What is the problem?
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What is the problem? 3200 Stall, Stock Tranny....1-2 shifts fine, 2-3 a little higher in the rpms to shift, but it does....THEN In the deceleration after it shifts into 3rd....VIBRATIONS..Big..Rattles the whole car...All the way to the rear end you can hear it..Like a earthquake
I thought it was my shift solenoids so i changed both the 1-2 and 2-3..But nothing..
ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED..Im A Senior in College and i need to have my car so i can finally leave this godforsaken place called College..Its My DD
I thought it was my shift solenoids so i changed both the 1-2 and 2-3..But nothing..
ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED..Im A Senior in College and i need to have my car so i can finally leave this godforsaken place called College..Its My DD
Converter could be remaining locked. A vibration would not be caused by shift solenoids
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Well I would see if its being comanded to unlock first with a scanner or data log, If the bands or 3-4 clutch were dying you would notice that on the upshift not the downshift during decel
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Also noted, when in 3rd if you get on the gas, you wont feel the vibrations.It will decel fine and then you get off of the gas and let it decel by itself, you can feel the heavy vibrations again..
Could you please explain, how to check if it is locking or or what not?
With stock tuning it's set to lock up in 3rd which is too low an rpm with most aftermarket converters because of the clutch material. It'll chatter. Especially if you use a non dampened tcc.
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.
To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.
What brand converter is it?
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.
To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.
What brand converter is it?
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With stock tuning it's set to lock up in 3rd which is too low an rpm with most aftermarket converters because of the clutch material. It'll chatter. Especially if you use a non dampened tcc.
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.
To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.
What brand converter is it?
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.
To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.
What brand converter is it?
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With stock tuning it's set to lock up in 3rd which is too low an rpm with most aftermarket converters because of the clutch material. It'll chatter. Especially if you use a non dampened tcc.
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.
To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.
What brand converter is it?
You get on the gas and it goes away, because it unlocked.
To keep the converter unlocked (for testing obviously) just set your foot on the brake pedal enough to activate the switch.
What brand converter is it?
I don't know about the plug and play, I was stupid and jumped the gun with a brand new laptop and hp tuners.
That was about $1500 four years ago. I'm sure you can get the lock out turned off in 3rd after you verify that it is your problem. Shouldn't cost much.
You might even find a local guy with a tuner to do it for you, I've done that a few times.
That was about $1500 four years ago. I'm sure you can get the lock out turned off in 3rd after you verify that it is your problem. Shouldn't cost much.
You might even find a local guy with a tuner to do it for you, I've done that a few times.
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I don't know about the plug and play, I was stupid and jumped the gun with a brand new laptop and hp tuners.
That was about $1500 four years ago. I'm sure you can get the lock out turned off in 3rd after you verify that it is your problem. Shouldn't cost much.
You might even find a local guy with a tuner to do it for you, I've done that a few times.
That was about $1500 four years ago. I'm sure you can get the lock out turned off in 3rd after you verify that it is your problem. Shouldn't cost much.
You might even find a local guy with a tuner to do it for you, I've done that a few times.
Assuming you're feeling lockup in 3rd, and you want to turn it off so it will not lock up in third all it takes is maybe 10 minutes with the correct tuning equipment.
It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)
Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.
Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)
Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.
Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
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Assuming you're feeling lockup in 3rd, and you want to turn it off so it will not lock up in third all it takes is maybe 10 minutes with the correct tuning equipment.
It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)
Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.
Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)
Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.
Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
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From: Riverside/Los Angeles, Ca
Assuming you're feeling lockup in 3rd, and you want to turn it off so it will not lock up in third all it takes is maybe 10 minutes with the correct tuning equipment.
It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)
Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.
Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
It's up to you to find out who can do this in your area. Scanner is really not the word, just saying so you're not asking people for a scanner. You need something, or a shop that can reprogram things in the engine computer (also called ECM, VCM, PCM)
Looking back at the posts above I originally told you how to prevent it from locking up.
I still feel you need to better diagnose the problem before you have the tune reprogrammed.
Back to what I said originally try driving it and duplicating the problem. Then do the same thing with your foot on the brake just enough to activate the lights and not apply the brakes.
If the problem goes away then it may be a lock up issue. If it doesn't change anything, you might have another problem.
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