Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

Project "ObseSSed"

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 06:34 PM
  #861  
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Originally Posted by slammed1500
i got it for $50 lol
i usually dont come across deals that so i was a lil shocked
it only supposed to have 12,xxx miles on it
Thats awesome, everyone needs a good deal now and then
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:22 PM
  #862  
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Ok after reading all 44 pages of this thread, I gotta say the lowered and bagged thing is NOT my style whatsoever, but knowing how much work and effort you put into the car still makes it awesome regardless what some of the asshats on this website will say. to you!
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #863  
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Originally Posted by squee
Would you sell it to a local in desperate need to get his DD back on the road? Say for 1000% profit?
sorry dont think so
i have some plans 4 it
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 11:25 PM
  #864  
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Originally Posted by slammed1500
i got it for $50 lol
i usually dont come across deals that so i was a lil shocked
it only supposed to have 12,xxx miles on it
was it a crack head with powder around his lips that sold the LS1 eng to you lol jk lucky you
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 01:11 AM
  #865  
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there's a thread on a fiberglass forum that could use some of these updates. lol
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Old Apr 1, 2011 | 09:34 PM
  #866  
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Originally Posted by v7guy
there's a thread on a fiberglass forum that could use some of these updates. lol
done lol
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Old Apr 2, 2011 | 11:10 PM
  #867  
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Looks like some real nice work, I really enjoy the updates. Thanks for taking the extra time to post this for everyone.
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Old Apr 3, 2011 | 01:17 PM
  #868  
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I've said it before and I'll say it again...I absolutely love this build. The thought process and level of creativity is simply amazing. You are talented my friend.
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 11:17 PM
  #869  
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Originally Posted by v7guy
there's a thread on a fiberglass forum that could use some of these updates. lol
Originally Posted by slammed1500
done lol
i think there was a link to this earlier... but... link?
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 04:30 AM
  #870  
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Here's my idea for a sway bar link that will clear the bag. These vette links automatically give you at least 1 inch more room. Just cut the bar lenth down and weld a bracket to the end. Reducing bar length will stiffen it up, so it would be best to use a stock V8 or even a V6 front bar. They should be cheap at the junkyard, plus the metal vette links are cheap as well.








Not exactly like this, but you get my drift.



I'll probably do the same if I mount a bag on the lower arm.

Last edited by JasonWW; Apr 6, 2011 at 04:37 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 05:02 AM
  #871  
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You sure have a lot of talent.. How do you make the time with a family and I'm guessing a F/T job???
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:28 AM
  #872  
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Originally Posted by TORCHD 02 TA
You sure have a lot of talent.. How do you make the time with a family and I'm guessing a F/T job???
thanks

i usually stop working early so i can spend time with them and i take some days off every now and then
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:30 AM
  #873  
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Originally Posted by JasonWW
Here's my idea for a sway bar link that will clear the bag. These vette links automatically give you at least 1 inch more room. Just cut the bar lenth down and weld a bracket to the end. Reducing bar length will stiffen it up, so it would be best to use a stock V8 or even a V6 front bar. They should be cheap at the junkyard, plus the metal vette links are cheap as well.









Not exactly like this, but you get my drift.



I'll probably do the same if I mount a bag on the lower arm.
thats what i would like 2 do but you supposedly can't weld on a sway bar its spring steel
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 10:52 PM
  #874  
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modified the factory A/C compressor block







modified the condenser










modified the orifice tube






saddle mounts for the radiator



new hoses



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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 11:06 PM
  #875  
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Its looking great every time!
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Old Apr 7, 2011 | 11:06 PM
  #876  
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Originally Posted by slammed1500
thats what i would like 2 do but you supposedly can't weld on a sway bar its spring steel
I've seen lot's and lot's of people weld on the ends of a sway bar. Are you thinking it will become brittle and break?
It's the middle section that twists, not the ends, so it should be fine.
An alternative to welding would be a clamp on bracket, but the endlink would need to push straight up and down. Otherwise the clamp could twist under the stress.

Besides, if by some strange event, 15 years from now, while racing the car on a road course, the bar end should break or bend, no big deal. Stock swaybars are cheap to replace.

Having one up front would sure make it handle better.

I wonder how difficult having a stiff swaybar would make it to lean the car with the air bags? Hmmmm.
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Old Apr 13, 2011 | 07:19 PM
  #877  
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Hey Kenny, I've got an air bag question for you.

When your setting up the plates it looks like you want to make sure that the bag does not shift, like the top plate goes left and the bottom plate goes right. Is that correct?

I'm thinking that the center of each plate needs to maintain the same distance from the pivot point during the entire stroke. Kind of like these 2 different bag locations I drew up here. Bag Pictures

Now if I mount mine low, it looks like I'll be limited to a 6" bag. If I move it higher, I can go bigger. Both locations look to be fine and the angles all line up. You have a lot more experience than me, can you take a look just to see if it looks alright?

Here's a tweaked version that might be better. Tweaked

Last edited by JasonWW; Apr 14, 2011 at 12:40 AM.
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 12:33 AM
  #878  
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ive been a welder for a long time and you would be fine to weld on the ends of the sway bars, BUT i would deff not recommend just slapping a plate right on to the end of the bar and using a regular fillet weld on it. your gonna want to bevel the ends to get good penetration with your welds and use some hardened A500 3/8 plate to make your tabs out of

oh and beautiful work on the car id hate to guess at how many hours you have in fabbing those inner fender well
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #879  
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i would think it wouldnt matter on the angle of the plates because the angle of the control arm is still going 2 change the same amount doing its travel
you just want 2 keep the top and bottom plate the same angle when compressed
Originally Posted by JasonWW
Hey Kenny, I've got an air bag question for you.

When your setting up the plates it looks like you want to make sure that the bag does not shift, like the top plate goes left and the bottom plate goes right. Is that correct?

I'm thinking that the center of each plate needs to maintain the same distance from the pivot point during the entire stroke. Kind of like these 2 different bag locations I drew up here. Bag Pictures

Now if I mount mine low, it looks like I'll be limited to a 6" bag. If I move it higher, I can go bigger. Both locations look to be fine and the angles all line up. You have a lot more experience than me, can you take a look just to see if it looks alright?

Here's a tweaked version that might be better. Tweaked
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 06:38 PM
  #880  
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maybe not even add a tab why not mark the sway bar where you want to connect the sway bar link and flaten it punch a hole threw it and mount it just like the stock set up
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