is purple. Oh well, It was a learning xperance and my wife got a car out of the deal. I was going to give it to her anyway just not so soon. I still need to wet sand it and buff it.