Bosch E-Code Headlights (LS1 T/A Guys, you want this!)
The install was very straightforward. The lights will come with the mounting buckets and frames, but my suggestion is to not bother with them. Remove the 4 torx screws that hold the front frame on there and take the lamp out just like you would if you were replacing the sealed beam unit. The buckets and frames are the same.
The harness they come with is very very NICE. It's long enough, but not too long. The wires are low-gauge, and the relay setup looks very professional. You hook up ground and power, plug two leads into the driver's side low-beam plug, and power the H4 bulbs with the harness ends. Pretty simple and provides good clean power. Do not connect the high beam lead on the harness, as our cars run highs and lows at the same time. You'd be burning both filaments in the H4 bulb and that's a Bad Idea.
Here are a few photos of them.


And the money shot:

As you can see, it's a nice, sharp beam cutoff. In reality it's damn close to the cutoff on a projector light. Not QUITE as sharp, but damn close. These would be great for an HID conversion, as they would not have any appreciable glare for oncoming traffic. The angled right side of the beam makes for awesome roadside visibility.
All-in-all, it's a GREAT buy. My suggestion is only do the lows and don't hook up the highs to the new housings. The stock sealed-beam highs complement the H4 lows very well. The harness they offer is worth every penny you'd pay for it, as are the housings. It was money very well-spent.
Last edited by CajunCC; Mar 17, 2007 at 10:35 AM. Reason: I suck at the internet...

Ok, really. These lamps put all the light from the bulb onto the road. There's no discernable hot-spot to the light like there is with the stock lamps. It's just smooth even light underneath the cutoff and none above. The result is the road is illuminated VERY well and there's no glare into oncoming traffic.
I hesitate to say they're brighter, because in reality they're probably not any more INTENSE, they're just focussed better, so you get more light where you need it and less where you don't. The overall effect is MUCH MUCH better, but to really get truly brighter light, you'd need to go with a higher-wattage bulb or an HID conversion. The good news is higher-wattage bulbs are cheaper, the wiring harness will support them easily, and the H4 bulb is a standard size and VERY common.
-Brian
I'm considering an HID upgrade at some point. You can be sure when I do it, it'll be here.
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What all exactly did you buy? like part numbers if possible. im really intrested in doing this next
Last edited by Tainted; Mar 16, 2007 at 11:45 PM.
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The kit is a 150mm e-code conversion kit. The part number is HL21000. It's a kit that comes with 2 housings and a wiring harness. The individual lamp housings are P/N HL21001.
My advice for installation is to disassemble the buckets and frames from the kit lamps. Use the existing buckets in your headlights, as they are exactly the same. Use the new retainer frames because they're clean and pretty
(otherwise they're also the same as stock). Removing the buckets from the car is not fun becuase of the spring that holds them in there. That thing is a pain.Remember, these include bulbs. It doesn't say that on their site, so I ended up buying bulbs to go with them. Oh well, now I have an extra set.
Oh, a word on the City Lights. I didn't bother with them at all. They're basically the european equivalent of DRLs. It's a small bulb that lights up the housing during the day. Kinda worthless with flip-up headlights.
I just clipped the wires closer to the housing and let the bulb in there. Installed is a non-sponsor H4 6000k HID kit that I got with a lifetime warrany for $70.00, installed in the Bosch-E housing.
From the pic below you can see the cutoff line is really close to that of a projector. This cutoff line matches that of cars with factory HID's in non-projector headlights, such as the older Acura CL's, TL's, Maxima's, and Altima's.








