Polishing Engine Parts
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
From: NEW YORK
Polishing Engine Parts I used the search but had no luck. Is it possible to polish parts in the engine (by myself)? For example the A/C canister/condenser. I know you can send parts out and have them done professionally, but is it possible to "Do it yourself"? If there is a write up, or any possible way it can be done? I would appreciate it. Thanks.
yes go to any auto part store and get metal polish. i use a wax applicator pad and i rub it on for a few mintues then i wipe it off with a shop paper towl. some stuff wont get shiny, other stuff will. i bought a kit for my dremel that has polishing wheels and stuff, i just need to get motivated to try it out.
I agree. I just got a little jar of the mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish and did the AC condensor and lines last night. It works with just paper towels. I just sampled it too and its half way mirror polished. I'll be going back under the hood tonight but with cotton towels to see what else I can bling out and I'm sure it will yield better results.
Oh, and I did the dremel thing too. It works great on those parts that need you to get in those little crevices, but you'll go through a million of those polishing attachments (at like $2 a piece) if you plan on polishing solely with that. Go over it all with sand paper first and then go back and get those places you couldn't reach with the dremel......then touch it all off with the polish.
Oh, and I did the dremel thing too. It works great on those parts that need you to get in those little crevices, but you'll go through a million of those polishing attachments (at like $2 a piece) if you plan on polishing solely with that. Go over it all with sand paper first and then go back and get those places you couldn't reach with the dremel......then touch it all off with the polish.
Polishing engine parts is easyish if you have a looottt of patience. For items that are already pretty smooth like the ac condensor, a little sanding and some mothers billet polish and walah. Items that have casting need to be worked until smooth.
Here is an example of a project that I have been working on and it just shows that when you remove that casting, It can be beautiful, just needs some time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/667487-some-lt1-bling-bling.html
Mike
Here is an example of a project that I have been working on and it just shows that when you remove that casting, It can be beautiful, just needs some time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearance-detailing/667487-some-lt1-bling-bling.html
Mike
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Gifts Neither Your Dad Nor Grad Will Shove Into the 'Trinket Drawer'
Brett Foote
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
I would just guess, if you start w/anything more than 220ish, you're working far too hard and thinning the materials excessively. So, start about 220ish, work to 300ish, 500ish, maybe 800 then 1000 and on from there, maybe 1400/1500 and then 2000...thoughts?
When I did my calipers I think I started with 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000 or something like that. Just make sure you get as even, and smooth a surface as you can with the paper you're on before moving on to the next grit. By the time you're on 1000-2000 grit the metal will look good as is and shouldnt have any visible lines or pits. If it does then you need to sand more. Just a tip for the A/C canister (I havent done mine yet) it looks like its got a lot of large flat surfaces so a vibrating sander might come in real handy for the most part to speed things up. I might give mine a try this summer 
Originally Posted by Duffster
I would just guess, if you start w/anything more than 220ish, you're working far too hard and thinning the materials excessively. So, start about 220ish, work to 300ish, 500ish, maybe 800 then 1000 and on from there, maybe 1400/1500 and then 2000...thoughts?
