Getting depth out of a white car?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 123
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Getting depth out of a white car? Any one have any waxes polishes cleaners that they have noticed a significant difference in white paint? i use to own a 2004 dark shadow gray metallic mustang and that paint always use to pop! with cleaning and then detailer wax. im not having so much luck with the camaro any thing peeps? or is white just a difficult color?
It's really tough... I have the same issue with light pewter mettalic. I recently picked up some Menzerna glaze which seems to make a little bit of a difference. You can try a glaze from any number of different places, but unless you have some kind of pearl in white, it's tough to get that 'pop' your looking for.
Any one have any waxes polishes cleaners that they have noticed a significant difference in white paint? i use to own a 2004 dark shadow gray metallic mustang and that paint always use to pop! with cleaning and then detailer wax. im not having so much luck with the camaro any thing peeps? or is white just a difficult color?
my t/a is artic white also, I put on 3 coats of zaino fine scratch remover last night. I did the drivers side of the hood only, to see the difference in drivers side vs. pass.
I can tell that the paint looks deeper compared to the pass. side, so I am going to keep putting coats on
I can tell that the paint looks deeper compared to the pass. side, so I am going to keep putting coats on
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When I had my Camaro, I used a clay bar and then waxed it. The difference was night and day. The amount of **** that came out of my paint with the clay bar coupled with the nice coat of wax really set the car off. I plan on clay bar and waxing my Trans Am this weekend.
Andy
Andy
I like that idea, but if you can't then do like what the other guy said and really clay bar the whole car you will be able to tell the difference. The prep of a detail is the most important compared to the waxing. Clay barring gets the impurities out of the paint and lets the wax work better. As far as the pewter guy goes I have seen pewter look very dull until I saw an awesome one at a show and they said they use nothing but zaino.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 123
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yes i plan to clay bar my car just to get the experience but if it makes it deeper thats a bonus... verry nice cars also people, and zaino is a line up of products i think i researced before anyone got a link to brush up? isnt it like 8 steps to get the full wash greatest looking blah blah blah effect on the car?
Using Zaino is a very lengthy process. I'm sure ZaneO, a member here can better explain the process. I think those are the only products he
uses on his car. My uncle has an artic white Z28 and I got some depth into the paint. I clay barred the car first with the mother's clay bar kit,
then waxed it with Meguires NXT, and finished with a coat of #7 Meguires Show Glaze.
uses on his car. My uncle has an artic white Z28 and I got some depth into the paint. I clay barred the car first with the mother's clay bar kit,
then waxed it with Meguires NXT, and finished with a coat of #7 Meguires Show Glaze.
colby72 - scratch remover is not a "coating" type product, it is a polish. In each application you are using mild abrasives to polish and thus remove imperfections in the paint. Multiple applications don't give you extra coats of anything, it simply provides further and further cut. However, to typically get good results from a polish you will need a high speed (random) orbital machine to break the product down for effective us, whereas hand polishing can rarely do that.
67ss - you have the process backwards. It should be glaze and then wax/sealant. A glaze fills in minor imperfections and finishes things off with a very miniscule cut to it. The wax/sealant then adds the protection, nothing else.
To get a deep shine it's all in the process. A clay bar does nothing but remove surface contaminants in preparation for polishing/waxing. It won't remove any haze or swirls or anything. To get the deep look you usually have to use a somewhat abrasive polish with some decent cut (along with an orbital) to get the imperfections out of the paint. Then, move on to whatever glaze you want to use (to fill in the last tiny imperfections). Then finish with your choice of sealant or wax, depending on which look you like better.
67ss - you have the process backwards. It should be glaze and then wax/sealant. A glaze fills in minor imperfections and finishes things off with a very miniscule cut to it. The wax/sealant then adds the protection, nothing else.
To get a deep shine it's all in the process. A clay bar does nothing but remove surface contaminants in preparation for polishing/waxing. It won't remove any haze or swirls or anything. To get the deep look you usually have to use a somewhat abrasive polish with some decent cut (along with an orbital) to get the imperfections out of the paint. Then, move on to whatever glaze you want to use (to fill in the last tiny imperfections). Then finish with your choice of sealant or wax, depending on which look you like better.
Using Zaino is a very lengthy process. I'm sure ZaneO, a member here can better explain the process. I think those are the only products he
uses on his car. My uncle has an artic white Z28 and I got some depth into the paint. I clay barred the car first with the mother's clay bar kit,
then waxed it with Meguires NXT, and finished with a coat of #7 Meguires Show Glaze.
uses on his car. My uncle has an artic white Z28 and I got some depth into the paint. I clay barred the car first with the mother's clay bar kit,
then waxed it with Meguires NXT, and finished with a coat of #7 Meguires Show Glaze.
you want to glaze before you wax, not the other way around.
I have an Arctic SS, and when cleaned and polished up right, the thing just looks like a million-candlepower flashlight driving down the road. It almost blinds me in direct sunlight at times. To me, that makes up for the lack of depth. That, and it doesn't get dirty 12 seconds after you wash it.
