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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 04:36 PM
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3200 Stall, Stock Tranny....1-2 shifts fine, 2-3 a little higher in the rpms to shift, but it does....THEN In the deceleration after it shifts into 3rd....VIBRATIONS..Big..Rattles the whole car...All the way to the rear end you can hear it..Like a earthquake

I thought it was my shift solenoids so i changed both the 1-2 and 2-3..But nothing..


ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED..Im A Senior in College and i need to have my car so i can finally leave this godforsaken place called College..Its My DD
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 04:43 PM
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Converter could be remaining locked. A vibration would not be caused by shift solenoids
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
Converter could be remaining locked. A vibration would not be caused by shift solenoids
Ok..So how may i go about fixing that?...And would it sound like my 3-4 Bands (or what not), are going out
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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Well I would see if its being comanded to unlock first with a scanner or data log, If the bands or 3-4 clutch were dying you would notice that on the upshift not the downshift during decel
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by performabuilt
Well I would see if its being comanded to unlock first with a scanner or data log, If the bands or 3-4 clutch were dying you would notice that on the upshift not the downshift during decel
Im not too keen on how to use scanners and or data logs..Are we talking odb2 scanners or like hp Tuners?...

Also noted, when in 3rd if you get on the gas, you wont feel the vibrations.It will decel fine and then you get off of the gas and let it decel by itself, you can feel the heavy vibrations again..

Could you please explain, how to check if it is locking or or what not?
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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With stock tuning it's set to lock up in 3rd which is too low an rpm with most aftermarket converters because of the clutch material. It'll chatter. Especially if you use a non dampened tcc.
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.

To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.

What brand converter is it?
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
With stock tuning it's set to lock up in 3rd which is too low an rpm with most aftermarket converters because of the clutch material. It'll chatter. Especially if you use a non dampened tcc.
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.

To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.

What brand converter is it?
I honestly dont know what type of converter it is..I bought the car locally for sale..I had it since Sept 08..Never really did it until late nov 08..With all theses mods (3200 Stall. 4.10), the guy didnt have a tranny cooler installed..I just dont get people..
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Old Mar 1, 2009 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
With stock tuning it's set to lock up in 3rd which is too low an rpm with most aftermarket converters because of the clutch material. It'll chatter. Especially if you use a non dampened tcc.
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.

To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.

What brand converter is it?
So to re-tune is it..Do i need a ful blown tune...Or is it something i can plug and play?
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 10:20 AM
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Anyone?
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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I don't know about the plug and play, I was stupid and jumped the gun with a brand new laptop and hp tuners.
That was about $1500 four years ago. I'm sure you can get the lock out turned off in 3rd after you verify that it is your problem. Shouldn't cost much.
You might even find a local guy with a tuner to do it for you, I've done that a few times.
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
I don't know about the plug and play, I was stupid and jumped the gun with a brand new laptop and hp tuners.
That was about $1500 four years ago. I'm sure you can get the lock out turned off in 3rd after you verify that it is your problem. Shouldn't cost much.
You might even find a local guy with a tuner to do it for you, I've done that a few times.
Ok..Now i need a scanner to verify that right?...Or do i have to drop the tranny..
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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Assuming you're feeling lockup in 3rd, and you want to turn it off so it will not lock up in third all it takes is maybe 10 minutes with the correct tuning equipment.

It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)

Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.

Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
Assuming you're feeling lockup in 3rd, and you want to turn it off so it will not lock up in third all it takes is maybe 10 minutes with the correct tuning equipment.

It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)

Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.

Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
ok will do..ill let u know how it goes.
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
Assuming you're feeling lockup in 3rd, and you want to turn it off so it will not lock up in third all it takes is maybe 10 minutes with the correct tuning equipment.

It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)

Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.

Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
Ok..I did what you said and it is the converter..i gently applied pressure to the brakes and the vibration went completley away!!!..THANKS!!!!...Now if i tune it not to lock up in 3rd, then when do i tune it to lock up?..it has to at some point?..
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by nalmak
Ok..I did what you said and it is the converter..i gently applied pressure to the brakes and the vibration went completley away!!!..THANKS!!!!...Now if i tune it not to lock up in 3rd, then when do i tune it to lock up?..it has to at some point?..
4th gear

Example:

Attached Thumbnails What is the problem?-1.jpg  

Last edited by CoolAid; Mar 2, 2009 at 06:22 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CoolAid
4th gear

Example:

What am i looking at?..
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