what's the difference between machine buffers?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
what's the difference between machine buffers? I tried to do a search and went through at least 50 pages, but couldn't really find what I was looking for. I DID find that the Porter Cable is the machine-of-choice, though. My question is: What is the difference between these high-end machine buffers and... let's say.. the ones you can get from Advanced Auto? I've never used one before, so I don;t really understand the concept behind using one. If a cheap one can do 3000RPM and the good ones can to 3000RPM as well, then is there really any significant difference? I see the really ones that can do 6000RPM! Is that even necessary? Do the good ones orbit is a different, much more effective way than the cheap ones? Any info about anything at all about these things would greatly help! thanks
The Porter Cable 7424 is a popular choice as we have sold many of them as part of our complete TCPC-10 buffing kits. It is dual-action buffing feature makes it an excellent choice for the beginner or novice user. It can not burn the paint as it moves in 2 different directions at the same time. It vibrates in an up/down motion while spinning in an random orbital elliptical (not circular) motion.
It has a variable speed feature range of 2500-6000 RPM. This is key since it gives you the ability to remove ultra fine scratches and blemishes associated with the continued washing and drying process. That speed range of 5000-6000 orbits/minute is necessary for this action. With this speed flexibility of the PC, the lower end of 2500-3000 OPM is perfectly suited for application of your last step products such as liquid waxes, glazes or sealants.
The lower priced fixed speed buffers may be cost effective but they will not give the flexibility as described above.
It has a variable speed feature range of 2500-6000 RPM. This is key since it gives you the ability to remove ultra fine scratches and blemishes associated with the continued washing and drying process. That speed range of 5000-6000 orbits/minute is necessary for this action. With this speed flexibility of the PC, the lower end of 2500-3000 OPM is perfectly suited for application of your last step products such as liquid waxes, glazes or sealants.
The lower priced fixed speed buffers may be cost effective but they will not give the flexibility as described above.
You'll quickly find that the Porter Cable piece is just very well supported by the various vendors. The pads and such are readily available, and there are a lot of people that have experience with them. I've been using mine for almost 4 years at this point...I've got a circular polisher, but that thing is retardedly messy to use, and the possibility of doing serious damage to your paint goes way up (ask me how I know). This isn't something I would cheap out on...there is no comparison between a PC and the typical Vato Zone "buffers."
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
Originally Posted by Steve@Tropi-Care
The lower priced fixed speed buffers may be cost effective but they will not give the flexibility as described above.
iv never used one of these porter cable buffers although i might buy one for my own car becuase of the Dual Action motion should greatly reduce the chance of swirl and my car is black... with that said we use DeWalt buffers at work with various pads and these are just regula circular buffers... these can do seriouse damage if not used correctly and are also expensive i think around $160... but iv used these and they work GREAT... but iv also used a Snap On $300 buffer that is by far the nicest iv ever used.... it was so smooth and had no vibration at all.... it was actually rediculous to me.... but this is how the cheaper holds up to the expensive... you can try those cheaper orbitals with the right products it might work.... but it might not...
I'm still torn between buying a new Makita to replace the one I inherited from my dad, or going with the Porter Cable. I'll probably end up with a PC, but I've been considering this for a while, so who knows. I learned on the old Makita, and I'm not worried about burning the paint, but it may be overkill to get the rotary.
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I would suggest the PC .. you can use it for things other than removing defects .. which is a lot more difficult with the Makita ..
worth the investment if you spend a lot of time on the finish of your car.
worth the investment if you spend a lot of time on the finish of your car.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
Originally Posted by Gipraw
worth the investment if you spend a lot of time on the finish of your car.
The PC is awesome, but if you're like me, it's unsatisfying. IMO the PC is idiot-proof, and even when paired with compound and a pad with bite, doesn't work as fast as I'd like it to. That's not to say that I'm not satisfied with the results, but I've seen the same results achieved faster by the good old rotaries. The difference is obvious: you're going to want to generate some amount of heat to take advantage of abrasives with good cut. The PC does just the opposite: try pairing an excellent compound (Optimum) with the PC, and you'll get squat. In short, for effectiveness, restricted to compounds and polishes that are geared to work with dual-action polishers (Meg's DACP, Pinnacle, etc). 
I understand that the PC is geared more toward beginners, but once you become adept with it, and if you ever plan on tackling cars other than your own, you may want to "upgrade" down the road.
I understand that the PC is geared more toward beginners, but once you become adept with it, and if you ever plan on tackling cars other than your own, you may want to "upgrade" down the road.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,419
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From: Holland Twp/Milford, New Jersey
I did some more research and found this awesome link. It talks about the different machines, compounds, and pads. It goes into detailed explanations about the basics and offers advantages and disadvantages of use. Check this link out!
http://automotivedetailing.com/asset...ed_buffers.htm
http://automotivedetailing.com/asset...ed_buffers.htm
Originally Posted by NightWindDriftr
I understand that the PC is geared more toward beginners, but once you become adept with it, and if you ever plan on tackling cars other than your own, you may want to "upgrade" down the road.
I am far from a beginner, yet the PC is my tool of choice >80% of the time, be it my car, or one of my customers.
I only use the rotary if I need it. The PC is lighter, easier to handle, and follows the first rule of thumb .. always use the least agressive method possible
Originally Posted by sdm1234
i think i'll probably save up and get something good rather than skimp out.
Originally Posted by WS6_00
so a porter cable is not a rotary type? I've been looking at trying to find something to buff my car with and was told to get an orbital. yet porter cable is better???
A rotary has its center of rotation in the center of the pad. Think of a wheel on the car. An orbital's center of rotation is slightly off-center. This makes the whole pad move in an eliptical/orbital pattern.
Rotaries are great, but they can do a fair amount of damage in the hands of someone who doesn't have much experience. They generate more heat on the clearcoat's surface, which breaks it down faster. An orbital spreads the contact area out a little more, so it doesn't generate as much heat.
-Mike
thanks 
Originally Posted by sdm1234
thanks for the info steve! all i'm really looking to do it remove fine surface scratches tho. will these low-end buffers do the trick? i really don't want to spend all that money just to perform one task. i can spend more than those advanced auto ones, but these high-end porter cables seem to be a little out of my price range. what does everyone else think?
