We are going to have the shift box to you one way or the other soon so we can get to the bottom of the shift problem you have.
Frank

 

One because of the deal I can get for both but more importantly it extends the warranty to 1 year.

 

Frank

What about questions below?

So if I order the billet stall (3600) with a 2.5str will it perform like the Yank does?

Also looking at my #'s what kind of life do you think the tranny and converter will have? It is my dd, I go to the track maybe 4 times a year.

On the stock tranny now with shift kit and vacuum modulation. Has 32k miles on it. Yank has about 14k miles on it.

 

Well with similar specs its all done with math it should perform in a similar manor

Hmm life of a trans well that would depend in normal driving it should have about the same life expectacy as the stack trans or better but then it depends on driving , For instance there are guys running the stock trans with a shift kit at 500 rwhp at 100000 miles but then there are others who dont make 20000 miles with the stock trans in the same situation .
Then there are guys who race and beat on there car alot who send theres in to a refresh once a year or so because they know the punishment they put to them.
So thats a really hard question to answer honestly because there are so many variables.
I will say the life expectancy in normal driving for all three levels would be the same and should rival the stock trans easily long term.
The difference is in the amount of force each will take before breaking not in longevity.
We do have individuals running much lower times than you presently show who are over 30000 miles who hit the track regular.

Its kinda like with a manual trans how long will the clutch last, Well in my brothers truck so far 175000 miles "hes a normal kinda driver". But on the other hand when I had my 5 speed camaro a few years back it ate a clutch every few months high end ones a that but then I am not "a normal driver"

I know this is probably not the definative answer you were looking for but as i said to many variables.
What I do know is this , If it breaks in the first year on a trans converter combo we will warranty it , If it breaks after that time it will cost $950 dollars round trip shipping included to get it fixed with a new warranty.

 

[QUOTE=8ByGoat;10730460]Frank

What about questions below?

So if I order the billet stall (3600) with a 2.5str will it perform like the Yank does?

I think the Yanks use a 2.1 STR?

 

[QUOTE=dondb;10732686]Dave Meyers said it was a 2.5

 

Could have been cutom made? Remember the higher the stall and STR the looser it will feel.

 

wouldn't it feel looser if it was a lower str?

 

Good question! I know the higher the stall the looser the car feels. I have heard that the closer to max efficiancy gives a tighter feel..which leads to a lower str, i think the stock is about 1.9 str. On the sticky thread in the beginning of Automatic Transmissions, i believe there is info by Yank saying the higher the str the tighter the feel? It would be good to get an explanation from one of the professionals from this site. Probably alot has to do with combinations of motor set up, gears and stall...above my head.

 

my performabuilt 3600 stall is fantastic. no problems and i've put a couple thousand miles on it. feels really tight and i almost forget its there except when i'm going up a hill in 30mph traffic (loud exhaust).

only issue: it is kind of a bitch on my tires - which i thought had good grip. looks like i'll be getting some r compound tires soon.

 

SOME INFORMATION COPIED FROM YANKS WEB SITE OF INTEREST CONCERNING STR
Stall Torque Ratio is one of the most misunderstood aspects of torque converter construction. Our competitors often call stall torque ratio: torque multiplier. The stall torque ratio is the amount of engine torque that the torque converter can multiply at a particular rpm level. By definition, stall torque ratio is when the turbine is at 0 RPMs and the converter is at maximum designed stall. This will produce a positive push on the turbine to increase the torque to the input shaft of the transmission, multiplied by the designed stall torque ratio of the torque converter. For example, a stall torque ratio of 2.0 would multiply 200 lb. ft. of engine torque to 400 lb. ft. of torque at the transmission input-shaft.
The misconception of stall torque ratio is that more must be better. This is not always the case. High stall torque ratio applications, typically are for industrial equipment or engines with limited low rpm engine torque. With high stall toque ratio converters, there are important trade-offs. What you take at one end you give up on the other. Typically, a torque converter with a very high stall torque ratio, such as 2.0-2.5, will be much less efficient above its rated stall speed. There is a sacrifice in higher rpm efficiency to achieve high stall torque ratios. That lower efficiency translates into less horsepower transmitted to the tires over an RPM range.

The problem with a high stall torque ratio converter is that it is only high while the car is not moving. Maximum stall torque ratio occurs at wide open throttle with no rotation of the transmission input shaft. As the input shaft starts to rotate with vehicle forward movement, the stall torque ratio will become non-existent much sooner than a converter of the same stall, with a lower stall torque ratio. A converter with a stall torque ratio of 2.2 for example, would display that at the starting line, but it would drop off much sooner than a converter with a lower stall torque ratio. See graph:



As you can see, the converter with the lower stall torque ratio will multiply torque for a longer period of time than the converter with a higher stall torque ratio. As most of you know, most racing occurs above 3,000 RPMs. That's why the lower stall torque ratio often wins the race:

*Lower stall torque ratio is gentler on the tires at the initial launch, but it will pull harder for the remaining 1,305 ft. of the 1/4 mile. Less races will be lost at the starting line from excessive wheelspin.
Lower stall torque ratio will be more efficient and transmit more torque and horsepower to the tires. This translates into lower ETs and higher trap speeds!

 

That was from YANKS website but heres one thing I have learned about "the feel loose-tight" it seems its like they say about beauty its in the eye of the beholder. I have seen two guys get in the same car and drive it and one say the converter feels loose and the other say just perfect and visa versa ,

 

Thanks Frank now I am even more confused LOL. When I get to work Monday I will copy and paste the email from Dave which he states the SS3600 has a STR of 2.5.

I know that the yank ss3600 is a "tight" converter and this is what I like since the car is my dd. You press the gas pedal and it moves-unlike when I had a tci unit you press the gas pedal and you sit at the red light. When I swapped converters from the TCI to the Yank my mpg instantly went up a little over 1mpg.

 

Ok thats cool like i said though its very relative but most people say our converters are very "tight"

 

I like tight for my driving! Thanks for the info Frank!

 

I have a Level 2 with a 3400 stall in my 89 firebird 383 HSR.....I lost some mph but i shaved half a second off of my ET....I think it was the fact that I have a STR of 2.1 mightve been better if i went with 1.9 The transmission is awesome and converter is my fault for wanting a high STR.