Warning - Don't paint your FAST with Krylon Fusion
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Warning - Don't paint your FAST with Krylon Fusion
Seduced by the name, I made the mistake of painting my FAST intake with Krylon Fusion Superbond Paint for Plastic. This pathetic paint may fuse and bond to some plastic but light pressure with a fingernail strips it from the FAST. Now I need to have my manifold bead blasted before I can start over. I’ve learned my lesson and intend to seek professional help.
Last edited by Gary Z; 04-06-2007 at 10:47 PM.
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Originally Posted by Black02Bird
when they said plastic i dont think they meant polymer type plastics. its more for kiddie toys and plastic furniture. you know, the soft kind
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I filed off the emblems and sanded the surrounding areas. I cleaned the entire top shell with detergent and rinsed and dried it thoroughly. I put down three coats of flat black, letting it dry for two hours between coats. It looked great. I didn't touch it for three days while awaiting delivery of my throttle body. As soon as I started handling it, scratches appeared. I did the fingernail test in the area I had sanded and easily exposed the substrate. The good news is that Easy-Off oven cleaner will remove Fusion superbond. I've decided to leave it unpainted.
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All aerosol off the shelf paints are junk, get a good quality PPG or Du pont base/clear and it will last a life time and allways have that just painted shine. There also not affected by coming into contact with other chemicals like most rattle can junk.
If you dont have access to this type of paint of the gun to spray it with go to a body shop and pick your collor. They shouldnt charge more than an hour or so to paint it. The only prep needed for this type of paint is a good scrubbing with some degreaser and a scuffing pad like scotch brite.
If you dont have access to this type of paint of the gun to spray it with go to a body shop and pick your collor. They shouldnt charge more than an hour or so to paint it. The only prep needed for this type of paint is a good scrubbing with some degreaser and a scuffing pad like scotch brite.
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Originally Posted by LS1Formulation
Or do like I did and spray it down with adhesion promoter first.
#13
Originally Posted by Black02Bird
when they said plastic i dont think they meant polymer type plastics. its more for kiddie toys and plastic furniture. you know, the soft kind
Does any one happen to know the exact polymer used in the FAST manifold? I don't own one, so I haven't really done any research on them. Knowing what polymer they use will help you greatly in choosing the right paint.
My best guess as to a bullet-proof sure-fire paint would be an epoxy based one. I'm pretty sure epoxy will stick to the fast manifold. It's gonna cost some serious dough, though, so it's probably best to go with the advise already given (by people who have already done it).
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Mine was painted just like the car...sanded, prep, primer, navy blue metallic, and then clear coat. Looks great after a year and a half...shinny as a new penney.. spray cans can't come close to the finish that real automotive paints provide ...
Last edited by slt200mph; 04-10-2007 at 09:05 AM.
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I haved used krylon fusion before although not on an intake. After some mild sanding, I wipe it down with Wilbond (liquid deglosser). You have to paint within 15 minutes of wiping it down. I don't care what directions say on any can of any paint, you need to prep in order for things to stick. No, a 6 dollar can of paint cant compare to a pro-car paint finish, but it does a pretty good job all things considered in my opinion.
As for hardeners in paints off the shelves, all house, trim and machinery paint, including most lacquers and floor finishes, don't have hardeners and dry pretty hard in my opinion. And a clear coat will help protect the finish, but not help your original coat of paint adhere to the intake. If your first coat sticking is the problem, nothing you put on top will help.
That sucks that the paint didn't hold up, for whatever reason. Either try again with a different prep, or just go with a pro finish from a shop for the best job. It obviously will cost more, but it will look better and if it gives you problems, you can always take it back to them to fix it. Good luck....
As for hardeners in paints off the shelves, all house, trim and machinery paint, including most lacquers and floor finishes, don't have hardeners and dry pretty hard in my opinion. And a clear coat will help protect the finish, but not help your original coat of paint adhere to the intake. If your first coat sticking is the problem, nothing you put on top will help.
That sucks that the paint didn't hold up, for whatever reason. Either try again with a different prep, or just go with a pro finish from a shop for the best job. It obviously will cost more, but it will look better and if it gives you problems, you can always take it back to them to fix it. Good luck....
#18
Originally Posted by slt200mph
Mine was painted just like the car...sanded, prep, primer, navy blue metallic, and then clear coat. Looks great after a year and a half...shinny as a new penney.. spray cans can't come close to the finish that real automotive paints provide ...
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Originally Posted by Adam_346
I love your valve covers
Thanks for the kind words sir!! Those valve covers are a GMPP part. I work at a Chevy dealer so the price was not bad at all. If my memory serves they were like $102 a piece. A LS1 cleans up and looks good once you get all that crap off the top of the engine. Once you get the coil pacs gone then you have to do something with the ugly stock valve covers. In the end the 3rd gen engine turns into a good looking motor..