F**K prothane tranny mounts!!!
07-28-2010, 12:46 PM
#82
TECH Apprentice
Hello, anybody have some input or solutions for this?
I had the following done and now have unusual vibrations and noise. I understand using a poly tranny mount can do this from reading this thread.
However, I think the mechanic may have screwed up the pinion angle.
In the process of an inspection the garage told me the lower rear control arm bushings needed to be replaced and I asked them to check the tranny mount.
The tranny rubber mount was broke. I purchased the Prothane Kit 7-227 for the control arms and a separate Poly tranny mount.
When he was installing the front lower control arm bushings the mechanic said the 1 of the bushings was different than what was on the car. He said the car had 1 bushing in it and the kit had a 2 piece bushing to use. 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. Maybe it was the lower front bushing he was referring to.
He changed those lower control arm bushings on both sides, the front stabilizer links (moog blue poly)and changed the tranny mount. Now it over steers and the steering wheel doesn’t come back to center by itself like it use to. He told me I need an alignment now. I also had him change the pinion seal since there was some evidence of a leak allthough I never saw anything on the ground from it.
I have read about changing the pinion seal with the mention of marking the nut and counting the threads to unscrew the nut and using the same number of threads to put it back on. I found this information after he did it so I was not able to tell him when he did it.
If he didn't do it that way does that affect the pinion angle? How can I tell if the pinion angle is correct? I want to check the pinion angle and try it with the poly trans mount before I revert back to a rubber mount.
What is the best rubber mount if I need to go back to that?
All reccommendations are much appreciated.
Thanks
I had the following done and now have unusual vibrations and noise. I understand using a poly tranny mount can do this from reading this thread.
However, I think the mechanic may have screwed up the pinion angle.
In the process of an inspection the garage told me the lower rear control arm bushings needed to be replaced and I asked them to check the tranny mount.
The tranny rubber mount was broke. I purchased the Prothane Kit 7-227 for the control arms and a separate Poly tranny mount.
When he was installing the front lower control arm bushings the mechanic said the 1 of the bushings was different than what was on the car. He said the car had 1 bushing in it and the kit had a 2 piece bushing to use. 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. Maybe it was the lower front bushing he was referring to.
He changed those lower control arm bushings on both sides, the front stabilizer links (moog blue poly)and changed the tranny mount. Now it over steers and the steering wheel doesn’t come back to center by itself like it use to. He told me I need an alignment now. I also had him change the pinion seal since there was some evidence of a leak allthough I never saw anything on the ground from it.
I have read about changing the pinion seal with the mention of marking the nut and counting the threads to unscrew the nut and using the same number of threads to put it back on. I found this information after he did it so I was not able to tell him when he did it.
If he didn't do it that way does that affect the pinion angle? How can I tell if the pinion angle is correct? I want to check the pinion angle and try it with the poly trans mount before I revert back to a rubber mount.
What is the best rubber mount if I need to go back to that?
All reccommendations are much appreciated.
Thanks
Get the rubber job, 94-97 Firebird mount from Napa or O'reilly's like the OP says.
07-29-2010, 05:43 PM
#83
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Well I called the garage that did this and they wanted to look at everything.
At the garage I was standing there watching the mechanic as he looked around underneath the car put it in drive on the lift and we could hear the whining from the rear end. He then raised the car further and used a thesascope and tried to find the noise. He said the rear end (pumpkin) sounded fine which goes against his later evaluation of maybe there is a bad Pinion bearing.(see below) After he dropped the drive shaft, didn't actually pull it out, left it hanging from the tranny. Then grabbed the impact gun and whipped the pinion bolt off. He didn't mark the nut or count the threads. I walked over to him and said that is supposed to be done a certain way. I mentioned pinion load and the nut should be marked and the number of threads counted. The look on his face was that of how do you know that or **** I didn't know that.
Then him, the owner & office guy disappear for a meeting. He comes back and tells me one of the pinion bearings must be screwed up and he puts the pinion and drive shaft yoke back on the pinion shaft grabs the impact gun and puts the pinion nut back on. He then lowered the car, started it and out it in gear and the whining was less. Probably because he didn't tighten the nut the same as before. But the
crush sleeve has been collapsed from where it was originally after the first time he over tightened the pinion nut.
The office guy tells me it would be 485.00 for them to fix it. I had them dead to rights that they screwed it up. They know it & know I know it.. I wouldn't let them rebuild the axle if my life depended on it not yet pay them to do it. They spent almost 1 1/2 hours on the car checking it out and said no charge on that in the end.
I called the local Chevrolet dealer and asked them if there was a specific procedure to change the pinion seal according to their factory manuals and he said it had to be torqued to a specific torque(27ft.lb.). I asked what if someone did it with a impact gun. He said they would just be guessing as to the torque needed. He also said I could look at the manual and get copies of what I needed. I went there and they printed everything out on how to change the pinion seal. In our conversation they said if the rear end was whining it had been tightened to much. They also were concerned it might have screwed up the gears in the differential.
The dealer said they would pull the differential cover and do a diagnostic on it so I would know if the gears were screwed up or anything visible there and it would be documented as to any problems. Of course that is a 92.00 fee. Now I won't drive it.
At the garage I was standing there watching the mechanic as he looked around underneath the car put it in drive on the lift and we could hear the whining from the rear end. He then raised the car further and used a thesascope and tried to find the noise. He said the rear end (pumpkin) sounded fine which goes against his later evaluation of maybe there is a bad Pinion bearing.(see below) After he dropped the drive shaft, didn't actually pull it out, left it hanging from the tranny. Then grabbed the impact gun and whipped the pinion bolt off. He didn't mark the nut or count the threads. I walked over to him and said that is supposed to be done a certain way. I mentioned pinion load and the nut should be marked and the number of threads counted. The look on his face was that of how do you know that or **** I didn't know that.
Then him, the owner & office guy disappear for a meeting. He comes back and tells me one of the pinion bearings must be screwed up and he puts the pinion and drive shaft yoke back on the pinion shaft grabs the impact gun and puts the pinion nut back on. He then lowered the car, started it and out it in gear and the whining was less. Probably because he didn't tighten the nut the same as before. But the
crush sleeve has been collapsed from where it was originally after the first time he over tightened the pinion nut.
The office guy tells me it would be 485.00 for them to fix it. I had them dead to rights that they screwed it up. They know it & know I know it.. I wouldn't let them rebuild the axle if my life depended on it not yet pay them to do it. They spent almost 1 1/2 hours on the car checking it out and said no charge on that in the end.
I called the local Chevrolet dealer and asked them if there was a specific procedure to change the pinion seal according to their factory manuals and he said it had to be torqued to a specific torque(27ft.lb.). I asked what if someone did it with a impact gun. He said they would just be guessing as to the torque needed. He also said I could look at the manual and get copies of what I needed. I went there and they printed everything out on how to change the pinion seal. In our conversation they said if the rear end was whining it had been tightened to much. They also were concerned it might have screwed up the gears in the differential.
The dealer said they would pull the differential cover and do a diagnostic on it so I would know if the gears were screwed up or anything visible there and it would be documented as to any problems. Of course that is a 92.00 fee. Now I won't drive it.
Last edited by DataCom; 07-29-2010 at 09:25 PM.
09-04-2010, 08:06 PM
#85
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Pinion and/or driveline angles can have a profound effect on vibration. There is so much misinformation floating around in this thread. I will state it again, MOUNTS do not cause vibration. Rubber mounts ISOLATE the body from whatever driveline vibrations exist in the car. The only way a mount could contribute to a vibration problem is if they in some way reorient the transmission and change the driveline angles in some way.
Thanks,
Shane
Thanks,
Shane
the fix to everyones problems is REALLY simple. solid motor mounts, stock rubber mount.
09-04-2010, 08:10 PM
#86
I've got an energy suspension mount and it is glass smooth 70+.... (I do have an apparent issue with 3rd gear at this time... but that has nothing to do with the mount!)
09-18-2010, 05:13 PM
#87
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...060016+5999999
and
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50060+2060012
Which one did the OP purchase? I'm assuming the one for 16.49 since he said "$21"
06-13-2011, 01:28 AM
#90
Staging Lane
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Thanks ws666! too bad i bearly got to read this now i should have dne my reseach 
.. me & my buddy just got our tranny mouths(prothrane) done today & we were both divistated with the results... we're going back to oem asap!
.. me & my buddy just got our tranny mouths(prothrane) done today & we were both divistated with the results... we're going back to oem asap!
07-29-2011, 02:08 PM
#91
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Ive got energy suspension poly motor, trans, and full body bushings and I dont have any over the top vibration. mines a t56 by the way
08-15-2015, 11:48 PM
#92
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Came across this thread, seemingly a little late
Am a sympathizer with the title "F**K prothane tranny mounts" , they made the car feel and sound like it was going to fall apart !
Replaced with new, OEM bushing and things could not have been better.
$0.02, down the drain
Am a sympathizer with the title "F**K prothane tranny mounts" , they made the car feel and sound like it was going to fall apart !
Replaced with new, OEM bushing and things could not have been better.
$0.02, down the drain
