sunroof in a 4th gen? a wtf moment
#21
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The sun roof frame provides support for the metal "or in this case SMC" skin that it is mounted to but it does nothing for the structural frame work under the roof skin. Example... when you cut a big hole in the middle of the roof of a car the roof skin becomes floppy/flimsy. The frame work of the sun roof reinforces the outer panel or skin but it does nothing for the frame work under the skin. The structural integrity of the car is compromised by doing this.
#22
Originally Posted by Ace$nyper
Am I correct though part of the roof structure runs right where a sunroof would be?
Originally Posted by SmokeySS
I wonder what affect an aftermarket sunroof has on the resale value of a used car?
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Originally Posted by Ace$nyper
Ah ok that was what i really wondered the most being I know with a sawzall you can install them in anything, i just wondered how strong it was.
Originally Posted by Intragration
I used to install those pop-ups in all kinds of cars. They're actually not bad quality, I'd feel more comfortable with one of those than with the power ones. The power ones are usually more fragile and they have a tendency to leak. The pop-ups usually don't leak, there's a lot less to go wrong with them.
One manufacturer's roofs are bonded in, then braced. It actully adds more stabiliy to the roof, because it creates more surface area for bracing. You'd be suprised what some of the bows are. Some are planks, some are damn toothpicks.
The other I install is a bolt in application. It too is braced in as well at 6 points. The bows, usually 2 are removed, are only at 4 points.
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Originally Posted by pearceleather
It actully adds more stabiliy to the roof, because it creates more surface area for bracing. You'd be suprised what some of the bows are. Some are planks, some are damn toothpicks.
The other I install is a bolt in application. It too is braced in as well at 6 points. The bows, usually 2 are removed, are only at 4 points.
The other I install is a bolt in application. It too is braced in as well at 6 points. The bows, usually 2 are removed, are only at 4 points.
Its an entirely different situation in a fourth gen F body. The structural reinforcement you have to cut/remove in them is a major structural component to the cabin of the car. It should never be removed for any reason. I predict that these fourth gen cars with sun roofs will eventually see cracks in the roofs from torsional stress ect. most notably in the rear upper rear corner above the doors glass.
Last edited by Jeremiah; 06-02-2007 at 10:33 AM.
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If you take it to extremes then you can prolly notice a difference in structural rigidity and bracing and safety. For daily driving with the occassinal trip to the drag-strip it's prolly safe enough. Now if you are endanger of flipping and having your hood smack a tree or telephone pole... then I think either way you are gonna be toast Or could always install a roll cage ( shrugs. I mean safety wise and strutural wise if you add in the sfc's and such I think you will do better than a 'vert in any situation where you flip or roll etc.
To bash these guys for putting in sunroofs etc and to ignore the fact that they have 'vert versions of them is funny I mean hell cut off the roof is safer than cutting a hole in it hehe...
To bash these guys for putting in sunroofs etc and to ignore the fact that they have 'vert versions of them is funny I mean hell cut off the roof is safer than cutting a hole in it hehe...
#27
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Actually, as I recall, coupes and T-tops have the exact same structure under the roof skin. There is a center brace, and this gives them their rigidity. The convertibles, which have no such bracing, have some type of factory subframe connectors or some other form of underbody bracing. Cutting out that center brace on a coupe to put in a sunroof is probably not the best idea, and I agree, it would probably lead to structural problems. A coupe with the brace removed, unlike a convertible, also still has a fixed roof skin, which will now be subjected to twisting and flexing stresses that don't bother the convertible top.
As for pop-up sunroofs versus articulated power ones, you're right, poor installation is what leads to leaking. It's just that there's a lot better chance for poor installation on a complicated install versus a simple pop-up.
As for pop-up sunroofs versus articulated power ones, you're right, poor installation is what leads to leaking. It's just that there's a lot better chance for poor installation on a complicated install versus a simple pop-up.
#28
Originally Posted by 68z28
I believe the verts came with subframe connectors from the factory, but that was it. Not positive on this though.
Ummm...no...or at least if they do they are completely ineffective.
I had the BMR's welded in as my passenger side door panel kept popping off every time I raced..then my dash craked down the middle and I was at the shop the following week.
As far as I know, they make the tops on the verts pretty strong, I know they are extremely heavy (read malfunctioning hydraulic system)
#30
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Originally Posted by David Tannenbaum
Ummm...no...or at least if they do they are completely ineffective.
I had the BMR's welded in as my passenger side door panel kept popping off every time I raced..then my dash craked down the middle and I was at the shop the following week.
As far as I know, they make the tops on the verts pretty strong, I know they are extremely heavy (read malfunctioning hydraulic system)
I had the BMR's welded in as my passenger side door panel kept popping off every time I raced..then my dash craked down the middle and I was at the shop the following week.
As far as I know, they make the tops on the verts pretty strong, I know they are extremely heavy (read malfunctioning hydraulic system)
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#31
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Originally Posted by Intragration
A coupe with the brace removed, unlike a convertible, also still has a fixed roof skin, which will now be subjected to twisting and flexing stresses that don't bother the convertible top.
A fiberglass or SMC fixed roof panel will not flex like the cloth covered skelleton of a convertible top. something has to give and this is where the stress cracks come into play.
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i seen a sunroof on a 93-97 firebird with spinner hubcaps...every other fbody guy i have told doesn't believe me...oh well...does anyone know if this was a factory option or not?
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#34
Mine was power.. was pretty cool.. never leaked.. but wa sa little noisy and due to the mechanism it could only oopen up like halfway.
Shrusg dunno about the structural rigidity etc.. but I had pretty much stiffened it up with sfc's and stb and sways etc etc.. pretty much liek this car.. only it was lowered too.
Shrusg dunno about the structural rigidity etc.. but I had pretty much stiffened it up with sfc's and stb and sways etc etc.. pretty much liek this car.. only it was lowered too.
#35
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Holy crap...sunroofs in 4th gens are pretty mind-blowing, but not half as mind-blowing as LS1Tech threads, resurrected from a time when the Internet was half as old as it is today ha ha.
So as not to be a complete dick, I might have an answer for you. Powered sunroofs have motors. They are typically located near the front center of the sunroof opening. The motor operates a shaft, which in turn operates the left and right tracks, which open/close the sunroof. If you can locate the motor, there is usually a plug covering the centerline of the driven shaft, which can be operated with an allen wrench or some type of tool. Pop the plug, insert and operate tool, and this is likely to fix your problem.
So as not to be a complete dick, I might have an answer for you. Powered sunroofs have motors. They are typically located near the front center of the sunroof opening. The motor operates a shaft, which in turn operates the left and right tracks, which open/close the sunroof. If you can locate the motor, there is usually a plug covering the centerline of the driven shaft, which can be operated with an allen wrench or some type of tool. Pop the plug, insert and operate tool, and this is likely to fix your problem.
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#36
Holy crap...sunroofs in 4th gens are pretty mind-blowing, but not half as mind-blowing as LS1Tech threads, resurrected from a time when the Internet was half as old as it is today ha ha.
So as not to be a complete dick, I might have an answer for you. Powered sunroofs have motors. They are typically located near the front center of the sunroof opening. The motor operates a shaft, which in turn operates the left and right tracks, which open/close the sunroof. If you can locate the motor, there is usually a plug covering the centerline of the driven shaft, which can be operated with an allen wrench or some type of tool. Pop the plug, insert and operate tool, and this is likely to fix your problem.
So as not to be a complete dick, I might have an answer for you. Powered sunroofs have motors. They are typically located near the front center of the sunroof opening. The motor operates a shaft, which in turn operates the left and right tracks, which open/close the sunroof. If you can locate the motor, there is usually a plug covering the centerline of the driven shaft, which can be operated with an allen wrench or some type of tool. Pop the plug, insert and operate tool, and this is likely to fix your problem.
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