Gary Z

Seduced by the name, I made the mistake of painting my FAST intake with Krylon Fusion Superbond Paint for Plastic. This pathetic paint may fuse and bond to some plastic but light pressure with a fingernail strips it from the FAST. Now I need to have my manifold bead blasted before I can start over. I’ve learned my lesson and intend to seek professional help.

Loochy88

iTrader: (2)

how long did you let it dry before you handled it?

Black02Bird

iTrader: (5)

when they said plastic i dont think they meant polymer type plastics. its more for kiddie toys and plastic furniture. you know, the soft kind

NHRAMAN

iTrader: (1)

Hard Core Z28

Thats sucks. Which paint is better to use?

SUTTERERMAN85

iTrader: (42)

did you sand it before you painted it?....

Gary Z

I filed off the emblems and sanded the surrounding areas. I cleaned the entire top shell with detergent and rinsed and dried it thoroughly. I put down three coats of flat black, letting it dry for two hours between coats. It looked great. I didn't touch it for three days while awaiting delivery of my throttle body. As soon as I started handling it, scratches appeared. I did the fingernail test in the area I had sanded and easily exposed the substrate. The good news is that Easy-Off oven cleaner will remove Fusion superbond. I've decided to leave it unpainted.

Ericbigmac83

iTrader: (19)

in the future dont wait 2 hours between coats. and no matter what you do its gonna scratch off unless you clear it, thats what your problem is i would guess

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

Or do like I did and spray it down with adhesion promoter first.

Jeremiah

iTrader: (5)

All aerosol off the shelf paints are junk, get a good quality PPG or Du pont base/clear and it will last a life time and allways have that just painted shine. There also not affected by coming into contact with other chemicals like most rattle can junk.

If you dont have access to this type of paint of the gun to spray it with go to a body shop and pick your collor. They shouldnt charge more than an hour or so to paint it. The only prep needed for this type of paint is a good scrubbing with some degreaser and a scuffing pad like scotch brite.

Gary Z

I am not an experienced painter but I believe my major mistake was my choice of paint, not my method of application or failure to add clearcoat. This stuff is advertised as not needing primer. Adhesion of this paint to this material is very, very poor.

Quik

iTrader: (7)

spray can paints dont have the proper hardners in them to become solid as a paint that is sprayed in a gun. think of how long paint sits in a can...and it doesnt get hard

nycab

iTrader: (7)

That is not the correct response at all. ALL plastics are composed of polymers. There are, of course, many many different types or plastics with a wide range of different properties. I don't have the time to explain it all, but you're welcome to check out wikipedia and other sources if you're curious.

Does any one happen to know the exact polymer used in the FAST manifold? I don't own one, so I haven't really done any research on them. Knowing what polymer they use will help you greatly in choosing the right paint.

My best guess as to a bullet-proof sure-fire paint would be an epoxy based one. I'm pretty sure epoxy will stick to the fast manifold. It's gonna cost some serious dough, though, so it's probably best to go with the advise already given (by people who have already done it).

ramairws6

iTrader: (33)

Definatley need the adhesion promoter like said in the above post.Used it on my LS7 intake with no problems!Traver

Jeremiah

iTrader: (5)

Adhesion promoter will help it adhere but you still have a crappy rattle can finish that wont last.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Mine was painted just like the car...sanded, prep, primer, navy blue metallic, and then clear coat. Looks great after a year and a half...shinny as a new penney.. spray cans can't come close to the finish that real automotive paints provide ...

2000ws6_104

I haved used krylon fusion before although not on an intake. After some mild sanding, I wipe it down with Wilbond (liquid deglosser). You have to paint within 15 minutes of wiping it down. I don't care what directions say on any can of any paint, you need to prep in order for things to stick. No, a 6 dollar can of paint cant compare to a pro-car paint finish, but it does a pretty good job all things considered in my opinion.

As for hardeners in paints off the shelves, all house, trim and machinery paint, including most lacquers and floor finishes, don't have hardeners and dry pretty hard in my opinion. And a clear coat will help protect the finish, but not help your original coat of paint adhere to the intake. If your first coat sticking is the problem, nothing you put on top will help.

That sucks that the paint didn't hold up, for whatever reason. Either try again with a different prep, or just go with a pro finish from a shop for the best job. It obviously will cost more, but it will look better and if it gives you problems, you can always take it back to them to fix it. Good luck....

Adam_346

I love your valve covers

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Thanks for the kind words sir!! Those valve covers are a GMPP part. I work at a Chevy dealer so the price was not bad at all. If my memory serves they were like $102 a piece. A LS1 cleans up and looks good once you get all that crap off the top of the engine. Once you get the coil pacs gone then you have to do something with the ugly stock valve covers. In the end the 3rd gen engine turns into a good looking motor..

alw041

iTrader: (2)

Nice to know...