hey i was wondering if any body had any videos of their stalled car any stall speed doesnt matter i just want to see really what the difference is i found this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...led-video.html
but theres no video
Thanks

 

Just pull the trigger on a vig. 3600. i went from the stock stall to a 2,000 to a 2800 to a 3600. And i must tell ya, my 3600 is by far the best, still will get 23 mpg on highway with 3.73 gear.

The only video i have is with my 2800 stall at the track with bolt-ons, hope it helps.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zn9Refrimj8

car would have been .5 seconds slower if i did not have the stall

 

Oh after i installed a 224 cam, 3600 vig. the car went 11.5 @ 117 spinning

 

Ya thats sick that you luanch as good as the transbraked car is DD odd or do you just have to give the car a lil more gas to get it going?

 

From normal stop to stop the car does very well, acually my girlfriend has a stock auto 99 z with 3.23 gears.

her petal does seem more touchy when i drive it but that is just cause i am used to my car. I have the 3.73 gear so leaving from a stop is actually really easy, plus the trannys our cars have has a low 1st gear od 3.06 compared to the older car wit hth350 and th400 which have a 2.45 ratio.

Also keep in mind that when you buy a stall that is it about 20lbs lighter, so it will be easier on your tranny and driveline during shifts, plus it will rev quicker.

I bet you are trying to talk yourself into a stall but are unsure about street ability of one, I was in the same boat when i bought my car and the best advice i can give you is go big now (3,600 stall) you will never look back.

 

ha ha ya exactly im worried since my ss is my only car i was thinking a 3600 or even a 4400 or would that be over kill cam is in the future to but for now on the stock cam would it be to much?

 

Very good advise i have watched many car and truck owners go through the stages, 2600-2800 was nice...but the always want more, and seriously it seems the 3600-3800 is where people stop, at least with street driven cars.

When i get the chance its going to be ~3600

 

I wouldn't say the 4,000-4,400 would be over kill, but the down side would be that you would have the get traction everytime to take full advantage of the converter, you will have slightly more slippage up top, but if you go with a good size cam mid 230's .600 lift with a good set of heads, then this will be a killer combo.

I chose 3600 because i still do highway pulls with my m6 buddies and the 3600 still gives me good top end.

MOst converter companies have a free restall, so if you go with the 3600 and run it now you can get the feel of the car. Then later when you get a cam you can still make the choice to go bigger on the converter with simple shipping costs.

 

thanks man i think ill go with 3600 im on the streets more than the track its whack here in albuquerque. how does it compare to the m6's in roll races say in the dead zones like 40mph and in cherry spots 35 , 55 mph sorry for so many questions i just dont want to make a 800 dollar mistake you know

 

That video sucked anyway. After watching it originally, I thought I could make a better one, but now having a stall I realize that you wouldn't tell that much difference in a video.

If you don't go to the track, I'd say screw the stall. You're not gonna hook on the street with any stall, which just kills the advantage of an auto. Take the money and get a nitrous kit. That's just me though. I'm not about showing off, I'm about getting the job done.

A stall isn't gonna help you from a roll. True they are lighter than the stock one but at best they'll only come close to the efficiency of the stocker.

Most autos will lose MPH with a stall, they really only gain out of the hole. Now some may gain mph, but not much. Not worth what you're paying.


Now if you spend anytime at the track and have some drag radials. Get the biggest one you can get. Cause they're ******* awesome.

My car has a few bolt ons and a PT4000 and just ran a 7.5 in the 1/8 and I couldn't even leave hard without spinning. There are a lot of cars that don't run 7.50s with heads/cam. And I don't even have headers. I don't have any problems recommending a 4000 stall, it drives fine. It's not like driving a stock stall but you'll forget about that pretty fast. If you were to compare the same brand/style 3600 to a 4000 I really doubt you could tell much difference. It's not like that last little bit is gonna put it over the line. That said some 4000s probably drive better than other brand's 3600s.

As with any stall it's gonna be harder on the tranny so it's best to have a plan for that before doing a stall. And if you do much city driving make sure you have a good tranny cooler.

 

I have 2 suggestion for you.

"3C" should be about 3500 in your car or the "4C" would be about 3700. Either converter will lower your ET by at .5 or more. The 4C being a little higher will have better results. Both converters will be very street-able, with very little effect on the MPG's. They will also help from a roll because of the higher flash and better shift extensions. We offer free shipping to Tech members, 2 year warranty with an included stall change. A converter is a very important piece to the puzzle, be very picky and ask a lot of questions.

Here is a link to the converter I suggest.

http://www.circledspecialties.com/Co...Pages/LS1.html

Chris

 

im running a vigilante 3200 stall and it definitely feels like stock. after driving it for awhile u get used to it. but when u floor it, u definitely notice a huge difference. if u get a stall atleast a 3200. i went with a 3200 because my car will never see the track, and i wanted something that drives very close to stock.

 

well you get pretty used to anything after a while but the first time i drove mine at part throttle it didn't wanna move. i remember it feeling exactly like driving through mud. like you had the ebrake on halfway or something. half/full throttle and BAM you're moving. once you get used to it, you wont wanna go back.

 

i know what u mean man. like when im coming from a stop and i slow step on the gas, it seems exactly like that. thats why i didnt want to go with a very big verter. i wanted the most efficient daily driving converter. but once u drive it alot and get used to it, it does feel like stock. the only thing i hate is the shift kit...

 

Can't wait to have the Circle-D 3600 in hand so I can give feedback. Should rock!

 

when i was stock and my m6 buddt was stock he would pull 3 cars from a dead stop in the quarter.

we both go intake and exhaust and i got the 2800, i would holeshot 3 cars and stay there all the way to 130 before letting out.

now i have raced another m6 with head cam vs my head cam his 420ho to my 373 wih 3600 stall, went from a 10 roll and i pulled i car to 50, then it was even to 100mph and he would pull 2 cars on me to 130. his best quarter mile is 12.5 @ 118 mine is 11.5 @ 117 so you can see why we did the roll. He als o had afr heads to my ls6 heads and my 224 cam to his ms3 cam

 

About 6 years ago I put a vig 2800 and nittos on my bone stock WS6. 1st pass was a 12.82@102.4 mph with a 1.76 60'. Without the Vig (bonestock) I was running 13.4@102-103 with no tire spin.

Driveability was just like stock until I punched it

 

i've got a 3600, and damn it makes a world a difference.

good choice.

 

y do you hate the shift kit?

i am going to pick up the same converter with a th-350 and was going to put a kit with it

 

cuz it shifts hard and hurts the neck at times...