4l80e installed, then test drove it
#1
4l80e installed, then test drove it
finally got it all together, 4l80e with a man shift kit-it gets all the gears, and the lockup works good-the biggest problem is when i shift, the shifts are somewhat delayed-1st to 2nd isnt real bad, but 2nd to 3rd is delayed-3rd to
4th is pretty good
could the vacume mod be causing it-its hard to do a full power shift cause it just fries the tires
def not like a turbo 400 yet, not even close
is this normal-i was hoping for some pretty hard shifts, when i want them
4th is pretty good
could the vacume mod be causing it-its hard to do a full power shift cause it just fries the tires
def not like a turbo 400 yet, not even close
is this normal-i was hoping for some pretty hard shifts, when i want them
#2
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with a FMVB you shold be getting pretty firm shifts, Now you also have to remember even though you are manually moving the gears as opposed to the PCM doing it , There still would be a slight delay as it still takes time to fill the chambers for the clutch drums to apply the clutch set for a given gear.
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Never had that problem but I don't use Transgos 4l80 FMVB kit either. It should not vary to much from a 400, they are the same clutch drums/pistons in 2nd and 3rd.
#5
I had the same problem with mine. 1-2 was instant and firm, I could make a sandwich between the 2-3, 3-4 was instant. I'm hoping the trinity kit will work better. I was going to look into finding which drilled holes controlled 3rd and make them bigger. I don't even know if that's possible. I abandoned the transgo kit completely now. I'm either going with the trinity manual kit or buy a standalone.
#6
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Jim, how much clutch clearance did you have in the direct drum? Should be .050". Did you leave the center seal off the drum? What ring did the kit ask to leave off the center support? Did you shrink the solid rings on or use the scarf cut, (split rings)? Did you change the center support bushing? I've not seen the directions on that kit. Brian.
#7
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I've installed dozens of the TransGo kit and not had issue with the shifts being delayed. A couple of these cars are well into the 10's.
The Trinity kit is an excellent product.
TransGo saddled themselves with the ability to "dual feed" with nothing but VB mods. The Trinity kit requires trans disassembly to do this. (Nothing wrong with that IMO).
However i would use each kit in different applications. The Trinity kit requires either you use the PCM to control line pressure or have fixed line pressure, the TG kit is vacuum modulated.
The Trinity kit is an excellent product.
TransGo saddled themselves with the ability to "dual feed" with nothing but VB mods. The Trinity kit requires trans disassembly to do this. (Nothing wrong with that IMO).
However i would use each kit in different applications. The Trinity kit requires either you use the PCM to control line pressure or have fixed line pressure, the TG kit is vacuum modulated.
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#8
i used the transgo seal kit, split rings with spacers, so i wouldnt need to shrink the seals-i replaced all the bushings, and the clutch packs were all about in the middle of the rec clearances-it had molded pistons, so i couldnt leave out a seal
the converter was made for my future engine, but seems to stall pretty high now, seemed pretty hot after driving, but never paid much attention to them before
im going to have to get a gauge that reads high enough for line pressure
the exhaust was rubbing on the new x member i made, so gonna fix that because i thought that was a trans noise at first, one less thing running thru my mind while test driving-i might disc the vacume from the mod., see what happens-worse comes to worse, i can throw the old switch/pitch 400 back in
in about 3 hours, i kept all the old stuff, x member, lines, driveshaft, etc, then pull the trans apart-i can get a used 2004-2005 valve body for $200
(only paid $150 for the trans, lol) and start over
one thing i noticed was i wasnt building much boost, i'll have to ck that, maybe a hose pulled out while tilting the motor during trans install, or i just didnt hammer it enough
the converter was made for my future engine, but seems to stall pretty high now, seemed pretty hot after driving, but never paid much attention to them before
im going to have to get a gauge that reads high enough for line pressure
the exhaust was rubbing on the new x member i made, so gonna fix that because i thought that was a trans noise at first, one less thing running thru my mind while test driving-i might disc the vacume from the mod., see what happens-worse comes to worse, i can throw the old switch/pitch 400 back in
in about 3 hours, i kept all the old stuff, x member, lines, driveshaft, etc, then pull the trans apart-i can get a used 2004-2005 valve body for $200
(only paid $150 for the trans, lol) and start over
one thing i noticed was i wasnt building much boost, i'll have to ck that, maybe a hose pulled out while tilting the motor during trans install, or i just didnt hammer it enough
#9
Just for clairity. When I was saying delayed, I meant delayed from the time I shifted, to the time the trans actually shifted. The shift was nice and firm, once it actually happened.
Good luck. I'd like to see if you can find the problem, being as I had the same issue.
Good luck. I'd like to see if you can find the problem, being as I had the same issue.
#10
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I will check up here for a price on the 04-05 VB. That seems a little high. In your case the mod adjustment is usually only good for light throttle adjustment firmness, unless it controls the whole spectrum replacing the PCS. The direct drum has a pressed seal that can be removed with a "ladies foot". The other style has a lip seal, in case you decide to take it apart, again. If you think those rings aren't working good, I can send you my Kentmoore tools for the center support, pump, and shafts to use the solid rings. Also, there are 3 different center supprt bushings, was your kit marked as the late model? It should have a small hole added at one end, just checking. I would like to here this thing work good!
#12
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There is some adjustability to the vacuum modualted system also but not as easy as plugging in the laptop and changing it.
The main factor is the vehicle it is installed in and the intended usage.
If you are putting a 4L80E in a 1960s or 1970s musclecar (most of my customers) you don't have any existing electronic controls, so you wither put a standalone controller in it, or the full manual VB kit. If it is a street car, I would recommend maintaining some control of line pressure and not use a fixed line pressure setup like the Trinity. If it is a race car with very limited street time, go with the Trinity full manual kit and be done with it, save the $$ because you don't need the vacuum modulator.
If you have a LS conversion, or an LS car, why not just use the OEM controls and leave it automatic?
You can tune the transmission to shift as firm or at any point you want, no reason to dumb it down and lose the ability to use the trans as designed.
The main factor is the vehicle it is installed in and the intended usage.
If you are putting a 4L80E in a 1960s or 1970s musclecar (most of my customers) you don't have any existing electronic controls, so you wither put a standalone controller in it, or the full manual VB kit. If it is a street car, I would recommend maintaining some control of line pressure and not use a fixed line pressure setup like the Trinity. If it is a race car with very limited street time, go with the Trinity full manual kit and be done with it, save the $$ because you don't need the vacuum modulator.
If you have a LS conversion, or an LS car, why not just use the OEM controls and leave it automatic?
You can tune the transmission to shift as firm or at any point you want, no reason to dumb it down and lose the ability to use the trans as designed.
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Just for clairity. When I was saying delayed, I meant delayed from the time I shifted, to the time the trans actually shifted. The shift was nice and firm, once it actually happened.
Good luck. I'd like to see if you can find the problem, being as I had the same issue.
Good luck. I'd like to see if you can find the problem, being as I had the same issue.
I have been wondering if Trinity or Rossler FMVB kits would remedy this problem. Seeing as how two other guys are getting the same results with Transgo I am wondering if that is infact the reason. Also I'm not vacuum modulating my Transgo.
Trinity, what does your $100 plate kit do to the valve body other than make it full manual? What can I do for higher line pressure, firmer shifts, hold more power, etc. Will your kit do that? How about with the transbrake? If so I'll buy it, put it on my other valvebody and give everyone results in a few weeks. Hell I might even drive over to Rossler and buy/try his too.
-Dustin-
#14
Can you not use a vac mod with the trinity kit? I already have it from the transgo kit, but if I can use it, I may have to buy a standalone. Running full line pressure while just cruising, might not be so good.
The reason for the manual kit is its more fun to drive for me. I was M6 before, and I would buy a standalone before I converted the wiring harness, comp. to control the trans., just seems like more work. Obviously, if I had a a4 car originally, computer control would be a no brainer.
The reason for the manual kit is its more fun to drive for me. I was M6 before, and I would buy a standalone before I converted the wiring harness, comp. to control the trans., just seems like more work. Obviously, if I had a a4 car originally, computer control would be a no brainer.
#15
I double checked the transgo instructions, they do not have you remove any rings or remove the center seal from the direct drum. Maybe this could be the difference for making the kit work right.
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Can you not use a vac mod with the trinity kit? I already have it from the transgo kit, but if I can use it, I may have to buy a standalone. Running full line pressure while just cruising, might not be so good.
The reason for the manual kit is its more fun to drive for me. I was M6 before, and I would buy a standalone before I converted the wiring harness, comp. to control the trans., just seems like more work. Obviously, if I had a a4 car originally, computer control would be a no brainer.
The reason for the manual kit is its more fun to drive for me. I was M6 before, and I would buy a standalone before I converted the wiring harness, comp. to control the trans., just seems like more work. Obviously, if I had a a4 car originally, computer control would be a no brainer.
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I have this same thing. I was wondering if it was a valvebody problem, operator error, shift linkage, or tranmission problem. Perhaps it's the Transgo Stage 3 kit? The trans will hold the power perfectly at all RPM's but when I shifted I waited far too long for the shift to actually happen. Adjusting the shift linkage helped, but not much. My problem is if I shift anywhere over 6500 it's going to hit the rev limiter at 6800-6900, so I end up short shifting and running slower times.
I have been wondering if Trinity or Rossler FMVB kits would remedy this problem. Seeing as how two other guys are getting the same results with Transgo I am wondering if that is infact the reason. Also I'm not vacuum modulating my Transgo.
Trinity, what does your $100 plate kit do to the valve body other than make it full manual? What can I do for higher line pressure, firmer shifts, hold more power, etc. Will your kit do that? How about with the transbrake? If so I'll buy it, put it on my other valvebody and give everyone results in a few weeks. Hell I might even drive over to Rossler and buy/try his too.
-Dustin-
I have been wondering if Trinity or Rossler FMVB kits would remedy this problem. Seeing as how two other guys are getting the same results with Transgo I am wondering if that is infact the reason. Also I'm not vacuum modulating my Transgo.
Trinity, what does your $100 plate kit do to the valve body other than make it full manual? What can I do for higher line pressure, firmer shifts, hold more power, etc. Will your kit do that? How about with the transbrake? If so I'll buy it, put it on my other valvebody and give everyone results in a few weeks. Hell I might even drive over to Rossler and buy/try his too.
-Dustin-
#19
i posted another post about line pressure-i called transgo today, he didnt want to talk much untill i got setup for ck'ing pressure, so i ordered an $80 gauge for tomorrow, then i'll see what it is-he said it should shered the tires when i shift
i wonder if i got the tr kit, if i would have to replace all the pump mods i did-i'll give them a call
i took it out on the highway, def loved the o/d and lockup-the shift into4th is instant-strange some are having the same problem with the transgo kit, maybe something is missing on the pressure
i wonder if i got the tr kit, if i would have to replace all the pump mods i did-i'll give them a call
i took it out on the highway, def loved the o/d and lockup-the shift into4th is instant-strange some are having the same problem with the transgo kit, maybe something is missing on the pressure
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i posted another post about line pressure-i called transgo today, he didnt want to talk much untill i got setup for ck'ing pressure, so i ordered an $80 gauge for tomorrow, then i'll see what it is-he said it should shered the tires when i shift
i wonder if i got the tr kit, if i would have to replace all the pump mods i did-i'll give them a call
i took it out on the highway, def loved the o/d and lockup-the shift into4th is instant-strange some are having the same problem with the transgo kit, maybe something is missing on the pressure
i wonder if i got the tr kit, if i would have to replace all the pump mods i did-i'll give them a call
i took it out on the highway, def loved the o/d and lockup-the shift into4th is instant-strange some are having the same problem with the transgo kit, maybe something is missing on the pressure