Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

FYI on the LED Interior kits

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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 07:50 PM
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Default FYI on the LED Interior kits

Just finished up installing a blue LED kit from LS1_SS and it turned out nice! In order to do it right (instead of using at hot glue gun), make sure you have a soldering iron and somewhat know how to use it.

For the Speed-O sockets:
I pulled the metal pieces out and soldered each side of the LED to one and then replaced them back into the socket. Once your done, you could mark the side with the resistor and use some silicone to hide everything inside to give it a nice clean look. Key here is to take your time!!! Its not hard to do though.





For the HVAC:
Followed his intructions but used some silicone to secure them in place. Make sure you double/tripple/ quadripple check you have a good connection before buttoning it all up!

For the headlight:
Followed his intruction but you will DEFINATELY need a soldering iron here! I just bent the LED leads to give the proper height, then soldered them on.

I havent tackled the door lights yet and not sure if I will... its a little hard to see that area even with the clears.
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 08:09 PM
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This thread is no good without *night* pics!
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 08:21 PM
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^ yeah yeah yeah.....



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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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i did mine not to long ago but didnt solder and came out good.
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 09:35 PM
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I just ordered 5 194 wedge LEDs for my gauge cluster. Looks like you did a good job!
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 11:34 PM
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is that all the brighter they are?
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 11:41 PM
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I'm sure the camera isn't doing justice to how bright it is. I know when I've taken pics of my gauges, one camera comes out real dim, the other comes out blazin bright.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 04:02 AM
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so its worth doing? i have a sunset orange ss and i cant decide what color to do... not really wanting to do red... so since the camera doesnt do justice what is the red line look like in person and the needles?
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 04:27 AM
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You have to completely remove the cluster to do this right? How long did it take you?

What are the LED color choices?

Looks awesome BTW
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by s.o.m.SS
so its worth doing? i have a sunset orange ss and i cant decide what color to do... not really wanting to do red... so since the camera doesnt do justice what is the red line look like in person and the needles?
I would say its worth doing it. These are quite a bit brighter in person.... even in night mode my camera still reduces the glare from the bulbs so they turn out darker. The Needles are definately noticeable in person (those bulbs are left with the stock white bulbs).

Originally Posted by The Dragon
You have to completely remove the cluster to do this right? How long did it take you?

What are the LED color choices?
Yes you have to pull the cluster all the way out but you dont need to take it apart once its out. The bulb sockets are located in the back panel. It took me about 45 mins to do the speed-o sockets like pictured above but I tried siliconing them in place first and didnt like how they turned out. One was constantly loose so I soldered it and reinstalled it. Tapped on the speed o and another came loose and thats when I took the other 4 out and did them as well. If I soldered from the start it would have taken less time.

color choices are blue, red, and hyperwhite.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 07:29 AM
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I still can't figure out why people would want to go through all the trouble of soldering and/or using hot glue when you can just order the wedge based LED's. Using the wedge based LED's you could easily have the gauge cluster (194 bulbs), HVAC(73/74 bulbs), doors(73/74 bulbs), and shift indicator(73/74 bulbs) on A4's done it less then an hour. The headlight switch is a pain in the *** and for that I like LS1_SS's led, but doing the rest like that just doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention you can just as easily return the lights back to stock if you've used the wedge based LED's. That's not so easy once you've soldered regular LED's on.

Last edited by King James; Dec 22, 2005 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LETHL_SS


Yes you have to pull the cluster all the way out but you dont need to take it apart once its out. The bulb sockets are located in the back panel. It took me about 45 mins to do the speed-o sockets like pictured above but I tried siliconing them in place first and didnt like how they turned out. One was constantly loose so I soldered it and reinstalled it. Tapped on the speed o and another came loose and thats when I took the other 4 out and did them as well. If I soldered from the start it would have taken less time.

color choices are blue, red, and hyperwhite.
Nice. I'd go with the blue as well Where did you order?



Originally Posted by King James
I still can't figure out why people would want to go through all the trouble of soldering and/or using hot glue when you can just order the wedge based LED's. Using the wedge based LED's you could easily have the gauge cluster (194 bulbs), HVAC(73/74 bulbs), doors(73/74 bulbs), and shift indicator(73/74 bulbs) on A4's done it less then an hour. The headlight switch is a pain in the *** and for that I like LS1_SS's led, but doing the rest like that just doesn't make sense to me. Not to mention you can just as easily return the lights back to stock if you've used the wedge based LED's. That's not so easy once you've soldered regular LED's on.
What are the "wedge-based LED'S" and what is the difference in luminescence, if any, from the one's mentioned in this thread?
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 01:13 PM
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anyway to change the color of the needles
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by The Dragon
What are the "wedge-based LED'S" and what is the difference in luminescence, if any, from the one's mentioned in this thread?
http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm

Scroll about halfway down, a little more than halfway actually... it's 1 LED in the base of the 194 bulb, as far as I know brightness is the same.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 01:38 PM
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I've have had LED's from LS1_SS and the ones from superbrightled.com. I'm sure he'll disagree with me, but in my experience the wedge based LED's from superbrightled.com where noticeably brighter and cheaper.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:08 PM
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LS1_SS sells them too? I wonder where he gets his LEDs from. I just purchased from superbrightled.com, they came within a few days. It's too fricken cold out, though, or else I'd go out there and throw them in.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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so can you put these bulbs in place of the corners? like make them clear corners and put the led hyperwhite bulb in?
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:23 PM
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Someone else will need to answer this for sure, but as far as I understand the parking lights you might be able to, but for anything that blinks you'll need a relay or a module to make the LEDs blink like the turn signal.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by meissenation
http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm

Scroll about halfway down, a little more than halfway actually... it's 1 LED in the base of the 194 bulb, as far as I know brightness is the same.
Cool! So there wouldn't be any soldering necessary for the LED'S in the gauge cluster?

Thanks again!
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by meissenation
http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm

Scroll about halfway down, a little more than halfway actually... it's 1 LED in the base of the 194 bulb, as far as I know brightness is the same.
Just wanna make sure I got this right, all I need is 1 - 194 LED bulb for the gauge cluster correct?
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