I just finished my H/C/I install and still need to get the car tuned. I have a 4K stall, but when I put it in "drive" still feels slugish through first. If I drop it down to "1" it feels so much better like it has 50 extra horsepower. Is this the differance between the converter being locked and unlocked? Sorry for the newbie ? but I've never really pushed an auto this far before. FYI I don't aways maual shift the car, but I have done it a few times to compare.

I want that through back in the seat feel that my old bolt-on M6 car had. It has 3.23 gears would 3.73's help with this?

 

Lock up does not oocur in 1rst gear. It comes in, from the factory, around 45mph under normal acceleration. Do you have a tuning devise? If so, does it have a scanner? I would like to know if you are in 1rst gear to start with. When you pull down to manual lo, the lo band will apply. This does not change how 1rst gear would feel. If you happen to be in 2nd, or 3rd, this will make the car feel sluggish, especially with 4000 stall. Do you have an engine light on the dash? This may indicate a DTC, (trouble code stored), and a fault code could put the trans into limp mode. Just a few things to look for. Can you get some more info? Thanks.

 

also the cam size will play a factor..


my setup includes 410s 4k stall full bolt ons PRCls6 heads ms4 cam FAST 9090
right at 425rwhp.. 7.0s in the 1/8

my car feels more sluggish than my buddies car

his setup includes 373s 3500 stall full bolt ons ported 5.3s f13 cam ls6 intake
383rwhp.. 7.5s in the 1/8


when you get on it, its easy to tell whose car is faster... but under normal driving conditions his car feels much faster and more impressive than mine..

im guessing with that size stall you built the rest of your car to be a monster above 4k rpms.. like gears, intake, cam, heads.. if you built it right, you wont feel a ton under normal driving, but rather a **** TON at WOT...

now if you want something to pull better in the lower rpms, like half throttle and what not... go with a ls6 cam 5.3s mid size cam 373s 3500 stall.. will "feel" much faster driving around town.. and will put you in your seat faster.. where as a car more like mine (geared for high rpms) wont put you in your seat until it starts churning some rpms.


o yea, plus one on the lockup.. your car should be locking up around 40-55 mph..

 

It did this before the cam also. I'm broke right now or I would have it tuned first too see if it takes care of it. The cam is a 228/228 operating range is 2800-6800, Intake is Vic jr. 3500-7500. I know the intake is screwing me some. In manual 1 it feels like the power comes in alot sooner closer to 3K and if I put it in drive and stomp it it feels like it comes in more at 4500. Before the the cam and intake the rpm range for both of these where about 1K lower. I don't have a scanner or tuning equipment so I have to wait for the tune. I just think take off should feel the same eighter way.

 

well the power should come on sooner with stock cam over your cam..

as far as it feeling different in D than in 1st.. i dont know... i dont think it is a problem..

just leave it in D and go.

 

Line Pressure in the trans should be higher when its manually in 1 (on some transmissions, not 100% on the 4L60E). Doesn't make the car faster or anything though, its just for towing and steep hills n stuff. Engineers wanted to make sure the clutch packs didn't slip under heavy load.

 

This makes since. It just feels more like the power the car should have for all that has been done to it. I'm going to try bigger gears, shift kit, and have my tuner increase the line pressure.

 

When ever you increase the power level of your car, you are "reengineering" the car. The rest of the driveline must "match" the system. You said you installed a H/C/I and did not change the gears, but have a 4000 stall converter. This would create a huge amount of slip, (and heat to the trans), which would feel "sluggish". You changed the power "range" from the stock setting from the factory, to your setting of "high performance". The rear end ratio must be brought into line to match the HP setting, so to speek. What H/C/I are you running, if you don't mind me asking. I can help, (over 30 years experience out of Detroit). My guess is, you'll need 3.73-4.10 to match at least the converter. Technically, your stall should be based on your cam @ .050". The LS line of engines seem to not follow the Old School Rules on this. You can pm me if you don't want you goods aired out in public. Your problem may not be such a problem but finishing the puzzle. Let me know.
PS, your shift kit can help, and do what it says. If not rebuilding, too big of holes to make the "firmer feel" can throw the timing off from the original frictions, (being loose from miles of driving). The tuner can make the feel better with the computer, with out too much line pressure.

 

I misread your original post and thought you said you HAD the car tuned. Get the engine crisp and I'll bet this will be part of the problem. The gears will also help immensly. With your set up you should feel "instant on" when all is said and done. Good luck.

 

You need a tune.

 

I had built the car for a turbo. That's why I was leaving the 3.23's in there.I should have the money Mon to get an intial tune done and I report back then. Thanks guys.

 

You might want to look into a tighter converter for a turbo application. The gears should work fine for a turbo.

 

I had to sell my turbo kit and go back NA. Damn bills

 

Everbody must have forgot the original question here Why does it feel better in manuel 1st than "D" This is because it is not taking off in first gear when it is in the Drive "D" position. It is either taking off in second or third gear. Put it in manual "2" and see if there is a change, if there is, then you are taking off in the third gear in drive, if not, then you are taking off in second gear in drive. This is most likely an electronic problem.