^The problem is waiting for the flexplate to get in. I am dieing to drive it and its only been since Monday. I also need to finish it up by Sunday night. We will see what happens. Did you see my above post after i edited it by chance?

 

well man its your decision, you can pay a little extra and get it shipped quick..$100>$700.
i used a longer bolt put the end of it on the head and welded it on there, and it came right off..

 

Hmmm. Did you have any problems leading up to the bent flexplate? Ever had any overheating issues or anything? I can't really see a welder causing it to do that but some weird things happen.

My buddy has a 3600 Stall and hasn't been running a Cooler at all since it was in, despite me telling him to, and he hasn't had any problems... I would think that would bend the flexplate more than a welder. Maybe im just trying to deny it so i don't have to buy one? Haha

 

lol i deny **** all the time so i dont have to pay more, but i always seem to pay in the end.... Na man no over heating or anything, I run a Huge trans color and all that..

 

You can get a stock on off here for like $20 thats what i did when i found out mine had 3 cracks in it. Oh and if you do get a new flexplate get some new ARP crank bolt i had one of mine brake when i was torquing mine.

 

Damn you people. Haha

 

lol, were just tryin to save you money and time!!!

 

I know. Ill inspect it real good after i have the stock converter out. If it looks good ill leave it in. If not, its coming out. Ill let you guys know how it goes.

 

Well to update to everyone. Welded a nut on the bolts and twisted them right out. I think they heat from the welder loosened them up nicely due to them being nice and warm when they were out.

Then about 30 minutes to get the damn trans off the dowel pins, which was a bigger pain then it should have been, and it now lays on the ground with the converter out. We will be finishing it up tomarow.

And to clear it up, my flexplate has no cracks and isn't bent. I also talked to a couple very reputable transmission sponsers on the site and they said the welder shouldn't cause my flexplate to bend or crack. I won't mention who so they don't get bombarded with PM's but thats to let anyone know if they have the same problem!

 

Sounds good man, congrats on getting those bolts out.

I would just take yourself to home depot and get the correct thread size bolts and some locking washers w/ loctite and call it good. Either that or some ARP bolts w/ loctite.

Make sure you guys put some ATF in the converter before you install it on the trans for re-install.

Tony.

 

Way to go. It always sucks when a few damn bolts end up taking days to remove.

 

Yeah thats a thought as well. To bad i already went to the stealership. Oh well, these bolts have the loctite as well. Ill have to make my way up to Boise sometime when the weather gets warm Tony and check out that beast in your sig.

Yeah, couldn't stop thinking about it all week. You wouldn't believe how easily they came out after we welded the nut on. Felt so ridiculous to know we struggled for a good 1 1/2 hours trying to get them out and bam, one turn after a weld and they slid out!

 

Updates:

Put everything back together and in the car tonight. Converter slipped in great with all 3 clicks, was perfectly spaced from the balloon plates to the bellhousing at 1.125", tranny slipped right on the dowel pins and bolts/starter/exhaust all came back together nicely.

NOW my only problem is the shift linkage. We think we may have broken it when we dropped the trans out somehow. I put the car in reverse to test drive it and it backed out, then when i put it in drive it didnt move. The linkage from the shifter to the mounting bracket on the tranny is broken somehow. We can manually shift it from the trans but when we try from the A4 **** it will go to reverse but then if we try to put it back in park it stays in reverse. Make sense?

Anyhow, everything else is great. A new shift linkage will be ordered tomarow morning and our mechanic at work will throw it in when i get it. Can't wait.

-Zack

 

This is the best way, Get a 1" deep hole saw bit (do not use the pilot bit in the middle of the holesaw bit. Use a 90 degree die grinder. Go over the Converter bolts and drill a hole in the flexplate. thats what i did,

 

The linkage that comes from the top of the tunnel to the bracket that holds the linkage on the pan is broken? Or the mount tab/ball for the linkage to hook onto the trans is broken?

You need a camera dude.

 

I know LOL.

We aren't sure yet but i ordered a new one and it's only going to run me $70.
This install is costing me here and costing me there. LOL. Speakin of that we didn't even use the bolts i bought from the stealership because some came on the damn converter. Granted they were fairly short, they worked great. And i figured if they aren't the right ones, why would Yank send them?

Anyway Tony we are thinkin we broke it underneath the console somehow. It sounds like a shift linkage problem to me, thats all it really could be. Everything came together flawlessy except the damn dipstick, but we will pull the console apart sometime soon. I can't do it today cuz i called in sick and its at work, haha. And tomarow is my day off.

BUT when we dropped the trans it came fairly fast and the shift linkage was caught on it when i heard a little POP. Looked up and the linkage was caught on the trans so we raised it back up. This is what happens when you put weight on a trans jack that leaks down fairly quickly. Anyhow looked up and there was a little hole in the boot the shift linkage cable comes from inside the car. So it was enough force to stretch that out and we heard a pop so i figure we either stretched it out or broke something.

Let me know your opinion on it Tony. - Zack

 

Did you already buy the cable? I know for a fact a few junkyards in town have Fbodies, you should just go snag one there instead of $70 from GM.

Did you pop the shift panel off to see if there is anything wrong inside the car with the linkage?

I guess im still confused, did you guys undo the bolts that hold the linkage bracket to the trans pan before you dropped it? Or is that where all the weight ended up and when it went 'pop' thats what your describing?

 

I didn't already buy the cable, but i ordered it. Will be here Wednesday. I didn't pop the panel off yet but i will either go do that tomarow on my day off or wait til Wednesday. I won't go buy the cable til Friday though.

Yeah we unbolted it but when we got the tranny off the dowel pins it started coming down quick because our trans jack/lift was leaking and leaking fast so it started coming down, and while we tried to get it stable on the jack it came down so far that the linkage (at this point along with some 02 plug ins, were caught on the tranny, they were just dangleing and got caught as the tranny came down.) and that's when we heard a loud pop.

That help any? - Zack

 

Zack,

Sounds like you might have just popped it out of its place inside the car, you should take the 5minutes and check that really quick. Does the trans itself come out of gear or the gear designator in the car?

But definatly go to a junkyard and save yourself $50 man

Tony.

 

What do i check for after i take the console/shifter area out of place. I don't understand what you mean by that last part...

And i would but i don't trust any in this area and i doubt any have it.