Off the shelf stall VS Custom Stall
02-01-2009, 06:24 PM
#1
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Off the shelf stall VS Custom Stall Anyone think that it's more beneficial to have a stall built locally, then buying an off the shelf stall? If so who would you recommend locally (sacramento, ca.) area for a stall. With my setup below what size stall/STR would be more suitable for my setup and if I was to have one built what are somethings to request/look for?
2002 LS1 A4 4L60E
Hooker Ceramic coated LT's W/ ORY
Fast Toy 85mm Lid / SLP Bellows
SLP Ported 85mm MAF
ASP Underdrive
Free Mods
Ported/Polished TB
Stock 10 bolt w/ 373s
Ported LS6 oil pump
Futural F-14 232-234 .646-.612 112 lsa
TSP PRC Cam install kit
2 Flowtech Cut outs One on each side of the Y pipe
I have no plans on spraying. Going to keep it N/A for awhile. I do have plans later on to purchase a F.A.S.T. intake/TB setup.. Now I have read the FAQ stall converter thread but im still on the fence about my Converter since this car will still be my DD. horsepower numbers don't mean anything to me, im more concerned how my car runs at the track then it being a dyno queen.
2002 LS1 A4 4L60E
Hooker Ceramic coated LT's W/ ORY
Fast Toy 85mm Lid / SLP Bellows
SLP Ported 85mm MAF
ASP Underdrive
Free Mods
Ported/Polished TB
Stock 10 bolt w/ 373s
Ported LS6 oil pump
Futural F-14 232-234 .646-.612 112 lsa
TSP PRC Cam install kit
2 Flowtech Cut outs One on each side of the Y pipe
I have no plans on spraying. Going to keep it N/A for awhile. I do have plans later on to purchase a F.A.S.T. intake/TB setup.. Now I have read the FAQ stall converter thread but im still on the fence about my Converter since this car will still be my DD. horsepower numbers don't mean anything to me, im more concerned how my car runs at the track then it being a dyno queen.
Last edited by jpajkos; 02-01-2009 at 10:42 PM.
02-01-2009, 08:05 PM
#3
I'd go with someone who does a lot of cars like ours.
These types of shops have a big number of previous build ups, etc.
Comparing to a local shop, they could get you close, but a shop that deals with f-bodies can get you closer, if not right on what you want.
And if you want something like a billet front cover, you can forget about the local place, they're not going to have something like that.
These types of shops have a big number of previous build ups, etc.
Comparing to a local shop, they could get you close, but a shop that deals with f-bodies can get you closer, if not right on what you want.
And if you want something like a billet front cover, you can forget about the local place, they're not going to have something like that.
02-01-2009, 11:02 PM
#5
Do an advanced search here using Circle-D as the search criteria. There are a lot of comparisons between them and yank, etc.
I don't like rolling dice, thats why I'm reading a lot about all the converter companies.
02-02-2009, 07:26 AM
#6
We custom build stalls but are not local to you. We look at your current setup, future plans and how you use the car to come up with a combination that you will love. We have free shipping for tech members.
Looking over your specs I am thinking a 4C - 3600 stall. We could go a little higher or lower depending how much performance vs. drive-ability you want.
Please shoot me a PM or give em a call at the shop. I can go over the small details and get you some more info.
713-895-8834
Chris
Looking over your specs I am thinking a 4C - 3600 stall. We could go a little higher or lower depending how much performance vs. drive-ability you want.
Please shoot me a PM or give em a call at the shop. I can go over the small details and get you some more info.
713-895-8834
Chris
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02-02-2009, 01:48 PM
#8
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The thing about custom is, whether the combination
is well proven or a wild guess - how close to explicit
goals, how it does on things that were not spec'd,
how reliable in the long term.
I went custom because at the time, nobody I could
find had the kind of converter I wanted. And so far,
so good, though there's plenty of others who had
worse luck where I went.
It's one thing to have a mix-n-match, Stator A and
Turbine B and housing C, all fairly known elements
and maybe even run as a unit before. It's another
to have some local dude "try the stator from Mom's
4-banger minivan" or something, and hope it gives
you a roughly right STR, but you can only get a
wimp sprag to fit, or something.
I'd shop straight product first, then ask about a
modification to something close, and go full custom
only as a last resort and when you can afford to
be slightly (or very) wrong. Like a trailered race
car can afford more reliability risk than your one
and only daily driver, etc. And you were probably
going to have the motor out anyway.
is well proven or a wild guess - how close to explicit
goals, how it does on things that were not spec'd,
how reliable in the long term.
I went custom because at the time, nobody I could
find had the kind of converter I wanted. And so far,
so good, though there's plenty of others who had
worse luck where I went.
It's one thing to have a mix-n-match, Stator A and
Turbine B and housing C, all fairly known elements
and maybe even run as a unit before. It's another
to have some local dude "try the stator from Mom's
4-banger minivan" or something, and hope it gives
you a roughly right STR, but you can only get a
wimp sprag to fit, or something.
I'd shop straight product first, then ask about a
modification to something close, and go full custom
only as a last resort and when you can afford to
be slightly (or very) wrong. Like a trailered race
car can afford more reliability risk than your one
and only daily driver, etc. And you were probably
going to have the motor out anyway.
02-02-2009, 02:16 PM
#9
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The thing about custom is, whether the combination
is well proven or a wild guess - how close to explicit
goals, how it does on things that were not spec'd,
how reliable in the long term.
I went custom because at the time, nobody I could
find had the kind of converter I wanted. And so far,
so good, though there's plenty of others who had
worse luck where I went.
It's one thing to have a mix-n-match, Stator A and
Turbine B and housing C, all fairly known elements
and maybe even run as a unit before. It's another
to have some local dude "try the stator from Mom's
4-banger minivan" or something, and hope it gives
you a roughly right STR, but you can only get a
wimp sprag to fit, or something.
I'd shop straight product first, then ask about a
modification to something close, and go full custom
only as a last resort and when you can afford to
be slightly (or very) wrong. Like a trailered race
car can afford more reliability risk than your one
and only daily driver, etc. And you were probably
going to have the motor out anyway.
is well proven or a wild guess - how close to explicit
goals, how it does on things that were not spec'd,
how reliable in the long term.
I went custom because at the time, nobody I could
find had the kind of converter I wanted. And so far,
so good, though there's plenty of others who had
worse luck where I went.
It's one thing to have a mix-n-match, Stator A and
Turbine B and housing C, all fairly known elements
and maybe even run as a unit before. It's another
to have some local dude "try the stator from Mom's
4-banger minivan" or something, and hope it gives
you a roughly right STR, but you can only get a
wimp sprag to fit, or something.
I'd shop straight product first, then ask about a
modification to something close, and go full custom
only as a last resort and when you can afford to
be slightly (or very) wrong. Like a trailered race
car can afford more reliability risk than your one
and only daily driver, etc. And you were probably
going to have the motor out anyway.
It's not really a money issue. I have no ambition one day to have a "track car" I was just trying to find out what way would be more beneficial. I will call a few of these guys and hash it out with them.
02-02-2009, 05:37 PM
#10
We are a custom converter builder who caters to the racing industry and have brought that technology to the LS market. We build each converter per the customers plans for the car and current combination. Things you should look for are billet piston,billet cover,fully furnace brazed and tig welded fins,Heavy duty sprague,Chrome moly impeller,hub,computer balanced,leak checked,PERFORMANCE, and most important of all warranty. We supply all of this at a competitive price.
Greg
Greg
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
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1-866-726-8358
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FTI Converter build sheet
FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
info@ftiperformance.com
FTIPerformance.com
FTI Converter build sheet
02-02-2009, 05:55 PM
#11
If staying NA, do yourself a big favor and try out a Yank PT series converter. They're designed for NA applications and offer awesome performance, both at the track and on the street. I run the PT4400 and couldn't be happier. Give them a call...their customer service is excellent and their product is top notch!
